Any updates?
66 FJ40 Renovation Project
- Thread starter jjacallen
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Back to Work, Starting Mechanical
For folks who were following this thread, we ran into some trouble with that Restoration Shop paint - its color laid up in layers, so as we sanded it, we started to see light and dark patches. So, we set the whole project aside and focused on some other things for a while.
Now, we're back on the Land Cruiser and hitting it hard, hoping to sell next month (June 2012). But we'll go back to the body work later, right now we want to focus on the mechanical and the chassis.
Last week, we finished cleaning up the frame: We cleaned it and sandblasted it, but didn't blast it all the way down to bright metal everywhere. We just wanted to get all loose rust and paint off it, which we did. Then, we treated it with rust converter and metal prep, and painted it with Rustoleum. After drying, we set it out in the sun to bake (Rustoleum gets really hard if you let it bake in the sun for a few days).
This week, we've been cleaning up all the bits and pieces before we go through them and replace anything that needs replacing. We built a parts washer out of an old fuel tank by cutting the top off and adding a water heater element to it, so we can get everything sparkling clean. Here we are dipping the Transfer Case:
And here she is all shiny and new!
If you think that was easy, you're wrong. You can't use degreaser or solvents in a tank like this when cleaning aluminum parts, because the electrolysis will ruin the aluminum, so there was still PLENTY of meticulous scrubbing with various sizes and shapes of brushes to get our parts to be so nice. But dipping them for a bit in hot water really helps loosen up the more stubborn goo. These have been in farm country for over 40 years, so there was some dirt on them that was hard as concrete!
Another note of caution if you use a dipping tank like this: we are planning on replacing ALL the seals on everything; if you're not planning on that, DON'T dip your parts in hot water!
Today, we tore down the motor and threw the manifolds and the oil pan into the parts washer. We inspected the bottom end, and found the Crankshaft to be tight, tight, tight! and the Camshaft to look remarkably good for its age. The timing gears are also in excellent condition, as you can see from the bottom-end photos below:
Crankshaft:
Camshaft:
Timing Gears:
We didn't dip the motor, of course, since we don't want to completely rebuild it (it's a great-running 2F). But we are changing the seals anyway, just to make sure it's all tight and clean. We did the rear seal today, front seal will be later.
As you can see, we use interdimensional hyperwarp to improve our seal-changing efficiency.
Finally, we fitted the block with new studs for the manifolds. You get a much better clamp if you use studs instead of bolts. We like them to be all the same, so after applying threadlock we used our calipers to get them all to the same depth and staked the threads. This process will not guarantee they won't come out the next time you remove the manifolds, but it helps prevent it. It also won't prevent you from removing them if you need to, though. It's done like this:
1) Screw your stud in to the desired depth
2) Back it out about 1/16 inch
3) Using a ROUND drift, of small diameter, flatten the threads right next to the block with a single blow. They don't have to be completely flattened, just slightly deformed.
4) Screw the stud back in again until it becomes stiff. Don't put a tool on it at this point, as you could damage the threads in the block.
If you use threadlock in combination with this method, you'll get studs that will stay put better, but if one breaks off it won't be such a nightmare to remove as if you had bottomed it out in the hole and got it tight with a tool...
For folks who were following this thread, we ran into some trouble with that Restoration Shop paint - its color laid up in layers, so as we sanded it, we started to see light and dark patches. So, we set the whole project aside and focused on some other things for a while.
Now, we're back on the Land Cruiser and hitting it hard, hoping to sell next month (June 2012). But we'll go back to the body work later, right now we want to focus on the mechanical and the chassis.
Last week, we finished cleaning up the frame: We cleaned it and sandblasted it, but didn't blast it all the way down to bright metal everywhere. We just wanted to get all loose rust and paint off it, which we did. Then, we treated it with rust converter and metal prep, and painted it with Rustoleum. After drying, we set it out in the sun to bake (Rustoleum gets really hard if you let it bake in the sun for a few days).
This week, we've been cleaning up all the bits and pieces before we go through them and replace anything that needs replacing. We built a parts washer out of an old fuel tank by cutting the top off and adding a water heater element to it, so we can get everything sparkling clean. Here we are dipping the Transfer Case:
And here she is all shiny and new!
If you think that was easy, you're wrong. You can't use degreaser or solvents in a tank like this when cleaning aluminum parts, because the electrolysis will ruin the aluminum, so there was still PLENTY of meticulous scrubbing with various sizes and shapes of brushes to get our parts to be so nice. But dipping them for a bit in hot water really helps loosen up the more stubborn goo. These have been in farm country for over 40 years, so there was some dirt on them that was hard as concrete!
Another note of caution if you use a dipping tank like this: we are planning on replacing ALL the seals on everything; if you're not planning on that, DON'T dip your parts in hot water!
Today, we tore down the motor and threw the manifolds and the oil pan into the parts washer. We inspected the bottom end, and found the Crankshaft to be tight, tight, tight! and the Camshaft to look remarkably good for its age. The timing gears are also in excellent condition, as you can see from the bottom-end photos below:
Crankshaft:
Camshaft:
Timing Gears:
We didn't dip the motor, of course, since we don't want to completely rebuild it (it's a great-running 2F). But we are changing the seals anyway, just to make sure it's all tight and clean. We did the rear seal today, front seal will be later.
As you can see, we use interdimensional hyperwarp to improve our seal-changing efficiency.
Finally, we fitted the block with new studs for the manifolds. You get a much better clamp if you use studs instead of bolts. We like them to be all the same, so after applying threadlock we used our calipers to get them all to the same depth and staked the threads. This process will not guarantee they won't come out the next time you remove the manifolds, but it helps prevent it. It also won't prevent you from removing them if you need to, though. It's done like this:
1) Screw your stud in to the desired depth
2) Back it out about 1/16 inch
3) Using a ROUND drift, of small diameter, flatten the threads right next to the block with a single blow. They don't have to be completely flattened, just slightly deformed.
4) Screw the stud back in again until it becomes stiff. Don't put a tool on it at this point, as you could damage the threads in the block.
If you use threadlock in combination with this method, you'll get studs that will stay put better, but if one breaks off it won't be such a nightmare to remove as if you had bottomed it out in the hole and got it tight with a tool...
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2008
- Threads
- 40
- Messages
- 1,331
- Location
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- www.oregoncruisers.com
good stuff!!
Just checking what you posted lately. My only input is that I am glad I'm not in these pictures this time. Some shots of the inspected components, checklists and recorded specs would be more my style. A side shot of the Seamaster gear profile that omits the shim rings would be an example. Maybe my use of wet tissue paper to hydraulically push out the pilot bearing. The powder coated knuckles, the condition of the ball and claw joints, the dial readings of the ring to pinion backlash........things that actually showcase what we are trying to do here. A little more this:
And a tad less of: 
And a tad less of: Ok, I'll admit the spinning engine block is pretty cool.
I hate having to make due, but sometimes it is good to keep your desperate solutions honed. If you're in a jam and don't have an acceptable tool for popping bearings or bushings out of a blind hole, wet tissue paper can hydraulic them out...better than grease especially in the case where the seals are missing or broken.
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bj40green
Tssss, tssss
Editing and photo uploading will work after posting #10. You're still a Rookie. Right now you're at #4.
Rudi
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Here are the photos that failed when I was a Rookie.
Here's a rear shot of "Roger" before we pulled him apart.
Next is the couple shots of the body repair and finish. Lots of Argon, tungsten and over one hundred holes and some steel patches.
Next is the couple shots of the body repair and finish. Lots of Argon, tungsten and over one hundred holes and some steel patches.
I don't know what is going on with that jump seat. Something had to be done....so here is the pile of high quality marine grade vinyl upholstery I stitched up with my friend's 80 year old sewing machine.
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Idaho has no shortage of people who try to force ASE fasteners into poor old Land Cruisers. Repair the threads and go with studs. The intake had a long 10mm 1.25 bolt. Not good enough, and I will make this stud myself no thanks to living in rural Idaho.
9.62 mm isn't going to give me much thread purchase. Fatten, die, reheat, quench, and then anneal.
