This snorkel kit might be worth a shot for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B90PPGY/?tag=ihco-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B90PPGY/?tag=ihco-20
80 Projects & Info
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This weekends project swap in the 94 grille I scored for next to nothing on the PA rig for the current 95 grille. 
Oh and I finally started mocking up the rear bumper it only took 3 years 
I cut and drilled my bracket mounts out of wood and dropped them off at Percy Guidry's to cut them out of steel and will be picking up some metal to finish mocking things up hopefully this weekend. I'll continue using the wood and transferring it to the metal so I limit the mistakes 
'96 TO '93 Grill Swap Results
Oh and I finally started mocking up the rear bumper it only took 3 years I cut and drilled my bracket mounts out of wood and dropped them off at Percy Guidry's to cut them out of steel and will be picking up some metal to finish mocking things up hopefully this weekend. I'll continue using the wood and transferring it to the metal so I limit the mistakes '96 TO '93 Grill Swap Results
I mocked up my new rear bumper last weekend too! Lafayette Waterjet is cutting the pieces. I'll then go to Guidry's and bend the parts.
My 1st generation front and rear Slee bumpers will be for sale soon...
My 1st generation front and rear Slee bumpers will be for sale soon...
I can't recall, what does a Slee First Gen Front Bumper look like?
Looks like this! 
Not sure why I didn't think of that, but oddly enough, I have yet to find one of the results to match Anvil's pictures above
.BTW that's a great looking 80!
ya right may B not A slee
interested - please send PM when you are ready to sell
Will do! I hope to have the rear bumper finished in the next 2-3 weeks. I'll then start the front bumper. Thanks!
FYI - I just weighed the new 80. It's bone stock other than a brush guard. 4,770 with less than 1/4 tank.
yup 4x4 labs rear, ARB front ,Warn 12K,35`s,Metaltech sliders, full fuel 5880#
Any trick to getting bolts out of the rear window motors? I'm twisting but nothing is happening. It feels like they are spinning on the back side and the motor won't move.
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I'm about to head out and hook a battery to it. I'm hoping it's just a pinched wire in the harness. If I can't get it going, I guess I'm drilling out some bolts.
I was able to fix an issue with the rear hatch only opening from the inside. I'm hoping the rest of the little problems are as simple.
I was able to fix an issue with the rear hatch only opening from the inside. I'm hoping the rest of the little problems are as simple.
While I'm here, I might as well get some opinions. I'm planning on swapping a 6.5 turbo into this 80. I currently have the 4L80E and a stand alone controller to go with the engine. All I need to complete this swap are motor mounts and a 4L80E>HF2A adapter and I'm good to go. Advance Adapters says that I would need to change the tail shaft, but I've read in a few different places that the 2wd tail shaft can be trimmed down and used.
However...
I don't think the gearing with the 4L80E is good for my overall goal. It is also power hungry and will hurt efficiency, but it would probably be indestructible in an 80. A 700R4 would be much better gearing-wise. I can pick up a rebuilt diesel 700R4 around these parts for $500. The gearing would be great, but it is a little weaker.
Or, my favorite option, an NV4500 5 speed with granny low and a 27% OD. This would be an amazing setup, but I would need to install pedals, clutch hydraulics, and buy everything that goes between the engine and transmission. I would also need to source a transfer case out of a FJ62.
I'm thinking that I might move forward with the 4L80E in spring of next year, just so I can get it out on the road. Then, I will start parting out the truck that the engine came out of and also sell the 3FE/A440 combo out of the 80. Then use that money to start putting the NV4500/HF1A combo together.
What do you guys think?
However...
I don't think the gearing with the 4L80E is good for my overall goal. It is also power hungry and will hurt efficiency, but it would probably be indestructible in an 80. A 700R4 would be much better gearing-wise. I can pick up a rebuilt diesel 700R4 around these parts for $500. The gearing would be great, but it is a little weaker.
Or, my favorite option, an NV4500 5 speed with granny low and a 27% OD. This would be an amazing setup, but I would need to install pedals, clutch hydraulics, and buy everything that goes between the engine and transmission. I would also need to source a transfer case out of a FJ62.
I'm thinking that I might move forward with the 4L80E in spring of next year, just so I can get it out on the road. Then, I will start parting out the truck that the engine came out of and also sell the 3FE/A440 combo out of the 80. Then use that money to start putting the NV4500/HF1A combo together.
What do you guys think?
Here's what I've been doing the past few days.
Installed LED dome lights.
Repaired the inoperable outside handle on the rear hatch with some machine screw nuts and a rivet.
Plucked at some bubbles under the rear window and found this.
Pulled out the rear window and hit the area with a wire wheel.
Ouch!
Cleaned it up the best I could, soaked it in Evaporust, then coated with rust converter.
What northern truck would be complete without some Bondo?
Also, ran leads off of a 12v battery directly to the window motor that wasn't working and it worked fine. Troubleshot the problem down to the switch. Took it apart and cleaned it as well as the driver's switch assembly. Coated everything in dielectric grease. Window now works. Still trying to figure out the electronic door locks though!
Sorry for all of the pictures, but I'm excited about this build!
Installed LED dome lights.
Repaired the inoperable outside handle on the rear hatch with some machine screw nuts and a rivet.
Plucked at some bubbles under the rear window and found this.
Pulled out the rear window and hit the area with a wire wheel.
Ouch!
Cleaned it up the best I could, soaked it in Evaporust, then coated with rust converter.
What northern truck would be complete without some Bondo?
Also, ran leads off of a 12v battery directly to the window motor that wasn't working and it worked fine. Troubleshot the problem down to the switch. Took it apart and cleaned it as well as the driver's switch assembly. Coated everything in dielectric grease. Window now works. Still trying to figure out the electronic door locks though!
Sorry for all of the pictures, but I'm excited about this build!
Tough crowd...
Another couple of coats of primer over the Bondo and some 3H4 code paint in aerosol form. I could have stepped down the sanding a lot more, but I didn't want to waste the effort when the whole thing is going to get painted next year anyway. I will smooth it out then. Nicole help me set the window back in. It looks fine at 10 feet or so.
I also spent a little more time hunting down the door lock issue. I thought that it was in the aftermarket alarm wiring, but it actually looks like it should. Since the rear hatch is apart, I isolated and tested that lock actuator and it was perfect. It is definitely the feed. I found a wiring diagram for the 80 and found that there's a "Door Lock Control Relay". At least, there's supposed to be. I was able to find only a footprint.
Another couple of coats of primer over the Bondo and some 3H4 code paint in aerosol form. I could have stepped down the sanding a lot more, but I didn't want to waste the effort when the whole thing is going to get painted next year anyway. I will smooth it out then. Nicole help me set the window back in. It looks fine at 10 feet or so.
I also spent a little more time hunting down the door lock issue. I thought that it was in the aftermarket alarm wiring, but it actually looks like it should. Since the rear hatch is apart, I isolated and tested that lock actuator and it was perfect. It is definitely the feed. I found a wiring diagram for the 80 and found that there's a "Door Lock Control Relay". At least, there's supposed to be. I was able to find only a footprint.