Builds 60 guy does a 100 series LC... (1 Viewer)

[gregnash]

Ok I will take a pic when I get the laptop charged again but I did a quick run with TIS running around town and captured one of the misfires. This time it was on cylinder #1 but never actually gave me a DTC or anything like that. I am curious as to what this actually means??? No misfire RPM noted and from watching it, misfire registered for a good 10 secs on that cylinder, it seems to be there around normal idle. This is regardless of being in park or drive, right around 660rpm (is that low)?

Luckily my buddy says he doesn't need the laptop back for a little while so I can run some more tests to see what is going on but not exactly sure why I saw a misfire on cylinder #5 the other night and then #1 tonight. Both with no RPM registered, no DTC, just a note in the live monitor of a 1 in the cylinder for a good 10-15 seconds, maybe more, and then it disappears to not return.

Kinda bummed that there is not more customization in the TIS for 98 but sounds like there really wasn't much until 2003?
Also, put in an order with Graham Toyota last week on Friday for the door lock sensors (both PS and DS) only to have the charge fall off my account today after I had sent a status update email on Tuesday evening when nothing had change from "NEW" on there site for the order. Guess I will be going elsewhere.

 

[gregnash]

YEAH!!!!!

The other day I got fed up with my locks giving me grief every time I used a fob. Read through just about the entire thread of the Door Lock Actuator Replacement trying to determine if my issue was truly the door lock actuator being weak (which the lock was weak) or if it was the lock sensors. I came to the conclusion that it was the weak door lock not being able to reset the lock fully to the UNLOCK position so when I open the doors the alarm activates.

Hunting through the thread I found a list of a couple parts that would work
- the motor itself (small DC motor FC-280PT-22125 that had the brass collar) which can be found on ebay or amazon for anywhere from $5 to $15
- Aisin full lock assembly from places like ROCKAUTO for about $100+, or
- some have found that the 97-01 Toyota Camry actuator will work (with a swap of the lock arm) for quite a bit cheaper (like $60 for the Aisin)

Since I wanted to get this done before the weekend as I am having a remote start installed on Tuesday I found the quickest shipping to me (guaranteed) was the Amazon motor with my PRIME account. Last night I got the motor and set to the task of taking everything apart. No pictures but a good 2hrs later I had everything back together and a strongly working door lock!

Suffice it to say the hardest part of this was remembering all the clips and things that needed to move out of the way to get to the actual lock actuator and pull it from the door (not completely). Once it is out of the door shell you can access the three screws that hold the ACTUAL actuator assembly to the whole lock assembly. Next hardest part was the heat cycling to get the adhesive to release on the body of the actuator. I ended up using an Xacto knife to cut part of the two pieces apart and then it popped pretty easily. Once that is done you have access to everything easily and can swap motors within seconds. After that was waiting for the Gorilla Glue to cure some (a good 30 minutes on its own) and then just for some added strength I wrapped the actuator case in some duct tape to hold it seeing as the glue needs a good 24hrs to fully cure.

All through the process I reconnected the motor and switch assembly to ensure everything was working properly. Done it before where I put everything back together only to have forgotten a plug or not have something work properly. While I was there I sprayed some dry teflon lube in the window tracks to help things along and sprayed the door lock sensor with some electrical contact cleaner. Reassembly took maybe 15 minutes for everything and tested the doors a few times, SUCCESS no issues with the alarm (knock on wood) and the fob is working perfectly!!! I was curious to see if letting it sit overnight would cause any issues and am happy to say NADA! In the future, just to save myself the heartache of having to split the old actuator assembly I will probably just purchase the Camry ones and go from there to make the process simple and easy.

 

[gregnash]

Random occurrence this morning. Took Alita to get her tires rotated and grab the warranty on them since the PO didn’t get it. Ran across BeBe and her new owners doing the same and getting new rims (still 15”) on her.

 

[gregnash]

Finally got around to replacing the Heater T's and good thing I did. Hot side literally came apart in my hand as I was attempting to get the hose off it. But man was this job a PITA!! All together doing only took maybe an hour and a half but the longest part was waiting for the engine to cool.

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Tell tale pink staining around end of hoses....
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

And the break... once I got that size taken care of the left side of the T broke as well. Didn't disintegrate like the right but still busted easily.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

And the aftermath!!
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Got everything back together, filled her up with about 3/4 a gallon of pink stuff and let her idle in the driveway while I cleaned up the garage floor. Seemed like SOOOO much more came out of the system but that was all she wanted to take when I was trying to burp her. Luckily I had a large piece of cardboard that I placed under the truck to kinda catch everything. Quick run around town and the system is rock solid at mid-line and blowing nice hot air!

 

[gregnash]

And while I was in the engine compartment I randomly placed my hand on the throttle cable and noticed this... This does not seem like it is normal and should be tighter???

 

[s0me0ldt0ys]

Just so I am clear on this, you removed the door lock actuator assembly from the door...opened it up and replaced the motor inside it? I am curious about this, since my driver's door lock actuator has failed. I was about to buy the Aisin replacement off of Rock Auto, but I like to tinker.

 

[medtro]

And while I was in the engine compartment I randomly placed my hand on the throttle cable and noticed this... This does not seem like it is normal and should be tighter???

It could use an adjustment but it probably doesn't matter since the cable is a back up. I have driven mine with throttle cable not connected to throttle body.

 

[gregnash]

Just so I am clear on this, you removed the door lock actuator assembly from the door...opened it up and replaced the motor inside it? I am curious about this, since my driver's door lock actuator has failed. I was about to buy the Aisin replacement off of Rock Auto, but I like to tinker.

Hope you like some reading... Definitely something to tinker with if you don't mind the door being unusable for a while..

Door Lock Actuator Replacement

I had the normal symptoms of a door lock actuator gone bad (many threads on this) so I went about investigating this issue over the weekend. I was hoping I could find something that could be remedied by a little bit of cleaning / maintenance, but that wasn't the case. Removal of the door...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[gregnash]

It could use an adjustment but it probably doesn't matter since the cable is a back up. I have driven mine with throttle cable not connected to throttle body.

Mine is a 98 so I thought it was purely cable driven vs. 2003+ which is electronic (Drive by Wire???)??

 

[medtro]

Mine is a 98 so I thought it was purely cable driven vs. 2003+ which is electronic (Drive by Wire???)??

Mine is a 99 UZJ100.

 

[gregnash]

Well the locks/alarm gave me havoc for a day for some reason. Would set the alarm off every time I tried to unlock the doors, locks would wig out when I got in and started the truck (lock, unlock) and then suddenly last night the went back to functioning normal. Same thing this morning. My PS door lock no longer UNLOCKS from the outside now. Feels like something is stuck in there so I am going to have to get in the door and see if I can tell what is going on. So that may be playing part in whatever is going on.

Today I dropped it off at my buddies shop to have him install the remote start with door lock control. Got a call about 4:30 and buddy is asking me if I need the truck tomorrow. My response "Why is she giving you grief??" to which he answered, sorta. Basically, they got the remote start installed and all setup and working but the EWD lock diagram that came with the setup apparently is super vague, apparently only giving them a couple wires to connect to for control and that said wires are located in the black connector for the door lock ECU. He then said, "So we start pulling apart the PS kick panel and glove box only to find that there are like 5 different BLACK connectors with colored wires we are looking for. We think we know which ECU it is but its like at the back of all the ECUs there and don't want to start digging into that to only find out its not."

Anyways, got the truck back for the time being and they are calling CompuStar to try and get a better wiring diagram. I am on here looking for a better one too to 1.) find the location, and 2.) figure out what wires they need (which I think @Ayune gave me).
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

 

[s0me0ldt0ys]

Thanks for the link, I did some reading. I just ordered one of the little DC motors off of EBAY. For 10$ invested I don't think I can go wrong.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for the link, I did some reading. I just ordered one of the little DC motors off of EBAY. For 10$ invested I don't think I can go wrong.

Mind you... that motor that I linked will only work for 98-02 (I believe) the 03-07 have basically the same motor, minus the brass collar AND the shaft is D shaped.

 

[s0me0ldt0ys]

Yeah, much like you...I went from an 1985 FJ60, to a 1999 100 series. I greatly miss my 60, although it went to a good home. This 100 series just works better for me how we are, and are wanting to use our Landcruiser.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah, much like you...I went from an 1985 FJ60, to a 1999 100 series. I greatly miss my 60, although it went to a good home. This 100 series just works better for me how we are, and are wanting to use our Landcruiser.

Right! I am in the exact same boat. Was good to see the ole girl last weekend but damn did I get some heartache from seeing her and then watching the techs throw new rims on her (blacked out pro-comps, not my style).

Anyways, Alita, like yours, just works better for what we got going on and into the future. Didn't want another big project vehicle but she is turning out to be a bit of one.

Last night I pulled apart the passenger door to see what is going on with that lock cylinder as I can only LOCK from the PS door, trying to turn to the UNLOCK the cylinder acted like it was stuck about a week after I brought her home. Couldn't see anything binding the linkage, nothing broken, so I took some electrical contact spray and cleaned from inside the door and inside the cylinder itself. SHE WORKS!!!!

Cylinder must have been SERIOUSLY gunked up inside. After spraying the cleaner in the cylinder, I ran the key in/out a few times and resprayed from both side. Ran the key in/out and then turned it and she went without issue!!! Tried a few more time and all seemed good, no more gunked feeling. Even tried this morning when it was all of 23* out and it worked just fine.

The remote start has been hit or miss a few times. Always receives the signal as the radio and dash lights are on. This morning I tried it while I was standing on my porch and listened to the process. Basically it sounds like it turns to ACC, then ON then Starts the engine. It all happens within like 2 seconds, but it sounded like the fuel pump dumped TOO MUCH gas into the engine before starting and the engine bogged for a second and wouldn't catch. I have only heard it do that twice so far but something of note.

Ended up purchasing the 1998 LC EWD book off ebay so my installer can use that to find the proper box that for the door lock control without tearing everything apart behind the glove box. Had planned on picking up all the books anyways so just an extra push. Should have that all taken care of in another week or so. For now, the remote start is nice!!! My kitchen is close enough to where I park in the driveway that I can usually hear the engine running. So I can hit the remote start from where we hang our keys and I can hear it start. Then walk out 5 mins later and have a toasty vehicle.

 

[gregnash]

Alright, EWD book should be here tonight!! Talked with my installer and will be dropping off on Thursday to get the rest of it handled. Noticed that once the truck is running that the key fob no longer works. Don't know if this is a security feature or something to do with the OE system. Will see once the CompuStar fob is programmed for the key functions.

This weekend the wife and I went out of town and took the LC, have to say it is nice having a vehicle she is ready to jump into. While she said she loved my 60, I doubt she really did. This is more modern thus she feels more comfortable getting into it as there are modern amenities in it AND she always said how slow the 60 was. While we were driving around to different things, I noticed two oddities that I am going to have to try and track down.

First one may be related to above, have talked with my installer but he said he had never heard of such an issue. For the remote start, first attempt in the morning usually fails (like 98% of the time). I have heard the truck go to start, engine catch like she has started, but then it bogs almost as though the fuel pump is still dumping fuel into the cylinders. The truck ROARS to life for a second (like on all starts) and then bogs and dies. I then kill it with the remote start, give it a couple seconds and try again. This usually results in a just fine start, only the very first of the day seems to not want to do it properly??? Rest of the day it starts just fine, but for some reason this first doesn't "catch". Thoughts? I will try and get a video on my phone tomorrow of it doing this.

Second one is that when going over speed bumps in parking lots, I get a suspension clunk in the front. It is almost like I got over the bump and as I am coming over it the wheels are still in the air but the shocks suddenly extend and I get, what we call in mountain bike, a top out CLUNK where the shock is hitting the max extension suddenly like the rebound is too fast. I know that my upper ball joint boots are toast and there is little to no grease in there (will be replacing soon). But not sure where to even start as this really only happens over speed bumps, speed doesn't seem to matter (slow or slightly faster). Thoughts?

 

[kruisinkid]

read your post last night, was just reading this in another thread.....

So quick update. I had blown the ign fuse in the passenger kick pannel hence no swith wire 12v. Changed that and followed the wiring diagram advice and put in an aftermarket relay. WOW - it starts easier and doesnt stall after first starting when really cold (it use to). Also it had a little hesitation off idle and that is gone to! So I had been driving around with a poor connection across the EFi fuse for a while. Thanks so much for the information. Big thumbs up!

so maybe change out your efi fuse and or relay? that quote is from the medtro immobilizer thread.

 

[gregnash]

read your post last night, was just reading this in another thread.....



so maybe change out your efi fuse and or relay? that quote is from the medtro immobilizer thread.

Interesting. I will have to check it out, I have seen that thread pop up a few times. This morning went out to try and video it and the starter decided to give me grief for the first time in WEEKS. LOL.

 

[gregnash]

And day two of CLICK in the morning... LOL!! Weeks with no issues and now she wants to give me grief.

Tomorrow will be putting in an order with @cruiseroutfit for some of the front axles stuff. Want to get this taken care of sooner than later, may just try the new hub flanges for the time being to see how much of my play it gets rid of an if it influences/changes the vibration between 55mph and 70mph under load. Since I will have that all off I will inspect the bearings and brass bushing/needle bearings to see what everything looks like (fingers crossed it is in good order) then if needed grab new stuff from them next go round.

Going to grab the front lower bushing for the front diff too as well as some new ball joint boots. Grabbed a small HF air hammer/chisel to get that bugger out and will rent a ball joint press to press it in. Hopefully between the two things (axle work and diff bushing) that will eliminate a good major, if not all, my drivetrain clunk!

 

[gregnash]

YEAH!!! Remote Start install is finished with keyfob working the door locks AND got the DroneMobile installed as well. Now I can literally start the truck and check things from their APP!