Builds 66 Lincoln Continental build thread (1 Viewer)

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64 deVille
So you didn't buy it?

Or, you already own it and decided to just not start a new one until the other is done?
 
Finally got a day on the Lincoln. Or a half day, I guess. I went into the big city to grab a throatless shear at HF 25% deal in the morning. It's my new favorite way to cut sheet metal.

I can't believe I didn't take a before pic of the inside of the deck lid. I was really happy the lid wasn't rusted through on the skin. A lot of them did. Enough that a guy makes fiberglass repops and sells them all for $3000 each. I didn't look at the inside lip when I bought it, but it wouldn't have made a difference.

It seems the way to do this stuff is to not try and do too much in one shot. It's easy to weld small parts together. It's really hard to keep everything straight and square if you try and work it too much. You can see all the seams still on my repair. I could dress them more, but all the YouTube guys say you have to use short strand fiberglass to seal the welds anyway.

Got a before picture of the better of the sides. The corner I already fixed was just lace. There wasn't much to go from. I uncrimped the skin and replaced the whole corner.



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Finished up the trunk inner structure. Patched up the front crossmember

A guy on the Suicide Slabs group got quoted $5k to fix his. Took me about 3 hours and some scrap 3/16. Mine wasn't as bad, but having looked at the structure I can't imagine someone with the right tools would take 20 hours to build it from scratch.

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Re-wired the tail lights. 1157 LED bulbs in the stock sockets. Three tail lights in a row so I got a sequential flasher unit designed for LEDs. I put the brake lights on the other circuit and put LED strips behind the fin reflectors.

Wired it all with new SXL wire. Bare crimps with shrink tube. Got a new crimper that does a good job. Shrink tube for the loom too. I tried to find label maker shrink tube, but the tube wasn't available for my label maker. I couldn't find one for less than $100 that would work so I went with regular label inside clear shrink.
I would recommend watching Superfastmatt' YouTube video on wiring.
I need to order more weatherpack parts and wire and grommets


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Media blasted the tail light housings and cleaned the grills up a bit. Blasted, treated and POR-15ed the bumper brackets. Wire wheeled the inside of the bumper, treated the rust and POR-15ed it as well. The chrome on the inside is pretty much all gone. Replaced all the hardware with grade 8 new. I don't know if I'll replace, re-chrome or just drive on these bumpers, but I couldn't just leave them trashed, and I wanted them fitted to make the tail light harness.

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Trunk is done until carpet so I put the deck lid on. Put all the stainless in the trunk except for the rocker trim. It won't fit in the Jersey hearse trunk. Gained a ton of floor space between the lid on sawhorses and the giant box of trim.

Trunk harness works with the power probe from the dash area where it terminates. Mike Bellos says wire a car from the outside in so you're not in and out alla time. Sound like an idea so I'll try it. The sound deadener is filthy. That's all crap from wire wheeling the undercarriage clean over the summer. Prolly pretty close to what my lungs look like.

Started on the first door harness. 9 wires including the door lock solenoid because I'm not doing vacuum door locks this time. Putting the bosch relays in the door for the power windows. Ford ran the giant metal relays in the trunk. They had a huge bundle of wires and vacuum hoses running through the door hinge. They also had no connectors at the hinge. I'm putting in a couple of weather pack connectors at each hinge. One pic has the old harness on the right that goes all the way into the trunk and back out to the dash. My new harness to the hinge is on the left. I still have to run up the c pillar and down the sill to the dash. Once it's done, I'll map it out on the masking paper and make 2 more just like it. Driver's door is more complicated.

Got two of the door arm rests apart. I need to replace the window switch, courtesy light switch, ashtray lights, courtesy lights and lighter sockets for all the doors. Fortunately, I had a big new bench to put them on.

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I didn't think this would come back. Door pull on passenger front was broken and bent. The gap at the crack was about 3/16. It's made of die cast white metal. I clamped it with a bar clamp and heated the inner part of the bend with a heat gun. I let it cool and reheated a couple more times. When I let the clamp off the metal stayed closed.

White metal is very brittle and can't take much heat, but it worked.

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Everything rearward of the dash is wired. Interior has the first layer of sound deadener including the roof and doors. Some areas will get a second layer. Some will get an additional 5mm sound and thermal. I want it quiet and climate controlled like the Lexus.

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Kinda screwed up. I thought the harness ran down the outside of the wheel well, next to or on the inner quarter. Nope. When I was test fitting the interior panels it became obvious the harnesses ran in channels on the insides of the wheel wells. Pretty glad I left extra wire.

Got some zip ties with Christmas tree panel clips to fix the wires to the panels.

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Started on the dash. 2 layers of sound insulation and one of thermal. Got the Restomod Air Haymaker S finish bolted in. Hoses all ran and wiring all figured out. Wiring the power inputs and wiring the Dakota Digital dash required figuring out the power distribution. I mapped out the relay box and wired it up for horn, ignition, lights, fans and fuel pump.

Lost my 8' wiring table for a couple of days to eat turkey on. Had to take a few hours off to watch my Alma mater whip on some boys from
Ohio on Saturday.

Pulled the motor. Bolted down the mounts to the crossmember. Motor on stand for wiring the engine harness.

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One 2000 GM LS harness. Pared down and circuits depinned from ECM plugs so I can route each one separately the way I want. I need to re-locate the PCM itself and I want to hide as much harness as possible.

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Offf!:hillbilly:

Need any more electrical tape?
 

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