69 running rough; stalls at 20 mph?! (2 Viewers)

[CBFJ]

The saga continues...a little background. After last summer's issues she spent the winter getting all fixed up and I got her back from the mechanic in May. Most of the work went to brakes and other stuff but they put a new distributor in and she was running great.

Been out of town most of summer so she sat, put about 100 mi on her. After sitting for a month, she wouldn't start. Cranking good, plenty of fuel in the carb, full choke, full gas pedal, starter fluid, nothing working.

Then I can get her to finally turn over, but need to keep the gas down to keep her running. Next day she starts easier, but still running real rough, coughing and loud.

So today she starts right up, and encouraged I drive her about 10 miles out of town, at 40 mph. As I slow to downshift, she stalls while still moving around 20 mph. I get her started again return to town, and at the first stop sign she dies and won't start. Cranking strong, but won't turn over. Again, plenty of fuel in the carb just won't fire.

So...hard starting, rough running, stalling when I take my foot off the gas. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Green Bean]

Under the theory that it is better to start by ruling out the cheap and easy stuff: do you have old gas? (may need to empty tank & replace with fresh) ; replace fuel filter; check points, rotor & condenser???

 

[CBFJ]

fresh fuel. Will check the others, thanks

 

[CBFJ]

Well, just as I thought. I don't know how to do any of that. I know it's got new points and pretty sure it got a new filter in the spring.

I was hoping the behavior of stalling while moving would indicate something pretty apparent. That and the hard starting. Seems like it's getting plenty of fuel as the carb is pretty full after choking and stepping on the gas.

 

[FJ40 MNTCRZR]

New Distributor?

Check timing, wiring etc …

 

[CBFJ]

Threw a bottle of Heet in and topped her off with 9.3 gal, drove about 20 miles and it's still driving rough and stalling. Started pretty good at the beginning, now won't start after 1 hr sitting post-drive.

 

[Green Bean]

Fuel cutoff solenoid (FCS)? Does your vehicle have an original OEM carburetor? There is a FCS with a wire that puts 12v to the carb when the key is in the "on" position. You should hear a clicking noise when you turn the key. Sometimes, it becomes unplugged and it is just a matter of reconnecting. As a test, you can run a 12v jumper wire to determine if it is working.

 

[bhsdriller]

FCS could be the culprit. But it will still drive without one if you can get it started and take off, it will just want to stall as you come to a stop.

At the 20mph or so you mention it would still run

 

[projectTuRD]

Cranking=turning over. You probably meant cranking but not firing.
Curious, because I am just getting my own CBFJ running after a driveway head/gasket replacement and wondering what I’ll be up against when I take it out for a test drive. I need to fix the brakes first, it sprung a leak somewhere in its 15 month slumber.

 

[CBFJ]

It's got a City Racer carb. will that still have the FCS? If so, same wire?
@projectTuRD yes, cranking but real hard to get her to fire.

 

[CBFJ]

You guys are amazing! We're 90% better- I checked the fcs on the City Racer and sure enough, it was connected, BUT the male end wasn't properly inserted- it was pushed above the gap. You can see it at the top of this image with the yellow connector, kind of angled up.

So it started good, drove it about 20 miles and sounds much better! The only issue is it's still idling low and dying when I come to a stop. What's next on the punch list?

Here are some more pics to show off the new stuff

 

[Green Bean]

Low/rough idle: Possibly a vacuum leak; check all vacuum hoses. Timing: can you double check to make sure the timing is good. May need to check gap on your points. Or, it could be something as simple as turning up the low idle screw???

 

[bhsdriller]

Yeah if it's just a low idle try adjusting the set point on the carb
Timing light with RPM readout is helpful here

Not wanting to idle is another thing....most common vacuum leak.
Usually gets better with choke

 

[CBFJ]

Choke actually kills it- Hammering the gas pedal keeps her running

 

[Green Bean]

On an OEM Aisin carburetor the low idle screw is hard to see. I think there is a useful YouTube video that shows the adjustment.

 

[Green Bean]

I'm not sure if the adjustments on a City Racer carburetor are the same as the OEM Aisin, but here is an explanation:

 

[CBFJ]

Thanks for the video @Green Bean - I tightened her incrementally all the way and that didn't help. On the City Racer it's the gold out of focus one in the middle of the photo. Still very rough starting. Sounds like next step is chase vacuum leak?

 

[bhsdriller]

Isn't that the air/fuel screw and not the idle adjustment one? You need the screw that the linkage actually hits/rests on

 

[CBFJ]

I was going by their website- they call it the idle adjustment screw.

2F 3F Carburetor Idle Adjustment Screw for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60 FJ62 70 Series FJ80

Carburetor idle adjustment screw with spring for Toyota Cruiser FJ40, FJ55, FJ60, and non-US FJ62, 70 Series, FJ80 with 2F or 3F engine. May not be exactly the same length as the one on your original carb, but serves the same function. All such screws have been discontinued by Toyota. OEM...

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[projectTuRD]

Glad you are figuring yours out. My fuel pump decided to die (I think) right when I got it running again