77 FJ40 • Starter won't stop

[WGermer]

Hey all, I have an issue that just popped up in the last week or so on my 1977 fj40. When I go to start it up, the starter will stay engaged and spinning after the engine starts. Even if I move the key to off, the starter will still keep trying to turn over.. Rrrrr Rrrrr Rrrrr.... etc. The only way I can get it to stop spinning after the engine starts is to have the hood up and I have someone bang on the starter with a tire iron to have it disengage. I put in the gear reduction starter about 6 months ago, and although I haven't driven it a ton (been working on body stuff) its never done this until this week. At least it passed emissions and safety before this popped up.

I've searched the threads I can find on this issue, and it sounds like it could be either the starter wiring - which I don't think it is since its been starting and running pretty good... or it could an issue with the ignition switch. I even read a thread that mentioned that maybe the key could be the issue. My key is very worn, in fact my key will often fall out of the ignition switch as I make a turn or hit a bump (engine keeps right on running).

I don't want to tear into the ignition switch, but maybe thats the culprit?

Any ideas would be great.

Wyatt

 

[robbs6940]

The ignition switch is crazy easy to bypass, if you have any electrical inclination at all. "Best" way is with a $10 3 pole switch from your local marine shop. B for battery hot, I for ignition (to distributor), S to starter solenoid. What I would probably do however is run a temporary jumper from the starter solenoid to the battery. Key in run position, touch wire to battery, then remove and see if it disengages. Since you can bang on it and make it stop, I would suspect that wiring may not be the fault. Worn starter shaft or (more likely) bendix, weak return spring, years of grime. Try to bypass IGN switch as described, and see if problem persists. Rebuild or replace if wiring bypass test still shows problem. If problem consistently goes away with bypass and returns on original switch, then you will know you have no choice but address your switch.

 

[WGermer]

Thanks for the reply.

So to restate what I need to do: detach current wire on starter solenoid, and run a temporary wire that I will touch on the battery while the key is "on".

I'll try this In the next day or two.

 

[cjgoode]

Just spend the $20 and order a replacement switch, a few screws to remove the cover, one little screw to remove the switch and swap in the new one. Literally takes 5 minutes. You do not replace the key part of the switch, just the electric part behind it.

http://cruiseroutfitters.com/int_IG60070.html

Here is a link to the previous page where the item is listed with price and details. It is about half way down.
http://cruiseroutfitters.com/electrical.html

 

[WGermer]

Just spend the $20 and order a replacement switch, a few screws to remove the cover, one little screw to remove the switch and swap in the new one. Literally takes 5 minutes. You do not replace the key part of the switch, just the electric part behind it.

http://cruiseroutfitters.com/int_IG60070.html

Here is a link to the previous page where the item is listed with price and details. It is about half way down.
http://cruiseroutfitters.com/electrical.html

Ah.. yeah, if its not that hard thats a cheap fix that I should do. Thanks for the links.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I put in the gear reduction starter about 6 months ago...

This is a common issue (not really an issue, more of a wear item) most often it is the contacts in the solenoid. Once they wear, the starter will only click when energised and/or will stick on. The contacts and if needed plunger are readily available and easy to replace.

This thread lists the dealer parts (confirm that they are correct for your starter) and shows pix of the install. To just replace the contacts, start at #6, the three bolt cover. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/here-are-the-toyota-part-s-for-a-starter-rebuild.105626/

Have had good luck with aftermarket (they are just copper contacts), like these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0031HL09E/?tag=ihco-20

 

[sggoat]

x2 Tools-R-Us--copper plate in the soln is prob fused/welded to the contacts--follow the link to the rebuild

 

[WGermer]

Thanks guys. I 'd hate to think the starter contacts went bad after only 6 months. I've barely even used it. For the most part I've been working on body work, and so it's sat in my garage for months. But I'll check it out. I'm kinda dreading pulling the starter just because of that one bolt closest to the engine. Holy cow, that one bolt took a long time to get off.

 

[cjgoode]

I had the exact same problem. The ignition switch was the problem. You leave the ignition swith off and pull the coil to dist wire off. And then take a wire from pos side of battery and touch it to the ignition wire of the starter to engage. Then take off. If the starter responds correctly and stops then you know the starter is good.

 

[WGermer]

So I jumpered the starter solenoid to the battery, and the starter went on for about 3 full seconds, with just a touch to the battery. That's not normal right? Shouldn't the starter just try and engage only while I make that connection?

 

[cjgoode]

That does not sound normal to me, but I have never just taped it, I have jumped it to turn the motor over or try and start it. If I was at the other house I would go out and test it on mine.

 

[sggoat]

x2-- you can do that with a screwdriver

That does not sound normal to me, but I have never just taped it, I have jumped it to turn the motor over or try and start it. If I was at the other house I would go out and test it on mine.

Agree-not normal. As soon as the connection is broken, starter should stop--somehow the starter seems to be getting power from somewhere??
Try disconnecting ALL the starter wires--then do the jumper thing- if the starter still runs on I would be amazed--
Seems like there is a connection there that is causing the soln to stay engaged for a few seconds(like it was gunked up inside-making it slow to move in and out--)----With all the wires disconnected, you could tell if this is true.

 

[Kayaker]

Same thing happened to me a few months back. On mine it was the selenoid and a cheap fix. Here's the thread.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/starter-solenoid-fj40.766751/

 

[WGermer]

Here's my update on this: the problem gradually got worse, to the point where it would stay running afte the key was long out, and even banging on the starter had nearly no effect. I ordered a new ignition switch, the one that runs done the steering column to see if that would fix it, but it didn't at all. But it was easy to change out, so thanks for the advise on that.

I ended up pulling the starter and taking it back to napa, and they gave me another one. What's weird is this one turns the engine much faster than the last one. And considering the one that had problems was only about10 months old, I would think it should've lasted much longer.

Hopefully this the solution to the proble, and that it doesn't come back on this starter.

Thanks for everyone's help!