'78 Fj40 2F starting troubles.

[78supreme]

I was having trouble starting a few months ago and got a new starter and a new battery not too long after. Ran good for a few weeks and now is slow to start or wont start at all. Had the battery replaced late last week (for free) because it seemed like it was low current, but that didnt fix the problem. Any one have the same issue or know any thing about this thanks.

 

[Pin_Head]

Check for spark at the distributor coil wire while cranking. If there is a spark, pour 20 ml or 1 Tsp of gasoline down the carb and try again.

 

[sggoat]

Need some more info here to help--when you say 'slow to start" what does that mean? did the engine turn over normally, but wouldn't fire? Did it turn over very slowly, sound like it was laboring? When did the engine start showing this?--Any maint done to it just prior to the problem? When you say "ran good for a few weeks after the new starter/battery"---how often did you run the truck?-daily?
Could be exactly as Pin_head says--maybe spark not getting to dizzy--do his checks--Usually, if it is electrical in nature, it will fail first time-permanently) If it is a problem that seems to be gradually getting worse--may be fuel associated(carb)-or fuel filter/fuel pump--

 

[78supreme]

Slow to start is a rump rump like a dead battery. Engine is turning but very slow. after two or three failed "rumps" it'll fire up. I changed the oil about the same time as the new starter. I drive the truck daily on small roads no highway. Probably not related but it seems worse in the rain or snow. Did not try pin heads tricks yet but did replace battery connection wires the old ones we're lose but the new ones didn't help.

 

[taro]

How's the alternator?

 

[SteveH]

Check the ground wire from the battery to the frame and from the starter to the frame (should be a fat black wire with a yellow stripe). Clean both ends of these wires carefully, lightly grease them, and reinstall them.

 

[Howard705]

Check batt volts or just jump it off something else. If it whips right over then batt or charging problem. If the same then cable/starter . can check for motor ground by connecting jumper cable from batt - to engine block.

 

[78supreme]

The distributor is frozen and won't move. Could that be part of the problem? Tried jumping it off the block last night and it turned right over once than tried again and nothing.

 

[Pin_Head]

It sounds more like a bad battery or starter if it won't crank properly. Obviously, if the rotor didn't turn, it wouldn't run at all, so you don't really mean the distributor is frozen. What you mean is that the distributor body won't turn in the block, preventing you from changing the timing. It helps to be more precise about what you mean so that people can understand what the problem is.

 

[Howard705]

Jumping of someting else=jumpstart=another vehicle, battery to battery with large gauge jumper cables.

 

[John Smith]

I'm going with alternator and or voltage regulator is shot. Rain and snow equals headlights and wipers on, draining battery, eventually killing it. This is what happened to your last battery.

 

[airbornemp19]

The distributor is frozen and won't move. Could that be part of the problem? Tried jumping it off the block last night and it turned right over once than tried again and nothing.

That's common but shouldn't be the cause of difficulty starting because the distributor will just run in the default setting although it will cause you to burn more fuel and run slightly rougher at higher RPMs. Spray some grease around the edges of the dizzy under the cap where it turns and check your vacuum line, it should begin to move again as you rev the engine with a little lube, mine did this once. If that doesn't work, PM me I keep a spare non-smog distributor.

 

[Pighead]

The distributor is frozen and won't move.

I assume you've loosened the distributor clamp?

 

[78supreme]

Thanks for the info guys. currently doing a SOA so it's down for a few weekends so I can figure out the starting as well