71FJ40 Chevota

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Tire day!
37x13.5r17 cooper stt pros
Discount had them in stock too (which is why I ended up with 13.5 vs 12.5
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Does anyone have tips on cutting a 1”X2” square hole without a plasma or torch?

Ok so I finally have a garage to work in after moving to a new house. I started tackling removal and replacement of the rear crossmember. The PO cut about 20” out of it so it’s toast. Since this isn’t a factory rebuild I’m using 2x4” 3/16 wall square tubing to rebuild it.

I want to mount tow points through the crossmember, weld front and rear and bolt directly to the frame.
I will add other support as well but like the idea of having the tow point bolt direct to the frame rail in at least one spot.

Hence the question regarding cutting square holes.

My current plan is to drill a 1/8” hole in 2 corners, and a 3/8” dial hole in the other 2.

Then use a jig saw to cut the square.

Photos below. I think I can weld fill the large hole, grind it smooth, then tack and finish weld the clevis thru the crossmember.

Thanks for ideas.,.
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4" angle grinder with a cutting blade will be faster.
 
I started there too, any concerns about the overcut on the corners? Would you just feather it out and weld fill it?
 
You're welding anyway.. All of the over cuts will be aesthetic, the main strength will be in the attachment to the frame.
 
Test fit. Should weld tomorrow, then onto lights, bracing, replace the tub mounts, etc.
I’ll be moving the taillights into the bumper and adding a 3rd btakelight.
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Test fit. Should weld tomorrow, then onto lights, bracing, replace the tub mounts, etc.
I’ll be moving the taillights into the bumper and adding a 3rd btakelight.

I gotta say once you pass out of the preservationists mindset(350 for me), The build get more interesting. I truly appreciated a preserved rig, but I love a personalized build too. Keep up the good work.
 
Thanks Archie73, I agree.
One think I like about mud is the build variety of stock, restomods, and customs.
This one is pretty rough and far from stock so I don’t feel bad getting creative. Hopefully it ends up with a classic mod look
 
You are making great progress and it looks to be quality work. Perseverance will get you where you want to be.

Good luck
 
Got the 4 brackets mocked up, then Sprayed the faying surfaces with weld primer before final welding
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Ok go the crossmember/bumper done
On the taillights the center ones are typical brake/turn/tail light and the outer 2 spots light up for brake/turn.

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I needed to relocate the battery this weekend so I can cut off the POs shock/battery mount.
I got to use the DIY press to bend a 3/16 bracket to span between the old heater and inner fender. I’ll be using an aftermarket heater (Mojave or Summit) anyway.
I still have to put a hold down in, I’ll probably use a trail gear battery box. At any rate the batt is out of the way for now...

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Pulled the front leafs, wire wheeled and painted with 2 coats of slip plate. I’ll probably leave the 2nd shortest leaf out when I re assemble. Trying to lower the soa about .75”.

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Used F250 shock towers, cut and flattened them out then added some gussets.
Welded them to the frame.
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I made a few brackets to support the radiator and mounted the TG battery box.
Oh and also finished the bracket for the coolant overflow. Just small things.
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Finally cutting off the POs Saginaw conversion. Somehow it was set for a 3 bolt box, but had a 4 bolt unit, then it was at the wrong angle and ... anyway it had to go.
Next up I’ll fit a 4X4Labs conversion.
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