73 OEM rolcage what would be a reasonable price for it?

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Dan,
For what the cage actually accomplishes, I don't know that you'd lose a fair entry by manipulating the base plate to confirm to the wheel well arch, and through bolting.

It's the look you're after and think achievable without surgery.

I can't even begin to speculate when this will even occur, but could cut out a large enough portion of the well to patch into yours, when mine goes under the knife of a surgeon that's not yet even determined.
 
Don't cut the truck up. I am not about to weld in wheelhouse sections. I will make spacer plates and go the throughbolt way. My climate is dry enough that rust is not an issue.
 
With a name like that, it should look like this...

Good one!!

When the US entered WWII, my grandfather (WOP) became one of the highest ranking cooks in the armed forces.

Until the day the died held contempt for any that drove Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, or Japanese vehicles, so much so that when I got in to drive away from buying my first car ('83 280Z) I begged his forgiveness, his passing only a year prior.
 
My two cents as the owner of a 73 with factory roll bar....

The factory tubes are adequate, but not robust. If my rig did not have a bar and if I felt the need, the preferred solutions would be either:

a) Custom aftermarket bar that ties into the front "hoop" and secured to new plates bolted to the floor behind the wheel arches, or

b) Exoskeleton tied to sliders and rear bumper. Jason (@Cruisin' http://www.cruisinoffroad.com) built this up for @Phil in BC. IF one needed sliders and a rear bumper, this could present a suitable alternative to an interior bar. Whether full cage with front portion or just the segment behind the doors. A bit of overkill for my mall-crawler, but with protection and roof rack, would make a nice package for touring. This would also give me a place to put my little DiamondRax.

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Don't cut the truck up.

She's gonna get carved up....

Why I'm saying you should load up the truck with tools, bring an empty trailer, and pack home the trimmings.

You NEED a spare H55/split case, spare axles, leafs, driveshafts, cross member, whatever else unbolts from the frame or body, AND the 5 cylinder VM is a helluva conversation piece.

Unlike Benito's head, when two go, it doesn't stop the other three from forging on.
 
Hmmmm. I'll be keeping an eye out when the H55 and case come out. Spares are always good to have ;)
 
a) Custom aftermarket bar that ties into the front "hoop" and secured to new plates bolted to the floor behind the wheel arches, or

b) Exoskeleton tied to sliders and rear bumper. Jason (@@Cruisin' http://www.cruisinoffroad.com) built this up for @@Phil in BC. IF one needed sliders and a rear bumper, this could present a suitable alternative to an interior bar. Whether full cage with front portion or just the segment behind the doors. A bit of overkill for my mall-crawler, but with protection and roof rack, would make a nice package for touring. This would also give me a place to put my little DiamondRax.

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You fellows anticipating a Rhino charge?
 
That one will require the heavy double rifle to stop ;)
 
I just got a bit sick to my tummy there........What if that was pushing a shopping cart? :eek:
 
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Was thinking more of a .416 rigby ;)
 
That one will require the heavy double rifle to stop ;)
To keep this on the Tech forum, here is a well-kitted Iranian 75 with a remote control water cannon (for those who prefer non-lethal means of dealing with animal hazards).

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My two cents as the owner of a 73 with factory roll bar....

The factory tubes are adequate, but not robust. If my rig did not have a bar and if I felt the need, the preferred solutions would be either:

a) Custom aftermarket bar that ties into the front "hoop" and secured to new plates bolted to the floor behind the wheel arches, or

b) Exoskeleton tied to sliders and rear bumper. Jason (@Cruisin' http://www.cruisinoffroad.com) built this up for @Phil in BC. IF one needed sliders and a rear bumper, this could present a suitable alternative to an interior bar. Whether full cage with front portion or just the segment behind the doors. A bit of overkill for my mall-crawler, but with protection and roof rack, would make a nice package for touring. This would also give me a place to put my little DiamondRax.

All good points. The main reason I like the factory bar is, well, because it IS factory. I like the appearance and integration. I also like the seat belt attaching points. I agree that it tends to be a fancy decoration. I am all about fancy decorations...:lol:
 
Dan -
I am glad I have mine, even though the rear seat is long gone. It does provide some protection and I am sure a use will be found for the seat belt mounting base for location of a fire extinguisher / air tank, weapons rack, bud vase, etc.
 
You fellows anticipating a Rhino charge?

It's what's unanticipated that's a greater concern of mine, but may exhibit a propensity for rolls and why the factory bar is coming out.

Historical precedence aside, I just wanna make sure that if I do roll, I can still drive it home and considering what web perusals result with or without the bar, still have great concern over the cabrio (for lack of better) strength and the A to B support, and trying to figure out a design that's appealing, looks stock-ish, but will guarantee survival at 50mph.

I think the bar is primarily a means to attach a shoulder belt, offer a little protection, but the rear passengers are still going to be triaged with head injuries....

All good points. The main reason I like the factory bar is, well, because it IS factory. I like the appearance and integration. I also like the seat belt attaching points. I agree that it tends to be a fancy decoration. I am all about fancy decorations...:lol:

So let's think about this for a second, since we now know there's no base plate on yours.

What kind of provisions for attachment do you think are present in your hoop, here?

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Are we gonna need to swap the plastic cabrio (again, I dunno WTH to call it) cover, too?

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Is it possible we gotta swap the entire cabrio (someone help me with WTH it's called) too?

Lastly, in the event it's determined you're only in need of the bar, anyone know if the top has to pull to remove?

I'm not good at Tetris....
 
Mine has two plastic plugs in that location. I suspect they go into holes that are hopefully threaded. It appears that the pillar trim in yours is cut back to clear the bar. I was going to drive mine to work today but the batteries were too low to kick it over. I left the voltage converter on and it should be driven every couple days when I do that. It's on the two-bank charger now.
 
As far as I know it will come out without pulling the FRP. It should be three pieces. The hoop and the two forward horizontal bars.
 
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