80 & 62 Build NEW VIDEO added

[NCFJ]

If you are a Cruiser guy and a born and bred gear head, this just has to make you smile. 2- Splt cases and a built 4L60E. Oh yeah, a 5.3L off to the left
Those 3 pieces on the left along with the adapter kit above are going in that roller behind it. That's the body hanging on the lift. The T-case on the right is going in the 92 FJ80 build, you can see the DS front tire on the far right

 

[NCFJ]

Every nut and bolt spends 36-48 hours in the tumbler and gets either loctite or antisieze applied before install. These are fuel and brake line bolts. There is still dust from the tumbler in the threads

 

[mtweller]

Hardware looks great, but how do you keep corrosion at bay after that?

R

 

[NCFJ]

Anti sieze on things like bolts in the frame etc, painted heads. You can only do so much to prevent future rust. Keeping the vehicle clean is the first best step. Thread coatings and some sort of paint on the exposed head and washers helps.

 

[angerhater]

it looks as if the threads could use a wire brushing

 

[NCFJ]

There is still dust in the threads, blows right out with compressed air.

 

[NCFJ]

Care package from Onur, thanks buddy you rock!!!!
Body mounts for the 88 62, T-case seals and a wheel cylinder. Try and find a full set of OEM body mounts for an 88 in one place.

 

[NCFJ]

Got the tire hanger and brake lines on the frame and the body down and sitting on the frame. Truck looks better with a straight frame.

 

[mtweller]

Nice! #jealousofguyswithlifts

 

[NCFJ]

The saga continues................
A little history... I order a trans from Monster transmission, they tell me 3 weeks, it takes 7 weeks 4 days. 3 days after it arrives I pull the tail housing off to start putting on the adapter, no reluctor ring on the output shaft. Takes them a week to get it to me. Meanwhile I start doing what I can on the adapter to move forward. The bearing for the spud shaft that adapter uses is wrong. Advanced Adapters had them drop shipped from the bearing company 2nd day. AA takes care of customers. Soooooooo I finally have all I need here at one time!!! I put the reluctor ring on, pressed on the spud shaft bearing and bolted the adapter to the trans.

Cooking with gas now baby!!!! Right up until I started taking the T-case apart. Notice the broken off bolt and no keeper, also notice the burnt oil around the idler shaft on the case.

I removed the broken bolt with an easy out, less than 10 minutes. The idler shaft is designed to be stationary with the keeper keeping it in place. The idler gear set runs on two bearings on that shaft. Due to not having a keeper the shaft spun in the front and rear housing galling the shaft, the housings, the inner bearing races on the idler gear set and destroying the bearing and thrust washers. It was extremely difficult just to remove

 

[mtweller]

D'oh. I feel your pain!

 

[NCFJ]

Heather brought this home tonight. Have a 60 and a taste for gator do ya?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

What are you going to do about the idler shaft surface damage?

Looks like the case needs to be replaced.

 

[NCFJ]

Hey Johnny, thought you were gonna call

The T-case is toast. Both front and rear cover are shot, way too much play in the idler shaft. The idler shaft itself is toast as are the bearings it runs on. Lots of metal floating around inside the case from the case and bearing cage that was wasted. Long story short, Rebuilt case coming from George at Valley Hybrid in CA.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Hey Johnny, thought you were gonna call

The T-case is toast. Both front and rear cover are shot, way too much play in the idler shaft. The idler shaft itself is toast as are the bearings it runs on. Lots of metal floating around inside the case from the case and bearing cage that was wasted. Long story short, Rebuilt case coming from George at Valley Hybrid in CA.

Every day I tell myself "s***, I need to call stan".

I'll get to it before logan's run, I promise.

 

[NCFJ]

Ever wonder where the term "Catherdral Head" derives from? Now you know 04 5.3L Vortec

 

[NCFJ]

A common issue with the LSX series is weak and often broken exhaust manifold bolts. If you are lucky there is enough bolt to weld a nut to and between the heat and new nut they generally come out. This one was broken below the face of the head. I drilled it out and went from an 8mm up to 10mm bolt using a Heli-Coil

 

[mtweller]

Did you drill that freehand? Braver man than I.... nice work.

R

 

[NCFJ]

I did drill it out free hand, started with a very tiny bit and took my time, thanks Ramon. I'll be going back with ARP bolts. Some guys are swapping over to studs and nuts and others are going up to 3/8" bolts. There are even clamps that use the bolt holes on both ends of the head. The metal plate frame bolts to the head and there is a set screw type arrangement to put pressure on the end of the exhaust manifold. There are headers that do not use the two outermost bolts.

 

[JohnVee]

I did drill it out free hand, started with a very tiny bit and took my time, ...

I always end up with a recessed, jagged mess of a shank that never gives me a nice flat surface to drill into. I swear I'm gonna remove and loctite or antiseize every damn bolt on all my vehicles if I ever have the time.