Good riddance to this 500 cfm crap, and those leaky Man a Fre headers. The factory manifolds have their virtues.
66 FJ40 Renovation Project
- Thread starter jjacallen
- Start date
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An old dryer drum makes a great powder coating oven. I don't even have a infinite switch for the element. It gets up to 624F and stays there. The future buyer of this Cruiser may want to go with a 32/36 DGEV or something original. I am partial to the Carter YF family for sixes. Reliable, Reliable, Reliable. Consistent operation, torque and simplicity. These worked for decades on Jeep 258 c.i. up to to the 4.9 Ford. The deep float bowl is worth noting, and the overall better fuel economy is another bonus. The original carburetor would be better, but these Carters have proven themselves to be very good in my book. I doubt whatever is put on it will stay there. I just hope to god nobody swaps in a SBC. It is inevitable I guess.
I had to make a banjo fitting to run exhaust gas to the thermal choke. VHT is really good stuff by the way. You should bake it before running your parts so you get the most durable finish. Next up will be the 4 speed jabbed into the lower range T-case.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
I like your powder coating oven idea. I really like the fact you dont have to "hang" your parts. Just lift the "oven" over your work and bake. Brilliant!
Did you just bend the elements to fit?
Did you just bend the elements to fit?
@thecrazygreek:Thanks. It's nothing to be proud of, but it works. The top rim has holes to span rods for hanging objects. I will eventually get around to building a fully insulated (and regulated) one that may fit a motorcycle frame. The elements are very similar for most resistance heating, a Kenthal coil in a bed of ceramic, jacketed by a nickle plated tube of copper. You should bend these gently when they are brand new...once they have been lit up they could break or short internally. A guaranteed fail if you re-bend them. Loud pop! These coils get really hot at the surface (1,500F+) because the actual heating of the air is not very efficient. When the burner on an electric range is red and has water brought to a boil, the temperature of the element is above 800F. If you contain these temps in some refractory material you can melt metals in a crucible. The box on the side where my cord comes in is stuffed with fiberglass to keep it cooler. If you make something like this for yourself, include a ground lead like I did just for safety.
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The three speed has a smaller shaft, so a 32 mm ID bearing is needed to join a four speed transmission to the old 3 speed transfer case. (Low range is never low enough in my opinion) This cut off section of car lift ram and a big washer will work to drive the smaller bearing out. There is no bottomed shoulder on the case so setting the depth is important. Although all the parts may settle and align when tightening the shaft nut, I prefer to not have any popping noises or potential binding while I'm torquing things down. I used to always remove the seals from the bearing race in situations like this...but I have learned to relax. The fluid will cycle through the bearing over time, and it's not a bad thing to keep solid debris out.
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Here are some more pictures. Every boot and seal will be replaced on our powertrain including the PTO box.
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Together it goes....you have to be patient. Some rods help as things get closer. if it's too tight to move with gentle taps from a dead blow, it could be burs on the splines or as in my case there was wax film on that PTO gear from Australia. I should have cleaned it off. The bolts get some thread paste and some anaerobic gel will seal it tighter than a wale's butthole. Any of these two brands are very good. As soon as the surfaces get .010" or closer the gasket begins to set up. The next person who takes it apart won't have to chisel card paper, just some brake cleaner and a razor blade takes it off easily.
I like what I see. A five speed and a cast iron case would make it perfect, but this isn't too shabby.
It's now together and ready for my favorite part again...making stuff. I'm going to make a brace plate that reinforces the top of the transfer case and ties into the transmission bolt, or maybe somewhere different this time like the cone cap bolts...We'll see. The gears like to push apart and Toyota didn't give it enough material to take the cracking stresses from continuous tension under torque. Advanced Adapters "Orion", I believe were the first to recast Toyota cases with more webbing. Now their new "Atlas" cases are billet alloys and insanely heavy duty. Get it?...Orion's belt....the layout of the drive gear, idle gear, and the driven gear. * + *
It's now together and ready for my favorite part again...making stuff. I'm going to make a brace plate that reinforces the top of the transfer case and ties into the transmission bolt, or maybe somewhere different this time like the cone cap bolts...We'll see. The gears like to push apart and Toyota didn't give it enough material to take the cracking stresses from continuous tension under torque. Advanced Adapters "Orion", I believe were the first to recast Toyota cases with more webbing. Now their new "Atlas" cases are billet alloys and insanely heavy duty. Get it?...Orion's belt....the layout of the drive gear, idle gear, and the driven gear. * + *
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Anybody can hang a tab on a plate that anchors to a bolt nearby....I'm going to anchor this plate to the rigidity and strength provided by the housing, shaft, bearing, and all five transmission bolts combined. Should I powder coat this some other color besides black? Maybe it would look too showy....I don't know.
Some say this 66 case is brittle and not as good as later models. Not as soft as cases made later, is more like it. If I do something stupid while wheeling and my transfer case pops...fluid will be everywhere, but there is a good chance all of the shafts, gears, and other components will still be reusable in a replacement case. (preferably cast iron) The distortion and misalignment in the softer cases would steadily deteriorate everything inside...unbeknownst to me until a final growl just before peeling itself apart. I'd prefer my cases to not be malleable.
Some say this 66 case is brittle and not as good as later models. Not as soft as cases made later, is more like it. If I do something stupid while wheeling and my transfer case pops...fluid will be everywhere, but there is a good chance all of the shafts, gears, and other components will still be reusable in a replacement case. (preferably cast iron) The distortion and misalignment in the softer cases would steadily deteriorate everything inside...unbeknownst to me until a final growl just before peeling itself apart. I'd prefer my cases to not be malleable.
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Don't forget to drill a weep hole at the bottom where fluid spills out.
y is this here? I mean, Here this y is. It goes there. That bolt behind the shift pin has a lot of support and the pin itself is an unloaded. I'm thinking the next one I build will cover the whole top and include the speedo and park brake flange. It would need a thin spacer for the speedometer worm gear to sit correctly. I'd like a single cut out piece bent in the right places.
So the concept behind this is the chain of forces. The gear on the transmission output shaft is pressing against the idler gear at the forward wall of the bottom half of the case, not much of a structural problem there. The rotation is carried along the rearward half of the idler gear and puts pressure against the gear and out put shaft supported by the rearward wall of the housing. This space between them just so happens to be the weakest region of the case. Add years of jolting against the hanging mass, maybe poor working angles in the drive lines from an ill-conceived suspension lift, some impetuousness with some oversize tires, a small block Chevy with a crazy high stall on the converter....who really knows? The point is, the rear output is trying to splay outwards from the rear of the idler pin. Everywhere around and above that pin is likely where it wants to pop apart. Anything you can slap on there to hook it to the transmission shaft and everything around it, the better.
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My best understanding of what goes wrong and where.
Some new park brake shoes....
- Thread starter
- #56
Working out some last little details today/tomorrow, stay tuned for pics of the engine! Reassembly starts this week too!
Nearly 70% of crank pulley contact and just under 50% of the alternator pulley...so no slipping there. Less tension makes for longer lasting bearings and belts as well. It will have a Meziere inline water pump, a four core aluminum radiator and an electric fan. The 3,000+ hour pump is rebuildable. It's speed is reduced because at full duty it's designed to cool an engine displacing 7.4 liters. The Alternator is a Mean Green GM unit with tool steel shaft, roller bearings, heavy gauge copper windings, and a 300A rectifier. It will definitely keep all of the accessories fully powered.
The flywheel has been resurfaced, and the clutch seat has been cut down for proper pressure plate contact and travel. Aisin parts, no Auto-zone clutch garbage here.
The flywheel has been resurfaced, and the clutch seat has been cut down for proper pressure plate contact and travel. Aisin parts, no Auto-zone clutch garbage here.
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For the record: I have only used the words "Horizontal Blue" when referring to the original color of this Cruiser. Fluoride Blue and Horizon Blue have been tossed about as examples of what it might look like.
