80 Projects & Info (1 Viewer)

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Doable said:
:eek: A Warn M12000 for the 80 :clap:. Oh yea nothing like a little overkill. Seriously that great to have that size winch for the 80.
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I figured as heavy as the 80 is the torque of the M12 would be a good fit. :)
 
Volunteer said:
Ordered a few goods for the 80 to keep me busy before the Sicily trip. Like I have time to get bored :hmm:

Warn M12000 (couldn't pass on the deal from fellow Mud member and never used except to spool the cable on)

Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD Touchscreen In-Dash Double-DIN DVD Multimedia AV Receiver (with Iphone cable so you can control it through the receiver :rolleyes:) No Nav needed.

OEM exhaust gaskets from Musson for the manifold back. (Still trying to get rid of that P0420 code will keep going through it till I get it right)

After that I'll order the gears. Iron Pig has a good deal on front/Rear/+ Install kits with free shipping.

Complete Re-Gear packages:

  • front gear set
  • rear gear set
  • two master install kits
  • Your choice of gear ratio: 4.56, 4.88, 5.29
  • Free shipping on complete gear packages
Early - 1990 Land Cruiser - $649
1991-1997 FJ80 Land Cruiser - $699
1998-2007 UZJ100 Land Cruiser - $749

Only lacking the rear bumper and 35's :D
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Congrats on all the goodies.........while at it get the rear bumper from IPOR.....might strike a deal with Cam while ordering the other stuff?????
 
Clutchee said:
Congrats on all the goodies.........while at it get the rear bumper from IPOR.....might strike a deal with Cam while ordering the other stuff?????
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Thanks and thats an excellent idea ;) by the way what winch you running on the wife's 80?
 
hey on the tires winmill tire on hwy 14 in abbeville had the least expensive bfg mt 35's i was paying 214.00 a tire mounted.

now that was for a r15 and it was the older style.

better price than even 4wheel parts w/o ship and mount..........if we lived by one
 
third coast cruisers said:
hey on the tires winmill tire on hwy 14 in abbeville had the least expensive bfg mt 35's i was paying 214.00 a tire mounted.

now that was for a r15 and it was the older style.

better price than even 4wheel parts w/o ship and mount..........if we lived by one
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Thanks Dan that'll be the last to go on as I'll wear these AT's for as long as I can put up with them. They were next to new when I got the 80 and no real complaints with them so far :) I'll go with the 315 Toyo's or possibly try the Cooper STT's they look like they copied the Toyo design and $200 dollars cheaper on the set :hmm:
 
i hear ya on the yoko's.

i am probably gonna sell my 285 70 r16's.

picked up an nice set of 17" fjcruisers wheels. i probably will put some yoko or bfg at's and down a size for around the town and mild wheeling.

the runner needs to shed some weight on each corner.

the steelies are 34lbs apiece. 47 lbs per tire.

i just need to knock about 20 lbs per corner. that will help with all around performance.

the tundra steelies i want to blast paint and put some 33" mudders on them for trail riding.
 
sparkplug said:
My starter started to act up and I changed it. Just wanted to give you guys a heads up. They made 2 starters for our 80's/450's one is a 2.0 and a 1.4. The 2.0 is better for the cold weather starts but cost about a c-note more. It also seems that most are 2.0. Mine was a Bosh aftermarket and I went with the 1.4 re-man factory denso. I don't get up north that much and I am sure it will work just fine down south when I fire it up for duck season.

After changing EVERYTHING in my coolant system my truck now has better oil pressure. I am sure it has to do with cooler temps. Next thing on my list is a better temp guage, tranny temp guage, and a tranny cooler if my head gasket doesn't blow first.
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Follow up. My truck now takes about a 1/2 of a second longer to start now. Maybe not getting the RPM's or maybe my rig is just a POS. Who knows. I do know that when I start my diesel motors on the boats I run, I hold down the stop switch before letting it fire up. the reason being, letting oil circulate before it fires helps in lubrication. I know this goes against what we have all been told in starting automotive engines.... but that is what my diesel manual tells me what to do. Of course I always follow directions to the T. :rolleyes: Maybe someone who knows what they are talking about can give us some input.
 
sparkplug said:
Follow up. My truck now takes about a 1/2 of a second longer to start now. Maybe not getting the RPM's or maybe my rig is just a POS. Who knows. I do know that when I start my diesel motors on the boats I run, I hold down the stop switch before letting it fire up. the reason being, letting oil circulate before it fires helps in lubrication. I know this goes against what we have all been told in starting automotive engines.... but that is what my diesel manual tells me what to do. Of course I always follow directions to the T. :rolleyes: Maybe someone who knows what they are talking about can give us some input.
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ENGINE OILING 101

as you all know the worst thing you can do to any motor is start it.
more ware n tare is done in that first few seconds and warm up that at any other time to the moving components due to no oil cushion "oil pressure" & expansion ratios on the different metal.
the larger the engine the worse it is.

as in the case of the instructions for the boat they want oil pressure to rise before the combustion drives the rod bearing to the crankshaft although when you are cranking with the starter you do produce load on a non cushioned bearings & crank in is not as high or as violent as when the piston is fired.

so a little crank time before an engine lights up is GOOD!

the best thing is a pre-oiler nuthin more than an electric motor/pump that is tied to the oil gallery that before starting you run to oil the intire engine can even tie it in so that the starter won`t engage befor a set oil pressure is met NO DRY STARTS EVER:clap:

BELL--------- ringing

class dismissed :cheers::beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
Well, thought I'd get around to doing this sooner or later:

Pre-beefing the front "tow point"
DSC05823.jpg


Post - pink shackle mod :flipoff2:
DSC06015.jpg


Midland in the ash tray:
DSC06013.jpg


Took out the old hitch (aka "garden plow") and put in the Slee version that gives more rear clearance:
DSC05820.jpg


Sliders via MetalTech:
DSC06006.jpg


Slee skid plate: broken in in Alabama
DSC06018.jpg


Just like the clear lenses/indicators:
DSC06008.jpg


Wired the ARB and Kamar to the indicators:
DSC06016.jpg

DSC06017.jpg


Hi-Lift Mount on the rear tire carrier - turned out awesome (thanks to Kegley Enterprises, LLC).
DSC06005.jpg

DSC06003.jpg

DSC06004.jpg



Most everyone knows by now that the rig just STUNK (and still has a faint dead body smell). Soooo, took out the entire seats and carpet and shampoo'd the whole thing. While the carpets were out... ran some wire for extra (front & rear) 12v outlets as well as a 700 watt inverter.

DSC06012.jpg

DSC05822.jpg

DSC06014.jpg

breakers:
DSC05826.jpg

DSC05827.jpg


...and replaced the chewed up gear on the front seat:
DSC05828.jpg


CDL switch

TRD "Clutch-type" limited slip in the rear end.

Lastly, did the LandTank seat mod... which by far is my favorite (even tho the other stuff is visible.. the seat mod is AWESOME).

Next:

Indoor winch control & new sticker:

attachment.php


Thanks for looking and thanks to Kegley for all the help.
 
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man i need a PINK shackle mod! :hillbilly::wrench:

that s*** is sexy.

what's next a pink syn line and a pink anodized fair leed.

damn i shouldn't have let those ideas out so soon. :flipoff2:
 
PScottBx said:
Well, thought I'd get around to doing this sooner or later:

Pre-beefing the front "tow point"


Post - pink shackle mod :flipoff2:


Midland in the ash tray:


Took out the old hitch (aka "garden plow") and put in the Slee version that gives more rear clearance:


Sliders via MetalTech:


Slee skid plate: broken in in Alabama


Just like the clear lenses/indicators:


Wired the ARB and Kamar to the indicators:



Hi-Lift Mount on the rear tire carrier - turned out awesome (thanks to Kegley Enterprises, LLC).





Most everyone knows by now that the rig just STUNK (and still has a faint dead body smell). Soooo, took out the entire seats and carpet and shampoo'd the whole thing. While the carpets were out... ran some wire for extra (front & rear) 12v outlets as well as a 700 watt inverter.

DSC06012.jpg

DSC05822.jpg


breakers:



...and replaced the chewed up gear on the front seat:


CDL switch

TRD "Clutch-type" limited slip in the rear end.

Lastly, did the LandTank seat mod... which by far is my favorite (even tho the other stuff is visible.. the seat mod is AWESOME).

Next:

Indoor winch control & new sticker:



Thanks for looking and thanks to Kegley for all the help.
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Good work :wrench: Where did you ge tthe 12v power outlets? I want to order some today. I have the console out working on the cupholders and radio will be in this week so I will do it all at the same time. :)
 
Volunteer said:
Good work :wrench: Where did you ge tthe 12v power outlets? I want to order some today. I have the console out working on the cupholders and radio will be in this week so I will do it all at the same time. :)
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Larry, they seem to have a West Marine logo on them. Just a guess.
 
sparkplug said:
Larry, they seem to have a West Marine logo on them. Just a guess.
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Cool thanks my neighbor works at the one across the St. I'll go check there for lunch ;)
 
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