80 series best bolt on hitch
- Thread starter pavell
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IMHO, if you can find a clean stock hitch they are the best fit. I replaced my rusty stock hitch with a curt which is solid but the receiver sticks out 4 inches right at knee cap height. However, It does give you another spot to step up on when loading anything on the roof.
When you remove the old hitch, use lots of penetrating oil, a torch to heat up the bolt and an impact wrench. Take your time, try turning the bolt back and forth to loosen it up. I have removed hitches from two different 80’s and the first I got impatient and broke off 2 bolt heads. Not fun to fish out the bolt without a head.
Nothin fits like factory as they say. US market 80 series had an optional hitch that fits the best.
OEM or don't bother. That's my opinion. Just take your time and find a factory one. It's worth it.
Many folks on here want to get rid of them.
I bought a used "factory" one after my original one rusted out. I recently took it back off, sandblasted it to near white, then 4 coats of bonding epoxy primer and 3 coats of gloss black epoxy. Let it cure 12 hours between each coat and let it cure for 2 weeks prior to installing it.
I bought a used "factory" one after my original one rusted out. I recently took it back off, sandblasted it to near white, then 4 coats of bonding epoxy primer and 3 coats of gloss black epoxy. Let it cure 12 hours between each coat and let it cure for 2 weeks prior to installing it.
Sold mine first 3 months owning the car along with the stock tire carrier. Keep an eye out.
Are you towing or do you need a 2" receiver for accessories? (bike rack, cargo carrier, etc.)
I used a cheap bolt on pintle for a while and it was fine for towing, but later cut a square in the x-member and installed my own 2" receiver tube for my cargo/motorcycle carriers.
I used a cheap bolt on pintle for a while and it was fine for towing, but later cut a square in the x-member and installed my own 2" receiver tube for my cargo/motorcycle carriers.
I took mine off. Had some nearby looking for one. I offered to sell it to then cheap and they ghosted me. I am sure I am not unique in that aspect so just posting in the classifieds might find that which you are looking.
I doubt the drawtite is beefier than factory. The factory one is really beefy. The only reason I took mine off was to gain 2” of receiver height with an aftermarket option, but the aftermarket does stick out further.
Don’t understand the second question. A 33” spare tire will work with a factory or aftermarket hitch.
Anyone have the install instructions for the OEM hitch? Bought a used one, and trying to figure out what goes where, along with buying new hardware of course.....
I have had good results with my Draw-Tite hitch. nice clean install . tucks up below rear bumper 5000# or 6000# if used with weight distributing hitch
Should only be one place it goes.....
Make sure your hardware is long enough.
Definitely use anti-seize on the threads for next time, although, I'm guessing it's dry in Gibraltar.....
Should be 6 bolts. Get the right grade.
I think it's 10.9, this is equivalent to grade 8 in freedom bolts.
I'll need to stick my head under my truck and check the heads of the bolts.
So - from what I can figure so far I need for the chassis 6 x 'M12x1.25' 40mm to 55mm depending how big washers used, and of course putting the spacing plates between towbar and chassis. Apparently random if there are captive nuts or not on chassis rails - due to how many tie-downs attached at factory. So may need washers / nuts for some.
Not sure if this is Europe specific (photo attached of towbar when on donor vehicle) for 4 holes on bumper - top is M12*1.25 40mm to 55mm as captive nuts there. I didn't see the removal as bought it and it was shipped to me. Lower ones no captive nuts, so need same bolts but add washers / nuts behind.
Planning on going 55mm length all around as plenty of space, and as per advice above. And for sure 10.9 grade.
Not sure if this is Europe specific (photo attached of towbar when on donor vehicle) for 4 holes on bumper - top is M12*1.25 40mm to 55mm as captive nuts there. I didn't see the removal as bought it and it was shipped to me. Lower ones no captive nuts, so need same bolts but add washers / nuts behind.
Planning on going 55mm length all around as plenty of space, and as per advice above. And for sure 10.9 grade.
Yeah, way different than what us Yankees have.
I found it very difficult to find locally, Zinc plated, 10.9 Grade, M12 x 1.25, full threaded, 40mm+ size bolts.
I believe that 50mm is too long even with the spacing plate.
This is the only place I found and I had to have it shipped.
I believe that 50mm is too long even with the spacing plate.
This is the only place I found and I had to have it shipped.
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I found some at the local ace hardware. But they are all I dependants owned I think so probably no consistent.
