80 Projects & Info (1 Viewer)

[lostinafog]

nice!

 

[Volunteer]

For those that don't wander over to the Tech section often. LandCruiserPhil has refined and made his sway bar disconnects available for purchase. I was going to fab up something similar, but for $100 it may be worth someone else working out the kinks, sourcing all of the hardware, and proving it out for the past 9 years.

LandCruiserPhil's Sway Bar Disconnect

Was following that thread too , I considered doing a homemade version as well and actually forgot to put the front stabilizer on for the GSMTR trip this year it was the last part painted in the frontend rebuild and didn't make it on before we left. In all honesty it wheeled the same whether it was off or on I didn't notice any difference. I think if it ever limited me from doing something I was set on doing I would have ditched it or come up with something years ago but it just hasn't and I rather have a small amount of limitation rather than throw a spring on the trail like I've read a few folks doing so its still on my list but just not at the top I'm glad he perfected a good design for those of us who have good intentions but fall back to ordering it from someone who already did the R&D work

 

[lostinafog]

being weighing full articulation open open vs some flex & fully locked four some time

for the type of wheeling most do you almost if not always have two tires weighted so flex is not that critical other that to keep the cabin more upright aka less tippy.

coil supsp give a fair amount of flex plus possible puck a spring if it is too flexible.

leaf is limited by the spring pack unless you use the flexible joint hangers then you have a lot of body roll on the hwy

have found on TUC the dico on the front sway bar dose give a bit more articulation off road does it help can`t say never tried an obstacle with it then without but my feeling would be not much but then Tuc is fully locked. which leads back to first statement.

now on a buggy that is a whole other deal but ya don`t drive it on the super slab

 

[raevenzero]

When I had my little flop in TN a few years ago, I blame a lot of it on poor flex. With the stiffer springs that I was running at the time, it seemed that when the front tire went up on the rock, the rear tire lifted into the air. Once that tire was in the are, the rest of the truck followed pretty quickly.

I think flex does a lot for stability on the trail. Also, you may have most weight on two tires, but I have been nearly fully flexed and have not been able to lift a tire off of the ground by hand. I feel like there is leverage from the opposite tire using the springs as a fulcrum and other physics that play a part.

 

[Volunteer]

Good info you may need to reference when servicing the rear axle. I've been wanting to do a complete tear down of the rear axle like I did the front last year but I just don't have the time to have it down that long. I'll have to wait for whole tear down as a winter project in the offseason in the meantime it'l be all cleaned up and easier after this bearing job and just in time the axle seals are leaking and washing out the grease which will lead to bearing failure. Keep an eye on your maintenance needs as much as we work our Toys they need a little TLC every now and then

Useful thread I needed the oil seal part numbers.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-rear-axle-rebuild.732072/

Rear Axle parts
43422-60040 x2 (gasket for axle to hub)
90311-62002 x2 (inner oil seal)
90310-35001 x2 (outer oil seal)

Other parts to consider:

Bearings:
90368-49087-77 x2
90368-45087-77 x2

If your studs are old, you might consider replacing them as well. If your cone washers don't expand anymore, you might want to replace them. Washers are washers.

90170-08204 x6 (Nuts)
90201-08042 x6 (Washers)
90116-08325 x6 (Stud bolts)
42323-60010 x6 (Cone Washer)

 

[Volunteer]

Wish Toyota would just put out a damn torque number instead of the 3 step process on the headbolts Finally got the block cleaned up enough for my liking bolted the EGR plug and got the head mounted last night its a slow process cleaning and replacing all the hoses and clamps as I go. Didn't know until I got the head back on but the connector to the rear Knock sensor broke off in the plug when I thought I unplugged it so had to order one so I can put it back in before I start reassembling the intake side which is the most work.

 

[Darasick]

Looking good LL and yes that's a bit of a pain to torque the head down! There's always bumps in the road. When I did mine I missed the step calling for FPIG between the block and the timing chain cover. I ended up trashing my first head gasket and having to wait on a second.

 

[Volunteer]

Looking good LL and yes that's a bit of a pain to torque the head down! There's always bumps in the road. When I did mine I missed the step calling for FPIG between the block and the timing chain cover. I ended up trashing my first head gasket and having to wait on a second.

Thanks bud. I did the same missed the FPIG part and started torquing the head down but I looked real good at it and I can't see it being that big of a need. It doesn't look like the use much. Was planning to move on without it had you read any conversations on it? Will go look while I'm in here

 

[lenross1]

I broke the knock sensor when i replaced the starter one time. Kids learned some "different " words that day LOL

 

[Bang Bang]

Need some help. I have developed a real bad vibration in the LX from 40mph to 60mph. Driving around town really sucks at this point. I am thinking the joint on the d-shaft but how do I test it to see if it's the culprit? And if it turns out that is the issue do I replace with OEM or other? The backstory is I recently changed the front rotors, calipers and brake pads. Shortly after, I replaced the 33" AT's with 35" MT's. Out of nowhere this vibration started a few weeks after the tire install. I re-checked the brakes and all looks good. And I have rotated the tires with no change in the vibration. Thoughts?

 

[elephantsCBR]

you sure you didn't throw a wheel weight?

 

[Bang Bang]

Not 100% sure on it but I don't think so.

 

[lostinafog]

that would be the first thing would check or bad tire

 

[Darasick]

@Bang Bang Is the vibration in the steering or just in general?

 

[Bang Bang]

It rattles the entire truck.

 

[Darasick]

I'm suspecting the same as above based on that comment. I would bring it back to the shop that installed the 35's and ask them to check the balance again.

 

[Volunteer]

Need some help. I have developed a real bad vibration in the LX from 40mph to 60mph. Driving around town really sucks at this point. I am thinking the joint on the d-shaft but how do I test it to see if it's the culprit? And if it turns out that is the issue do I replace with OEM or other? The backstory is I recently changed the front rotors, calipers and brake pads. Shortly after, I replaced the 33" AT's with 35" MT's. Out of nowhere this vibration started a few weeks after the tire install. I re-checked the brakes and all looks good. And I have rotated the tires with no change in the vibration. Thoughts?

If the tire issue doesn't resolve it try taking off the front DS and lock the center diff and drive it and see if it solves your issue.

 

[Volunteer]

I'm so ready to get this project finished and get it on the road or off the road like a lot my projects I took a job and turned into a much bigger project replacing a lot more than it needed but the old adage while I'm in here I might as well.

 

[Darasick]

Very nice! Are the headers ceramic coated?

I've got some valve cover envy

 

[Volunteer]

LOL, thanks bud, no I just blasted and painted them was tired of the worn and dirty looking parts but in an offroad rig it doesn't take long before its all worn looking again. I wanted blast and paint the water outlet parts as well just fell behind with my surgery.