ARCHIVE 80 Series D-Pillar Mount

[NLXTACY]

Things ARE moving along. Went through a ton of changes based on the feedback. I'm going back to making the protos in my garage because I just simply can't afford the cost of having one-offs being machined and CNC bent. I don't want to charge a lot for these so I'm going old school with prototyping.

I'm also in the middle of modifying the PowerPanel to work in the suggestions I have received so far.

 

[LS1FJ40]

I'm going to keep waiting to pick up my 80 from your house until you have these done. So I can save on shipping.

So hurry up already!

 

[Dissent]

I've been furiously wiring my truck and with this bracket in mind, it would finish off my switch placement in the rear quite nicely. A couple of design considerations for you:

1. Would you accommodate a model with switch knockouts to accommodate OEM or Contura switches? I've found the OEM switches fit pretty well in my Contura 6-switch insert for my aluminum dashboard and that would open up options for those using both/either switch style.

2. Are you considering using the 1" hole just below the panel where this is to be mounted to enter the side wall area? I'm trying to determine where the wiring will penetrate the wall to plan accordingly. All my stuff is on the passenger wall.

Keep up the good work of bringing my napkin sketch concepts to life!

 

[NLXTACY]

Ok well I think I've gotten 4 too many PMs about the inverter cable I put together. I'm just going to go ahead and make them available now. Folks seem to want to just cut a small square in a panel and mount the extension cable. My only concern is that SOMEWHERE near this plug you need to put 15A MAX. Anyway here it is:

Inverter Extension Cable for D-Pillar Mount, 6ft.

 

[NLXTACY]

I've been furiously wiring my truck and with this bracket in mind, it would finish off my switch placement in the rear quite nicely.

Cool

A couple of design considerations for you:

1. Would you accommodate a model with switch knockouts to accommodate OEM or Contura switches? I've found the OEM switches fit pretty well in my Contura 6-switch insert for my aluminum dashboard and that would open up options for those using both/either switch style.

It would have to be a different setup. The problem with the OEM switches is that they need two tabs on the back to keep them mounted flush. I won't be adding those but you could easily with some 90º bent 22 gauge steel tabs and some jb weld.

2. Are you considering using the 1" hole just below the panel where this is to be mounted to enter the side wall area? I'm trying to determine where the wiring will penetrate the wall to plan accordingly. All my stuff is on the passenger wall.

The entire bottom will be open but MOST LIKELY the plastic panel on the D-Pillar will need to be removed. There is some access there as well.

 

[Qball]

Quit talking about and just make it already, I'll thoroughly test it out for you!

 

[Dissent]

Cool. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[NLXTACY]

Quit talking about and just make it already, I'll thoroughly test it out for you!

Yeah yeah yeah. I need to pick up some 22g tomorrow to do another mock up

 

[NLXTACY]

Getting the details dialed in. Trying to decide on the mounting hardware for the accessory panels. May not seem like much but it's a big deal in the long run.

 

[NLXTACY]

Finally decided on the thumbscrews for the skinny panels. These are captive, spring-loaded thumbscrews. They are similar to what you would see in the computer/networking world. These are JUST for the sign panel or the power panel. These are not for the large main panel.

 

[NLXTACY]

Also made another little changes and will be cutting up some metal again to make any further adjustments before I pop out a prototype.

 

[canman]

How are those nuts held in place? Back in the day we tried them and found them to come loose especially if you tried to install them after powdercoat, so we went with rivnuts instread. Application was more severe though, so could be a good solution here, just curious.

 

[canman]

Also good to see how your're progressing. At the company I worked at many moons ago, when I started they were 30 people, and only had one very small CNC punch, and manual hydraulic press brakse. Within a few years they had large CNC punch presses, and today they are over 1000 people. Keep up the good work.

 

[Dissent]

Looking forward to seeing this come to fruition.

 

[NLXTACY]

How are those nuts held in place? Back in the day we tried them and found them to come loose especially if you tried to install them after powdercoat, so we went with rivnuts instread. Application was more severe though, so could be a good solution here, just curious.

PEM nuts so arbor press. For the application it's overkill.

 

[NLXTACY]

Also good to see how your're progressing. At the company I worked at many moons ago, when I started they were 30 people, and only had one very small CNC punch, and manual hydraulic press brakse. Within a few years they had large CNC punch presses, and today they are over 1000 people. Keep up the good work.

That was my last company in the film industry. By the time we sold the company we had 660 products developed, been involved in about 50 3D movies, 50 employees, 22 Haas 3-axis CNCs...

 

[LS1FJ40]

Done yet?

 

[NLXTACY]

Looking forward to seeing this come to fruition.

It is. I just need to finalize the mount and it's go time!

Which brings me to the question of the day...

Would anyone have a problem installing a rivnut in the D-Pillar? This means drling a hole and installing the nut. The DPM MUST have three points of contact in order to be secure. There is just no way around it.

 

[NLXTACY]

Done yet?

Why didn't you take the proto while you were here?!

 

[LS1FJ40]

Why didn't you take the proto while you were here?!

You didn't offer! I've asked at least 20 times!