60s--what to look out for?

[chiz45]

I've got an 80, mostly stock. I've got an OME heavy suspension ready for install, 33s, and Hanna Sliders on the way. I was checking the paper the other day, and found an '85 for sale cheap. SO i've got a few questions for the 60s gurus, who also have 80 experience:

1. how different are these from 80s?
2. for a 1/2 banana guy (me), am i biting off more than i can handle?
3. purpose: off road beater vehicle.

 

[Doc]

I own both, so let me stab at it.

1. VERY. But in a good way, less complex.

2. I'm a half to one guy myself. These guys here have helped me through a fuel pump swap (simple) in the 60, all the way to a knuckle rebuild (difficult) in the 80. As long as it's not a daily driver and you can afford to let it sit a day or two, you'll be fine.

Make sure the motor runs stong. These things are really hard to kill if the motor is in good order. My 60 has actually run more days than my 80 because of down time for the knuckle re-build and what not.

The 60 is much easier to work on, not so much electrical stuff. Things are more plainly laid out. I think that for no other reason than to build your mechanical skills you should buy the 60 and do a few small preventative maintenance kinds of things. Learn to do a knuckle on it, learn to do a tune up on it, etc... it's really helped me out in that way.

 

[VTCruiser]

No experience with 80s, but 60's are a much less complicated vehicle from the carb'd I-6 to the manual transmission, windows and locks and the leaf suspension. I think its a great "starter" vehicle for some one who wants to learn more especially if it won't be a DD.

As for what to look for?.....well RUST, for one, in the usual places (everywhere but especially teh rear quarters). It also depends on how cheap it is, hell i'd take just about anything for free (except junk's mama )so its all about what you are getting for the money. As for drivetrain, i'll leave that one to the gassers out there...

 

[chiz45]

$1800 obo. i'm tempted...but $1800 can get me a new swing out tire carrier OR rear ARB for my 96!

 

[swank60]

How many miles are on it?

Since it's not going to be a daily driver, you won't have to be under the thing all the time with the stress of needing to get somewhere. That's a good thing.

First thing I would do is check the plugs and oil to see what condition they are in. Climb up under it and look for oil leaks - also check for a leak in the power steering pump (that's a common problem) and the transmission and transfer case.

Ask the owner about oil consumption, oil change intervals and service intervals. Look at the tires for unusual wear. Climb up under it and knock on the frame and look for rust everywhere. Also check the condition of the exhaust system, and make sure the cat looks good.

If you can take it a little further than that, do a vac test on the intake manifold - there's a good tech write up here somewhere about what to look for, I think. Also do a compression test - wet and dry - very important. If you can't do any of these, pay a mechanic $50 to go over it - that's cheaper than finding out you've got a $3k engine rebuild in 6 weeks.

If you plan on keeping it tagged and inspected, and if you have to have a smog test done in your area, have it put on a exhaust gas analyzer and see what comes up. A competent tech should be able to tell you what the readings mean. If things are afoul, and it won't pass a smog test, don't mess with it. If you don't have smog testing, still take it in for the same thing and see what the results are. If the HCs and CO is crazy high, that means there's a mechanical problem you're going to need to work out right away. High numbers on the Nox can mean a bad cat or EGR problems.

Run a carfax report on it, too. If it's ever failed a smog test, it'll show up in the report (not everything does, though, like wrecks, etc...)

Here's the thing - I'm a 60 owner. I love my truck, honestly, but it's not for everyone. The ride is ROUGH. There's a ton of work that you have to do to these things. Sure, they keep running and running (mine has 205k on it) but you have to work on them to keep them going. You buy a 60 because you love it, and you want to take care of it, and because you're not afraid to work on it. Things are breaking on the 60s now because of the high mileage/age, and it's not stuff you can run up to NAPA and grab a lot of the time. (It's taken me 5 trips and a good deal of time to get the right pulley and belt for my alternator - putting the third belt on it tonight and I hope it fits...) - and the parts are not cheap.

Think hard about it. You may honestly be happier with cool toys for your 80, and the time spent working on the 60 might be better spent on your 80.

 

[patride71]

not to give you a total horror story, but my bio might give you some pause on your purchase....i bought a 60 without doing my homework first. i really wish i had found this website first and done some thorough research before my purchase. i am lucky if i am 1/2 of a banana on a good day too. i have had to replace the crankshaft pulley and the igniter since i bought it 3 months ago. these parts are not easy to come by just like swank touched on. i still love driving it though. it is rough as hell, but man nothing is better than bouncing around in that rig. it is addicting. my wife loves it too, which is always a plus. when it is running i just find excuses to go drive it around. i say go for it if it checks out ok since it won't be your dd.

i made the mistake of getting one for my dd without the know how or $ to really get mine in tip top shape. so when it is on the blink my wife has to take me to work and pick me up.
i feel like i am back in school and my mom is dropping me of at school!

good luck with your choice!

 

[chiz45]

i get the picture. As much as i would love to have an 80 and 60, i am seeing that the 60 might be too much for me. I will still check it out, if the guy calls me back, just to see. I've never been in anything but an 80, 100, and a 45.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

In many ways, my 60 is my favorite Cruiser. It just feels closer to the core, without being the PIA that daily driving the 40 would be. It is much more like a 40 than like an 80. The wagons in general are superior vehicles-roomy, reliable, and appropriate for a family. If you can only have one, get an 80, but if you need a second the 60 is a great choice. Nice ones are going fairly cheap which is a big plus. Mine has 195k miles and runs like the day it was new. The things to look for are 1 owner vehicles and maintence records. Mine was originally purchased about 10 miles from my house, lived it's whole life in Sacramento and came with service records. I bought it with 179k for $3000. It needs a new stereo. They are remarkable vehicles, and possibly the most reliable Land Cruiser ever sent to the USA. If your mechanical skills are not up to snuff, though, 60 series ownership gets expensive fast since an older vehicle will always need something. $1800 is a great price if it doesn't need major work and isn't rusty. Plan on doing a knuckle job and new wheel bearings. Look carefully for leaks in the power steering. Check the transfer case oil-the seal breaks down over time and the oil leakes into the transmission. If you run the t-case dry, that will be expensive. If it has major body rust, then run away, there are better ones out there.

One other thing-If you are going to off-road it, you should learn to work on it yourself. If you buy it, spend 4-6 months changing out all fluids, redoing the cooling system, new hoses and belts, complete knuckle maintence, new brakes, good tune up. Then you can think about off-roading and the modifications that go with that. All Land Cruisers are reliable, but not low maintence.