80 knuckle based axle strength

[69LC]

So whilst I sit and sip some rum and wonder what I should do to build my 40 I have a question to pose.

Are the 80 knuckles, hubs, Rcv birfs and custom inner shafts up to the power of a decent LS 6.0, and 37” radials/cut 38.5”x16 TSL trail tires with the idea of building for whatever? I be using a narrowed and shaved 14B rear.

I’m not into competition wheeling, but I want to over build in key areas.

Should I search for a decent junkyard Dana 60 instead? The kingpin axles are seeming to have gone the way of the unicorn.

Deadenber and Crane knuckles don’t fit the budget. I have 80 parts.

Either way I’ll be using a Ford 9” center and housing. I’ve seen the torque load ratings done by the late Bobby “Longfield”.

My goal with my build is to be able to incorporate off the shelf parts with as few custom parts and drive anywhere to wheel and drive back. I don’t want to ever trailer my rig.

Please advise.

 

[reddingcruiser]

My goal with my build is to be able to incorporate off the shelf parts with as few custom parts and drive anywhere to wheel and drive back. I don’t want to ever trailer my rig.

Please advise.

Well, my current axle upgrade is based on FJ80 axles. The rear FF is going to be pretty much stock except for a locker.
The front is based on a widened FJ62 axle housing with 80 birfs, axles, spindles, etc. I haven't decided on the knuckles yet, but I am looking at the available options. Ultimately, the typical 'consumable' parts will be off-the-shelf 80 parts with a 40 third member (ARB). I pondered the Dana front/rear options and the full-custom angle proved to be a deterrent. Though I only have a 5.3, I'm also not a stab it and steer it guy. I'm confident that it will handle up to 37" tires.

The other consideration was the unsprung weight of the Dana's and similar axles.

 

[baldilocks]

The only part on your list that I would question is the 8” ring and pinion. If I had my drothers, I would buy a custom housing and use a 9.5 third with RCV’s and 80 series outer hardware.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Not using the 80 housing, just the balls, birfs, brakes, etc. I'm using a FJ60/62 housing. As far as a custom housing is concerned, I felt the $1k would be better spent on other things. The FJ60 housing is gusseted and more than strong enough for me.

 

[69LC]

That’s what I’m wondering about-the balls, shafts etc. The housing will be fine.

I’m using the 9” because of all of the aftermarket support and options it has and the obvious inherent strength. Maybe I can have 35 spline inners with an ARB.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I've read that 80 knuckle balls, birfs are by far the strongest from the Toyota perspective but have the downside of limited and pricey high steer options. Run ruff stuff / hellfire housings and you're set but that's another grand in costs. Guess there is no way around having to pay to play.

 

[reddingcruiser]

I've read that 80 knuckle balls, birfs are by far the strongest from the Toyota perspective but have the downside of limited and pricey high steer options. Run ruff stuff / hellfire housings and you're set but that's another grand in costs. Guess there is no way around having to pay to play.

As they say, there's no free lunch. I knew the knuckles were the one item I couldn't build myself or develop a work-around, and I considered this when I budgeted the axle swap.

 

[69LC]

So what I’m thinking is that I “borrow” my son’s fj62 front housing while he goes to school and decides how he wants to build his 40/45.

In the meantime I will have time to focus on finding a decent d60 front to use the C’s and knuckles from so I can build my front the way I want.

 

[TachedOutOffRoad]

Besides the damn HP 8", everything else is bigger and better on the 80 axles.

This is Ben from Slees old rig. Diamond 9.5" diff, built 80 outrs, 42" pitbulls, 4.7l V8

A "won-ton" axle if you will. What I'll have next Diamond I buy.