60 Series Audiophiles, What size speakers?

[workingdog]

OldWineo,

You have another picture with a little more context - I like the idea, but I can't tell what the h*** is going on there.

Peter (New Wineo)

 

[euclid]

Here's my setup:

• Eclipse deck with aux input, CD, MP3 ect.
• Minijack splitter to use the aux input for my Ipod or satalite
• MB Quart 5 1/4's in the doors, stock location. See this thread for how to space the window out and make room for a deeper speaker.
• Infinity Kappa 6 1/2 mounted cheap and easy with MDF
• All four speakers powered by a 4 channel 200 watt Rockford Fosgate amp.
• JL Audio dual voice coil 8" subs in homemade boxes. The boxes are the same height as the wheel wells. The subs are down fireing, in a sealled box with exactly 1 cubic foot of air space.
• Subs powered by a 400 watt MTX amp, bridged. Deck has a seperate sub output. Both amps are under the passenger side seat. The 2 big ass fuses are accessible from the driver seat if I'm gonna drive into deep water.

The Eclipse deck gives me the flexibility I wanted. I can make Tool sound like it is supposed to, and with a bit of tuning listen to the Dead like I'm in the Hundred Year Hall with them. The deck has a parametric EQ on it that I don't use.

It's all powered off of the 2nd battery. If I didn't have a second battery I would have added a 1 farad capacitor to keep my lights from dimming. Not an issue now.

I pulled the entire interior out when I installed the system. Every source cable runs on one side of the truck, power cables run on the other. All cables run through plastic conduit. This is key to the system working for a long time.

I double layered the carpet padding in the whole truck, and installed dynamat extreme in every space I could reach. I didn't know about the roofing supply store cheap version of dynamat back then.

I wouldn't call it audiophile quality, but it defiantly rocks.

To me the key is to plan the whole system and do it all at once. Adding a deck today, speakers later, then a sub, then an amp makes for a poorly designed system, and especially means the wiring is gonna be piece meal. Wiring it all at once, soldering all the connections and running the wires right makes a huge step towards a nice system.

 

[ducatiman81211]

62 stereo pain in the #*!

The owner before me butchered my door panels, and cut out any mounting points for the receiver I could have used. He had some huge system, and chopped up door panels as well making my basic install, a 3 week project. What a hassle! So, maybe it would have been a pain just stoc k but this was ridiculous!

 

[chukardog]

Euclid,

Nice, I would love to have seen a write up on your install. perhaps I will do one when I get my truck back. I plan on Dynamatting the whole rig anyway so I might as well install everything while the interior is out.
The 1 Farad capacitor is a good idea, where in the system should I locate it?

 

[euclid]

The cap goes in line on your power supply. As close to the amp(s) as possible. I'd install the system, then add one if necessary. Unless you listen to music with lots of bass all the time you probaly won't need it. A new alternator also helped in my system. I don't see any dimming of the lights at all.

I'll look through my pictures. I may have some from the install.

 

[euclid]

BTW, I do use the time alignment on the deck. Of all the super nice features on my deck, I think that's the one I like the most. The trucks are so cavernous that without some alignment most stuff sounds muddy everywhere. I listen to A LOT of live stuff, so it also helps there.

 

[chukardog]

Euclid,

By time alignment you mean delay, correct? I was thinking about this very problem. Unless my head unit has this I may need to look at a DSP processor or prologic unit. Hmmm..

 

[Amber00Dak]

depending on the unit, the time alignment will also adjust frequencies to optimize the speakers performance. usually you just place a microphone on the headrest of the drivers seat and let the unit do the work but some need operators support.

as far as caps go, theyre a waste. go with the "big 3" and you will benefit in more areas than just the stereo and have one less component in the system

good luck

 

[cabron]

Read my ROTW the peel n seel from Lowes works well if installed right. It is the only way to achieve good midbass from the components. EUCLID good idea on the plastic conduit, I would have definitely done that if I would have thought of it. I'm sure a capacitor would definitely help, but from my experience I listen to alot of bass induced tracks with no dimming. I dont know if it has something to do with having a brand new OEM alternator, voltage regulator, and a new battery. My Alpine doesnt have time alignment unforutnately, it was the only thing I really wanted in my unit too! I got too good of a deal to pass it up though. Fortunately my soundstage is accurate, on live tracks it hits dead middle when it should. I do recommend it though .

 

[euclid]

My HU doesn't have the pink noise feature (microphone, sets up time alignment itself). It has pre-set adjustments for a SUV, Sedan, Wagon Ect. I experimented with the different ones until I liked it.

This is my only complaint about Eclipse. I waited several weeks to get my deck, speaking to their tech support several times before I finally pulled the trigger. They told me the deck would have the automatic time alignment, as well as several other features that the deck didn't have. Later versions of my deck do have it. They don't have good product documentation. They do make amazing gear, and their warranty procedure is really good too.

 

[Cruzerman]

isn't '60 series' and 'audiophile' an oxymoron?

I tend to agree with this, at least in my FJ60. Between the road noise (M/T tires), wind noise, and exhaust noise (I have a rather loud exhaust), the thought of audiophile sound just doesn't jive. It ain't no Lexus.

This doesn't mean I didn't put in a decent stereo. I just didn't go for the ultra-high end units. I put in what I thought was appropriate and I think it sounds as good as anything is going to given the environment. Additionally, I'm not afraid of damge from offroading, dust, moisture, etc. And I don't lose sleep over it getting ripped off.

As for the ipod interface, I personally thought about this and decided against it. First of all, this seemed to add considerably to the cost of the deck, at least for one that had a real ipod controller. Additionally, I know myself. I'm not going to take the ipod with me everytime I get out of the truck, so it's just something else to get ripped off.

I opted for a unit that could play mp3/wma CDs. At 128K VBR encoding, you can fit about 20 CDs worth of music on a single 10 cent disc. With a cheap CD holder on the visor, I have many hundred CDs worth of music available to me and who cares if they get ripped off or damaged. JMHO.

 

[beaufort-fj60]

My door speakers have been underwater a few times.. and they still work!

 

[philos1]

someone asked about rear sub enclosures- here's mine in place of the bottle jack location. I still need to seal/cover it, but you get the idea. It has a "step" so that it fits in the quarter panel, yet only uses a minimal amount of cabin space (stays within the wheel well zone).

 

[philos1]

sound deadening helps too, BTW.

 

[flybynight]

euclid do you have picks of your boxes?

 

[TemboTusk]

I'm using a 20 year old original radio with my Ipod connected directly to the amp under the back seat. Great sound and no one wants steal my gear! Not to mention not having to deal with cds or tapes. Speakers in the front and back doors; even with the roar of the exhaust, it sounds great.

 

[Amber00Dak]

for anyone who plans on using Dynamat, do a search for RaamMat and Ensolite foam. i think the site is www.raamaudio.com. its awesome stuff and costs alot less than Dynamat.

 

[oldwineo]

OldWineo,

You have another picture with a little more context - I like the idea, but I can't tell what the h*** is going on there.

Peter (New Wineo)

Sorry about the picture. I know it doesn't show much, but there isn't much to see. Thats the idea.

I could pull the panel off and show you what it looks like inside, but I have my hands full right now, Just blew a head gasket in the ol' 350.

What I did with the Sub was, set it into a thick piece of particle board and attached the board to the support ribs behind the panel. Looks alot like the other picture posted with the Sub box but its built in.

I'll be out fishing for salmon/tuna all weekend, but I'll try to send you a new pic soon if I get a chance.

 

[phoenixrider]

for any sub box, if you tighter sound, coat the inside and out with fiberglas resin. Will make the wood water proof as well, specialy nice if using PB

 

[Amber00Dak]

for any sub box, if you tighter sound, coat the inside and out with fiberglas resin. Will make the wood water proof as well, specialy nice if using PB

coating a box with resin will have no effect on sound at all. if enough is used it will waterproof the box, but it doesnt really matter because chances are the sub isnt waterproof and thats the whole reason the box is there to begin with