69Yota FJ40 Orange Crush

[FJCowboy]

This thread is more about documenting what I have and what I do with her over the years. Always welcome comments, questions, concerns, and inputs. This was originally built by @hatfieldcb in 2007/2008 timeframe and he took it to Moab and Rubicon. I was fortunate to acquire in June 2019 with one other owner in-between.

• T-308 Toyota Orange
• 77 2F – rebuilt, bored, and RV cam
• Novak SM420 (37 Series, '64-67)- professionally rebuilt
• AA Orion (#20243) 4.0 low range
• Novak T-Case adapter
• 4x4 Labs large pattern, 6-stud, crossover steering
• FJ60 power steering
• ARB diff locks front & rear
• Longfield 4340 Chromoly front inner & outer axles
• Poly Performance rear 4340 chromoly axles
• York compressor On-board air with storage tank
• New OBA hoses front to back and brass connections (2020)
• Bestop Tiger top and matching bikini top, gray
• Early hard doors (no hardtop)
• Stainless steel brake lines
• IPOR rear bumper with swing-out tire carrier
• SOR front bumper
• Custom sliders
• Solid Rock Off-Road custom skid plate
• 35x12.5R-17 BFG MT KM3 on 17x8.5 Trail Ready Beadlocks (2020)
• 4-wheel disc brakes (TSM rear kit)
• LCAH shackle reversal kit
• 4” BDS springs
• Tom Woods front driveshaft
• MetalTech “Jackson” roll cage
• Warn 8000lb winch
• Tuffy security console
• Gray "Speedliner" bedliner interior
• Re-covered, re-conditioned stock bucket seats
• Pioneer AM/FM/SAT/CD/IPOD, marine speakers
• Champion 4 Core Radiator (2019)
• Refurbished Carburetor from CarbX (2019)
• Replaced main engine oil gasket & oil galley plug (2020)
• Replaced leaf shackle polyurethane bushings (2020)
• Trail cover from dirtroadtops.com (2019)

 

[FJCowboy]

So what is next...

• York 210 compressor creates enough pressure to fill the tank and engage the lockers but has a hard time filling the tires over 20psi. Looked into a refurb kit, but I'm thinking of finding a refurbished one and start fresh. I have been told that I need a hand throttle to increase the idle in order to increase the pressure from the York. I'm hoping the refurb'd York will be good enough.
• Transmission is slipping out of 2nd quite frequently and 3rd sometimes. Happens from takeoff and when the transmission is not under torque. I'm working with County Transmissions in Vienna to see what is going on. Muncie SM420 is usually pretty bulletproof, but hopefully, it isn't anything too bad. Maybe the lifters or maybe a rebuild of the tranny.
• Leaf springs and new shocks. I'm considering some longer springs as the angle at the shackle is more vertical than it should be. Will look into some replacement shocks as well, most likely larger volume and possibly reservoir.
• Possibly some flat fenders for wheeling days
• Additional fuel needs to be addressed at some point. The original 12 gallon leaves a bit to be desired. Jerry can/Rotopax or maybe a full replacement under the tub down the road.

More to follow...

 

[Stumpalama]

So what is next...

• York 210 compressor creates enough pressure to fill the tank and engage the lockers but has a hard time filling the tires over 20psi. Looked into a refurb kit, but I'm thinking of finding a refurbished one and start fresh. I have been told that I need a hand throttle to increase the idle in order to increase the pressure from the York. I'm hoping the refurb'd York will be good enough.

Yorks are simple enough to rebuild.
As far as a hand throttle, they are handy for bumping up the idle to keep the engine running when in steep crawling situations.
If you have a late model carb, a trick idea for increasing the idle when running the York is to install a simple VSV tied into the pressure switch for the York and an A/C "idle up" diaphragm from an FJ60 onto the carb. The idea is that when you switch on the York, the VSV opens, pulling vacuum on the diaphragm, which in turn, increases the idle at the carb. The cool thing about this method is that the idle is responsive to the York and will increase when the York engages and will drop back to normal when it turns off. That way you don't have to remember to pull the hand throttle or forget to push it back in.[/list]

 

[FJCowboy]

Yorks are simple enough to rebuild.
As far as a hand throttle, they are handy for bumping up the idle to keep the engine running when in steep crawling situations.
If you have a late model carb, a trick idea for increasing the idle when running the York is to install a simple VSV tied into the pressure switch for the York and an A/C "idle up" diaphragm from an FJ60 onto the carb. The idea is that when you switch on the York, the VSV opens, pulling vacuum on the diaphragm, which in turn, increases the idle at the carb. The cool thing about this method is that the idle is responsive to the York and will increase when the York engages and will drop back to normal when it turns off. That way you don't have to remember to pull the hand throttle or forget to push it back in.[/list]

Hmm...I like the sound of that. I agree the hand throttle has other benefits, but not sure if I need all of that quite yet. I really like the idea of adding the VSV especially if it works on its own and I don't have to do anything. How would I determine if I have a late model carb? It is a replacement and refurbished for the 2F. Sounds like we are due for another Tech Day. Thanks!

 

[Stumpalama]

Here is the basic idea, of course, you don't need to tap off that specific spot for vacuum, just a from non ported vacuum and there are lots of places to get that.
The idea is that in normal operation, the valve is switched of and the diaphragm vents to atmosphere, when activated, the VSV switches to pull vacuum and pulls on the diaphragm, thus increasing the idle. Simple but effective.

As far as the carb goes. A picture of it from the top/front angle would be the best way to identify it, but essentially, what you are looking for is a long shaft with a flat machined area and a screw hole protruding towards the front from the primary throttle butterfly.

You may even still have the A/C idle diaphragm connected. Many people don't even know what this doohickey is:

The VSV is pretty easy to source as well. In fact, I probably have both the diaphragm and a VSV that would work, in my parts stash.

 

[FJCowboy]

Here is the basic idea, of course, you don't need to tap off that specific spot for vacuum, just a from non ported vacuum and there are lots of places to get that.
View attachment 2491354

As far as the carb goes. A picture of it from the top/front angle would be the best way to identify it, but essentially, what you are looking for is a long shaft with a flat machined area and a screw hole protruding towards the front from the primary throttle butterfly.

View attachment 2491372
You may even still have the A/C idle diaphragm connected. Many people don't even know what this doohickey is:

View attachment 2491377

The VSV is pretty easy to source as well. In fact, I probably have both the diaphragm and a VSV that would work, in my parts stash.

Awesome, I'm picking it up from High Tech later today as they were addressing the gasket and oil galley plug leak as well as the leaf spring bushings. I will take a look and see what I have on the Carb.

 

[matzell]

That is a good looking truck, I remember seeing it at Fall Crawl. Good luck with it.

 

[FJCowboy]

That is a good looking truck, I remember seeing it at Fall Crawl. Good luck with it.

Thanks and Fall Crawl was a good shakedown to see if/what needed to be addressed. As usual with these rigs, the driver needs more experience than the rig. I was really pleased and excited for some more adventures.

 

[FJCowboy]

@Stumpalama here are some photos of the carb and I don't believe I have the AC switch you referred to. On the third photo is that potentially where it would connect? Fully admit, I'm still learning. Either way, based on what you see here? Is there a possibility of modifying my carb for your solution or is that a whole new carb?

 

[FJCowboy]

Another interesting discovery as some of you heard/witnessed (@JohnVee @landwagon @1428Mike ) my front driveshaft bolts from the yoke to flange apparently came loose during Fall Crawl and ultimately were sheered off on the trail, no damage, and fortunately, we had 4 spare bolts between us. Ordered some new bolts from Tom Woods (based on my belief it is one of his driveshafts) and got them in this week...well no bueno and more to learn. The bolts I have been using appear to be 8mm, the flange holes appear to be 10mm, and the yoke holes appear to be 9mm. The TW bolts were 10mm. So...all of this to say is it bad the yoke and flange holes are different sizes? Would using 8mm bolts in a 9mm and 10mm be the cause for them to come loose? They were cranked down with a split washer. I don't believe they require any specific torque. If the flange hole size difference doesn't matter, I need to find some 9mm bolts and get them installed. #alwayslearning
Not that photos are needed, but always good reference.

 

[Jakes40]

My 69 had 8mm originally. I drilled the flanges to fit 10mm bolts from the hardware store. I am still running them up front. Upgraded the rears to standard drive shaft bolts from a newer year. Not sure the size.

 

[mwalls54]

Ive done the same as chris. Drilled out the flange on the pinion and run grade 8 bolts. It’s held together after I have broke a few pinions. Flanges held.

 

[FJCowboy]

@Jakes40 @mwalls54 Just to clarify, you all drilled out the Yoke flange or the Differential flange?

 

[Stumpalama]

Another interesting discovery as some of you heard/witnessed (@JohnVee @landwagon @1428Mike ) my front driveshaft bolts from the yoke to flange apparently came loose during Fall Crawl and ultimately were sheered off on the trail, no damage, and fortunately, we had 4 spare bolts between us. Ordered some new bolts from Tom Woods (based on my belief it is one of his driveshafts) and got them in this week...well no bueno and more to learn. The bolts I have been using appear to be 8mm, the flange holes appear to be 10mm, and the yoke holes appear to be 9mm. The TW bolts were 10mm. So...all of this to say is it bad the yoke and flange holes are different sizes? Would using 8mm bolts in a 9mm and 10mm be the cause for them to come loose? They were cranked down with a split washer. I don't believe they require any specific torque. If the flange hole size difference doesn't matter, I need to find some 9mm bolts and get them installed. #alwayslearning
Not that photos are needed, but always good reference.
View attachment 2494426
View attachment 2494427

your pinion flange is drilled for multiple yoke patterns.
Chances are what you are saying is 9mm, is a standard size vs metric. Toyota used 8mm early, then went to 10mm for a long stretch and then to 11mm on Land Cruisers. IIRC, mini trucks and 4Runners used 10mm for about all of them.

 

[Stumpalama]

@Stumpalama here are some photos of the carb and I don't believe I have the AC switch you referred to. On the third photo is that potentially where it would connect? Fully admit, I'm still learning. Either way, based on what you see here? Is there a possibility of modifying my carb for your solution or is that a whole new carb?

View attachment 2494329

View attachment 2494330

View attachment 2494331

Based on the info here: Land Cruiser Carburetor Identifier
You have a 1975 carb on there. It does not have the provision for the A/C idle up.
Now, I don't know if you can swap bases with a later model carb to get that capability, though I kind of doubt it.
It might be one of those things you do when the time comes to rebuild your carb and you find an FJ60 carb to replace the current one.
Though, based on your setup, that would also require a new fuel pump that recycles the extra fuel back to the tank at the pump vice at the carb like you currently have.

 

[1428Mike]

Another interesting discovery as some of you heard/witnessed (@JohnVee @landwagon @1428Mike ) my front driveshaft bolts from the yoke to flange apparently came loose during Fall Crawl and ultimately were sheered off on the trail, no damage, and fortunately, we had 4 spare bolts between us. Ordered some new bolts from Tom Woods (based on my belief it is one of his driveshafts) and got them in this week...well no bueno and more to learn. The bolts I have been using appear to be 8mm, the flange holes appear to be 10mm, and the yoke holes appear to be 9mm. The TW bolts were 10mm. So...all of this to say is it bad the yoke and flange holes are different sizes? Would using 8mm bolts in a 9mm and 10mm be the cause for them to come loose? They were cranked down with a split washer. I don't believe they require any specific torque. If the flange hole size difference doesn't matter, I need to find some 9mm bolts and get them installed. #alwayslearning
Not that photos are needed, but always good reference.
View attachment 2494426
View attachment 2494427

If it was me, FWIW, I would just drill the holes out and go with the 10mm bolts.

 

[Jakes40]

@Jakes40 @mwalls54 Just to clarify, you all drilled out the Yoke flange or the Differential flange?

Yes just drill out your pinion flange. If you have the smaller drive shaft flange I would not drill it out to 10mm your drive shaft flange will be to small. There is not enough material around the bolt hold on the drive shaft flange. I have also mixed and matched my drive shafts with small pattern on the front transfer case and large pattern on the front axle. Rear has a later model parking break to fit a DC mini truck shaft.

 

[mwalls54]

I have drilled out the pinion flange

 

[Stumpalama]

I have drilled out the pinion flange

Thats how I did it too.
I think you need to remeasure your flange holes and patterns on that yoke. It's got lots of holes in it already.

 

[Jakes40]

Thats how I did it too.
I think you need to remeasure your flange holes and patterns on that yoke. It's got lots of holes in it already.

he needs to make sure the holes are the same size on the shaft and the pinion.