62 air conditioning problems

[801FJ62]

Hi folks. The air conditioning on my 1988 FJ62 doesn't work at all. It's still winter time here in Salt Lake, but I want to get the AC fixed before summer's here. Last summer was hell in this car, no pun intended.

That being said, where do I start? I haven't a clue as to what's wrong with it. I'm pretty clueless when it comes to these kind of things, but hey, that's what forums are for huh? Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[klinetime574]

Check if your compressor spins when you press the A/C switch. The compressor pulley rotates with the engine, but the clutch needs to engage to spin the compressor. So with the engine running and the A/C switch off, the front of the compressor pulley will be stationary with the belt going around the outside. When the switch is turned on the whole face should be spinning.

Has your FJ62 been converted to R134a?

May need a shop or a buddy thats good with A/C to check the system for leaks, etc.

HTH

 

[3_puppies]

the compressor will only lock up if there is enough refrigerant in the system.

you could hot wire the clutch to see if it works but only for a few seconds.

 

[dermali]

A/C is really a very complex puzzle to deal with worse than SUDOKU.
Does your newer FJ62 still have the indicator glass above the drier so you can see if the refrigerant is flowing?

When A/C is on there should be a yellowish/green flow without any bubbles which should stop (not immediately but after some seconds) after you switch of A/C.

That's how I checked if my refrigerant is ok on my 1981 BJ60.

Shouldn't A/Cs switch off automatically when the outside temperature is below 35-40° F?

 

[chitown40]

Yellowish/green flow?

I'm not so sure about that. That may be some dye in your system from a previous leak check.

For the OP, it's hard to say what's exactly wrong without knowing what is and isn't working. If you're clutch on the compressor is engaged, look at the sight glass. If it is low you will most likely see bubbles and it will be cloudy. If it is still clear you may be completely empty, but then most likely your clutch on the compressor won't engage. The sight glass should tell you quite a bit. Report back with more info.

Lastly, I personally run my a/c about one a month during the winter. I turn the temp to warm when I do it, but it keeps things moving about in the system. I run it for about 5-10 mins when driving just to cycle the compressor.

 

[LB LandCruiser]

Check if your compressor spins when you press the A/C switch. The compressor pulley rotates with the engine, but the clutch needs to engage to spin the compressor. So with the engine running and the A/C switch off, the front of the compressor pulley will be stationary with the belt going around the outside. When the switch is turned on the whole face should be spinning.

Has your FJ62 been converted to R134a?

May need a shop or a buddy thats good with A/C to check the system for leaks, etc.

HTH

Do the above to see what works and what doesn't. If the compressor is no good, i suggest CoolStream: ask for Rex. At least replace the compressor and drier. Don't go to Autozone/Kragen or the dealer. The compressor from the dealer, etc. will be a later model compressor and won't work. Rex took care of me with the right parts for less than anyplace else. I still run R12 in my AC.

 

[klinetime574]

I ordered some parts from Coolstream as well awesome service. Got my A/C working again. Biggest mistake was unhooking the lines when I rebuilt the motor. However long ago that was. Big mistake!

 

[801FJ62]

Thanks for the replies! I turned on my switch, and sure enough, the compressor clutch didn't do anything. I didn't see any refrigerant in the dryer window either. Is there a way to bench test the A/C compressor? Maybe I just have a bad switch. :/

 

[Coolstream]

You could try this to help diagnose: connect a jumper wire from the BAT + to the wire running to the compressor. Have the engine running and the A/C switched on. The front hub should now be spinning. Check the sight-glass for bubbles and feel the air coming out the vents to see if it's cool/cold. Only run it long enough to check these items, just a minute or two. Avoid the temptation to leave that wire connected if the air is blowing cold as damage to the system will occur! If it's blowing cool or cold, we know the compressor is pumping, so we need to figure out if it's low on charge or something else is causing it not to engage.

 

[Smplybttr]

Last summer, I put an a/c system in my 1990 62. I bought the system from SOR who cut it out of an 88. After I had everything in, my clutch wouldn't engage and I couldn't figure it out, but was told that it was because the low pressure switch wouldn't let it kick in. I charged the system and it keeps me nice and dry where it counts.

All of that being said, I'd have someone who knows, check to see if you have any refrigerant in the system. If so, I'd have them test for leaks and recharge it. If it doesn't have any, or is really low, I'd have them purge it and update to 134. Might as well. It's easier to find and the adapters are less than $20.

 

[pandasfj]

801 your best bet is to get a low pressure gauge for the type of connection thats on your low side hose.Most likely as prev. post your low press.switch is not making due to no refrigerant or lack of.A gauge w/hoses to fill system would be good,use soap bubbles around connections and fittings to find any leaks,goodluck

 

[The Machinist]

the compressor will only lock up if there is enough refrigerant in the system.

you could hot wire the clutch to see if it works but only for a few seconds.

You could try this to help diagnose: connect a jumper wire from the BAT + to the wire running to the compressor. Have the engine running and the A/C switched on. The front hub should now be spinning. Check the sight-glass for bubbles and feel the air coming out the vents to see if it's cool/cold. Only run it long enough to check these items, just a minute or two. Avoid the temptation to leave that wire connected if the air is blowing cold as damage to the system will occur! If it's blowing cool or cold, we know the compressor is pumping, so we need to figure out if it's low on charge or something else is causing it not to engage.

I am trying to sort out whats wrong with my system, and I tried this because it wont engage from the dash switch. The clutch engaged when I jumped it, but the air was not cold. Through the sight glass I noticed bubbles after I turned the truck off. So would it be wrong to assume I am just very low on refrigerant, or could there be other problems?

 

[dermali]

Will an a/c system which is for R12 leak if you use R134a instead due to wrong gaskets and O-rings?

I was told actually if a system is already converted to R134a there are other connectors for refilling and the manometers?

 

[pandasfj]

I am trying to sort out whats wrong with my system, and I tried this because it wont engage from the dash switch. The clutch engaged when I jumped it, but the air was not cold. Through the sight glass I noticed bubbles after I turned the truck off. So would it be wrong to assume I am just very low on refrigerant, or could there be other problems?

Yeah,most likely your system is low on refrigerant,usually when you see bubbles is only while compressor is running or it can be so low only vapor is passing by sight glass. A good rule is to always use a pressure gauge on lowside and highside to see if you have any refrigerant to start with.Hope this helps some.Also leaks are due to wear n tear of hoses and orings/gaskets dispite what refrigerant you use.

 

[The Machinist]

I'm taking my truck back to the shop tomorrow morning, so if anyone can help me with my previous post, its much appreciated!

Dermali, quoted from here: "To minimize the chance of leaks, the new blue O-rings should be used. The older black O-rings used with R12 may promote leaks."

 

[The Machinist]

Yeah,most likely your system is low on refrigerant,usually when you see bubbles is only while compressor is running or it can be so low only vapor is passing by sight glass. A good rule is to always use a pressure gauge on lowside and highside to see if you have any refrigerant to start with.Hope this helps some.Also leaks are due to wear n tear of hoses and orings/gaskets dispite what refrigerant you use.

I only noticed actually bubbles after everything was off, but while it was running it looked like if you were to take some light oil and put a drop on a piece of glass, then blow on it; or like ripples on a pond from wind, so obviously the compressor is still pumping.

Thanks for the reply btw!

 

[tonka az]

This was my most recent fix. Same situation. The upper and lower valves were shot. I thought it was low coolant too. Idk if that helps...

 

[tonka az]

Ok, I need a new shop....my a/c is out again. Per the repair manual, for looking in the glass, if-

1- bubbles present in sight glass, you have insufficient about of refrigerant, so check for leak with gas leak tester

2- no bubbles present in sight glass, there is none, too much, or sufficient refrigerant, so refer to items 3 and 4

3- no tempature difference between compressor inlet and outlet, your refrigerant is empty or nearly empty, so evacuate and charge system, then check for leaks

4- tempature between compressor inlet and outlet is noticeably different, theres proper or too much refrigerant, refer to items 5 and 6

5- immediately after air conditioner is turned off, refrigerant in sight glass stays clear, you have too much refrigerant, so discharge excess

6- when the air conditioner is turned off, refrigerant foams and then stays clear, you have proper amount of refrigerant.

Using this helped me with my issue. Its worth a shot.

 

[dermali]

Hello,

if you are looking for a good shop and you are located in Phoenix, Az you should try COOLSTREAM in Tucson, AZ, that's just around the corner!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/members/coolstream.html

 

[maat]

how much refridgerant does the average 60 series take if the system is empty to start with?