70 series power mirrors (1 Viewer)

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I have an question regarding the 70 series power mirrors. I damaged the one on my right side the other day by hitting a pole while backing up and need to replace it. After taking apart the mirror, it seems like I can swap the 24V motors into a new 12V set for something like a VDJ76. Has anyone here ever done this?

The motors inside the original power mirror don't say anything on them except "made in taiwan" so I am unsure they are in fact 24V but I am making that assumption based that these are original OEM mirrors and they are off a 24V vehicle.

powermirror.jpg
 
Your thought is probably correct, the only thing I can think of where that would not work is if Toyota changed the mechanicals sizes inside the mirror, this make sense?

It does. I didn't think of this before but I could probably just swap the whole encased motor unit over and not the motors themselves. The mirror just snaps onto the whole motor unit.
 
Some more detail and how mirrors are secured to the motor. This may help anyone that needs to replace their 70 series power mirrors that are 24V. As far I know they are not available. This allows you to access the motor housing on the original 24V units and you can possibly swap the whole 24V motor housing in a new set of 12V power mirrors or just the motors themselves (details on the motor housing and motors shown in this thread earlier).

The mirror is secured to the motor by three different ball snap-in points and two bar type snap-in points. The two bar type snap-in points are side by side with one of the ball snap-in points (circled in yellow).

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Mounting points up close:

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Tool I used to pry the mirror off. Must be long and flat to slide in between the mirror and the housing where it sits. Be patient and pry off carefully.

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Hey, thanks for this post, I have wondered how these are put together as I want to eventually replace the convex mirrors on both sides to straight mirror glass for backing up trailers. I find the convex mirrors very annoying when backing up as it is nearly impossible to gauge distance.

I have not done anything about it yet because I was always afraid of breaking something trying to get them apart. At least this shows me ''what's behind the mirror'' :cheers:
 
Side question since you have yours apart:
Is there any way to tighten the twisting joint where the black plastic base joins to the chromed section?
I fear my passenger mirror assembly will fly off one day.
 
Side question since you have yours apart:
Is there any way to tighten the twisting joint where the black plastic base joins to the chromed section?
I fear my passenger mirror assembly will fly off one day.

I don’t have photos but there are three screws that hold the chromed section down to the black base. Two of the screws are only accessible by removing the mirror assembly from the door while the third screw is seen on the exterior of the whole assembly.

These three screws seemed to suffer the most from rust and corrosion.
 
Thanks! I guess I will have to bite the bullet and disassemble. I've never had the door cards off yet so this will be new territory.
I love the "snap-back-into-position" feature of the old mirrors.
 
Thanks! I guess I will have to bite the bullet and disassemble. I've never had the door cards off yet so this will be new territory.
I love the "snap-back-into-position" feature of the old mirrors.

you don’t have to pull the cards to remove the mirrors. It is just two screws on the outside of the door, then disconnect the power connection.
 
Thanks! I guess I will have to bite the bullet and disassemble. I've never had the door cards off yet so this will be new territory.
I love the "snap-back-into-position" feature of the old mirrors.

Hello,

Three screws connect the mirror housing to the base. To access them, you must rotate the mirror and unscrew them one by one. One rotation per screw.

The mirror housing is attached to the mount with a ring. It is difficult to extract this ring without breaking it.





Juan
 
Hello,

Three screws connect the mirror housing to the base. To access them, you must rotate the mirror and unscrew them one by one. One rotation per screw.

The mirror housing is attached to the mount with a ring. It is difficult to extract this ring without breaking it.

Juan

Maybe I misunderstood what @jblueridge wanted to do. I thought he just wanted to remove the whole mirror assy from the door.

If you wanted to remove the base from the mirror housing...the hardest part is removing the three screws because they are small and rusty. Here are some photos of the three screws in the base.

Once you remove those three screws (if you are lucky), then you will have to unpin the connector from the wires and pull it out from the base. Leaving the connector on won't allow you to do this. Then you can remove the guts from the mirror housing. Why did I do this? I am going to try to strip the chrome from the mirror housing and then paint it black. With the chrome on there, the paint won't stick.

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I guess I want to get the mirror off the door and then make sure all is well with the 3 screws and that basic connection. I bought some chrome plastic covers that fit tightly over the mirror housings and their failing chrome coating.
 
I guess I want to get the mirror off the door and then make sure all is well with the 3 screws and that basic connection. I bought some chrome plastic covers that fit tightly over the mirror housings and their failing chrome coating.
Where did you find those covers?
 
hey FJ73,,, i have a big crate full of parts ive been collecting and i know theres a pair of chrome powered mirrors in there,,,lemme check condition, pretty sure they are 12v but your welcome to them if you can make use of them
 
Thank you Rhino. Only if you are not going to use them, I may be able to use the parts.
 
@FJ73Texas now that you have everything gutted, did you find any differences between 12V and 24V? I'm about to gut mine, but it would save a lot of time if they were identical inside.

just the motors and the color of the wires. Externally the motors look the same except 12V is printed on the new motors. Old motors don’t say anything.

That being said, I had a very hard time getting the mirror back in place. It was the hardest part because you have to be careful not to break the mirror or anything else. I don’t want to do this again, ever. I am not sure if these mirrors are meant to be serviceable.
 
Hey, thanks for this post, I have wondered how these are put together as I want to eventually replace the convex mirrors on both sides to straight mirror glass for backing up trailers. I find the convex mirrors very annoying when backing up as it is nearly impossible to gauge distance.

I have not done anything about it yet because I was always afraid of breaking something trying to get them apart. At least this shows me ''what's behind the mirror'' :cheers:

I saw this on posted another site and was reminded of your post here. Not sure what the change is exactly but this must explain why the older power mirror part numbers are being phased out. Perhaps the mirror was improved for towing purposes? If so, then getting the updated mirrors would be much easier than swapping out the mirror itself (trust me on this one).

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