80 series front axle leaking after rebuild

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S

Stecz

10 Year
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Nov 13, 2013
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31
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I just rebuild the front axle on my '97 LX450 due to the passenger side leaking pretty badly. I did the full rebuild, but unfortunately used the heavy duty inner axle seals, now a little over 4k miles later, the driver's side is leaking grease thinned by gear lube. (pretty thick,but smells like gear lube).

So, I'm assuming that the inner axle seal is not sealing any longer.

I did check the axle when I did the rebuild and didn't feel a groove where the seal is. It also wasn't leaking before the rebuild, so I'm assuming the axle can seal.

My plan is to disassemble the hub and remove the axle and CV without removing the knuckle. So, I think I will need, the OEM inner seal and the two bigger gaskets and then the gasket for the hub. (I'll also need grease for the CV).

I was not going to replace the felt/rubber wipers on the back of the knuckle, since they are brand new and not causing the leak.

Does my plan sound ok? Anything else I should consider re-doing?

John S.
1997 LX450
 
You're going to have difficulty getting the inner seal out if you don't do a full tear-down (the angle gets weird if you have the knuckle housing still in the way). It's doable with either the right tool or the right approach - you may find turning the wheel lock-to-lock allows you a good enough angle to get the old seal out.

Don't worry about the rear wipers.

Might as well repack the bearings, but to do the inner you need a new inner oil seal on the hub.
 
Your plan sounds good to me. No need to take knuckle off. I just carefully get the seal out with hammer, screwdriver and seal puller. Its not ideal but gets the job done without any damage. You don't plan on keeping the old seal so it doesn't have to look pretty coming out. Oh and use Mr. T seals.
 
Did you happen to use a Marlin inner seal? They don't jive well w/the full-time 4wd.
 
Hmmm... I just looked at the description of the kit from the vendor I bought it from and it says OEM, but I'm almost positive that when I bought the kit, it said they were the heavy-duty Marlin seals. So maybe this is simply a screw-up of mine. Either way, I need to redo it.

since I've had gear lube running through the hub... I guess I should repack the bearings... I'll get that inner bearing seal also...

Thanks for the input. I figure that if I leave the knuckle on, this should only take an hour or so for the one side. I'll wait to do the other side until it needs it.
 
I heard the same thing about the Marlin HD seals and full time 4WD. I will be going through this shortly and I ended up purchasing the OEM seal.
 
Marlins leak. They are meant for part time conversions.
 
Before you do anything make sure the diff breather is clear.
Remove the hose from diff and blow clear, remove diff fitting and blow clear.
If there is a gush of air at any time you are on the right track.
Check the rear while you are at it.
 
Just FYI there are times when you put everything back just as it should and use all OEM parts, and it will still leak.

That's what i just saw yesterday on mine. Kind of disappointing.... i swapped out marlin seals for OEM (since the Marlin's were leaking) and now the OEM seals are leaking..... dammit!
 
thanks on the diff breather. I'll check that before I buy parts. My assumption is that if I can tell there is a blockage (before I blow it out), then that might be the issue and I should get the breather cleared and then see if the leakage stops before I move on. and possibly top up the grease in the CV.

correct?
 
The other replies got it right. I also used the Marlins and leaked after about 50 miles.
I would also reccomend just extending you front diff breather line to the engine bay while your at it. Then you will be one step close to being set up for water crossings...
It's also peace of mind that the breather won't be clogged bc you will have new 1/4 inch fuel line. They also have diff breather end caps that let it breathe but keep stuff out at most auto parts stores. You should be good with 10-12 feet of fuel line depending on where you route it (it's ok if it's low pressure and make sure it ain't touching anything hot)... Correct me if I'm wrong on the length guys...
But remember it's better to have it to long and cut it then put two lines together...
I would just be a man, bite the bullet, and brake it down all the way for peace of mind.
And deff use Mr. T seals!
Oh and make sure you replace the inner seal on the other side with OEM while your at it bc it's only a matter of time b4 the other marlin leaks.. And you deff don't want to replace diff fluid twice...
Good luck sir!
 
I checked the breather and it's clear, both the hose and fitting. (I removed it from the axle and blew that out also) There was not any blockage to start with.

So, I'm going to buy the stuff to replace the inner axle seal. (including repacking the brand new bearings). I'm not going to remove the knuckle if I can get away with it.

Where do I get Mr T seals from? does everyone mean MRT? I was going to use OEM.

I was planning on buying the stuff to do both sides, but not necessarily doing them both at the same time.

Regarding replacing the gear lube... I wasn't planning on replacing the gear lube. I was expecting that grease wasn't going into the axle housing.

Running the breathers up into the engine compartment sounds good. I'll do that as well.
 
Mr. Toyota..... Sam or Beno have them.

Concrete Jungle. What do the knuckle balls looks like?? Is it leaky thin oil. I always think mine leak but really its just the grease passing through the wiper. I just wipe it off every now and then. A diff oil leak is usually very thin and makes it way off the knuckle ball. I have come to the conclusion if it still on the knuckle ball BUT wet with grease it's ok.
 
Cruiser Outfitters has the OEM kit at a good price.
 
This is dripping and it smells like gear lube (does the grease have that same smell). I would say it's definitely grease being washed out by gear lube. It's making a mess on the back of the tire and leaving drip marks when I park it.

While I was underneath checking the breather, I also noticed some red from the bearing grease being washed out... I guess I should repack the trunion bearings also... Crap. I really didn't want to remove the knuckle.
 
mine is just leaking from one of the knuckle studs.... not trying to hijack here, sorry!

I kind of have a suspicion that my air locker... at least the o-ring for the airline that actuates the locker, is maybe leaking and pressurizing the diff.
 
Good day . I'm hoping I can find a solution to my problem. I recently changed out all seals on my swivel balls and front axles on me HDJ81. However after any long run the oil level in the balls are lower and it seems to be making its way into the differential.
We used all original seals .
 
Seems we are all going through this my marlins started leaking within a couple thousand miles new axles went in at the same time so I new that was not the problem. Put in new OEM they are holding good now.
 
CappiD said:
Good day . I'm hoping I can find a solution to my problem. I recently changed out all seals on my swivel balls and front axles on me HDJ81. However after any long run the oil level in the balls are lower and it seems to be making its way into the differential.
We used all original seals .
Click to expand...

The knuckles should have moly grease, not oil. Check the breather, better yet, convert to free flowing, using some 1/4" hose and a small fuel filter.
 
Tools R Us said:
The knuckles should have moly grease, not oil. Check the breather, better yet, convert to free flowing, using some 1/4" hose and a small fuel filter.
Click to expand...

That's official from Toyota or is that the work around ?
I did check the breather and it was dirty but not clogged. I will be installing some ARB breathers soon also.
 
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