5k on 5w30 for me; about to do my second oil change and staying with 5w30.
5W-30 motor oil (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Joe T
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- Thread starter
- #22
Mobile 1 5w-30 has quite a bit higher viscosity and a decently good additive package.
Here is the Pennzoil:
Personally I would run the 0w-30 esp euro mobile 1. 5w-30 mobile 1 if I was worried about warranty.
If I was worried about warranty and wanted to be slick I would run mobile1 0w-20 5 quarts and mix 2.7 of a heavier mobile 1 in. Requires a lot of DIY.
Here is the Pennzoil:
Personally I would run the 0w-30 esp euro mobile 1. 5w-30 mobile 1 if I was worried about warranty.
If I was worried about warranty and wanted to be slick I would run mobile1 0w-20 5 quarts and mix 2.7 of a heavier mobile 1 in. Requires a lot of DIY.
- Thread starter
- #23
As far as how its running on 5w-30, it’s smoother still. Put about 900 so miles on if I IIRC. Been driving my f250 a lot as i have been moving my skidsteer around. Could be a fluke that I hit 14k miles as i changed it and that was a magic number that day where the engine broke in.
But I do think its sensitive on viscosity. I can pull it out of my climate controlled garage and later in the day feel a difference as the temps climb up to the high 90s. It started getting hot here in the last couple months.
I have pretty extensive background around heavy machinery and manufacturing. Owner and operator. Watched my dad be able to put his hand on a CNC machine and know when it was ready to be taken out of service or moved into lower precision machining etc. Blah blah blah.
I may be crazy but I think all the fluids in these, besides the diffs, are extra thin for MPG cool-aide drinkers. The tuning is also horrible.
But I do think its sensitive on viscosity. I can pull it out of my climate controlled garage and later in the day feel a difference as the temps climb up to the high 90s. It started getting hot here in the last couple months.
I have pretty extensive background around heavy machinery and manufacturing. Owner and operator. Watched my dad be able to put his hand on a CNC machine and know when it was ready to be taken out of service or moved into lower precision machining etc. Blah blah blah.
I may be crazy but I think all the fluids in these, besides the diffs, are extra thin for MPG cool-aide drinkers. The tuning is also horrible.
dms
GOLD Star
Yesterday, I took my 24 LX600 in for its 35K oil change and had them use 5W-30W Amzoil that I provided, along with an Amzoil filter. I also had them take a sample of my old oil with 5K miles on it (5w-20w) so I could send it to Blackstone for analysis. They did not say anything about me using 5W-30W. I was a bit surprised that my oil pressure didn't seem to increase with the new oil.
It will be interesting to see if my mpg decreases.
Edit: I just got back from about a 250 mile trip on I-35 with the 5w-30w and according to the car's MPG average, I got 23.6 driving between 75-85. That may be better than I got with the 0w-20.
It will be interesting to see if my mpg decreases.
Edit: I just got back from about a 250 mile trip on I-35 with the 5w-30w and according to the car's MPG average, I got 23.6 driving between 75-85. That may be better than I got with the 0w-20.
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dms
GOLD Star
I just took my 24 LX600 in for its 40K service. I said to use 5w-30w. The tech chastised me in the video he sent of the tire, brakes, etc., saying that 0w-20w was recommended.....I said to use the 5w-30w. I wish I had the spec sheet for the ROW to show him that the valve train will be just fine with 5w30.
EscapeWagon62
SILVER Star
I just did my 10k today and switched to 5w/30.
No grief given by anyone at the dealership.
Too few miles to say if it’s an improvement and I really didn’t have vibration to speak of (only ever noticed it in sport s or sport s+)
No grief given by anyone at the dealership.
Too few miles to say if it’s an improvement and I really didn’t have vibration to speak of (only ever noticed it in sport s or sport s+)
Just looked at the Austrian tundra hybrid manual. Looks like they only recommend 0w-20. 5w-20 is ok but only for a short time. Makes no sense why the non hybrid would have 5w-30 option but not the same engine in a hybrid. Doesn’t it get crazy hot in AUS????
dms
GOLD Star
Austria or Australia? It is much hotter in Australia.
dms
GOLD Star
I may be wrong, but I think the 0w20 "craze" that automakers seem to be on is related to gas mileage for the governmental tests and not long term reliability. I only wish I had been using 5w30 since day one. I have put 40K plus miles on my 24LX in the past year an a half and just started using 5w30 at 35K.
dms
GOLD Star
0w8. I have never even heard of that. I guess that might be useful in the arctic. My guess ROW for same engine is 5w30.
as Ed McMann used to say to Johnny Carson (RIPx2)...
You ARE CORRECT, Sir.
5w-30, the golden elixir for all your motoring needs
couple that w/conservative OCI such as 5k miles and you too can have an engine like my LX450 which only has 440k miles and doesn't ever need oil added between changes.Full disclosure: Rebuilt said engine at 372k miles and wasn't using oil - rebuild was mostly 'cause I like doing that kinda thing
Can't make this s**t up. Every time a new model or technology comes out, someone thinks an engine made by the Neanderthals in ancient times is better than a modern, fuel efficient, engine.as Ed McMann used to say to Johnny Carson (RIPx2)...
You ARE CORRECT, Sir.
5w-30, the golden elixir for all your motoring needs
Full disclosure: Rebuilt said engine at 372k miles and wasn't using oil - rebuild was mostly 'cause I like doing that kinda thing
Bragging that your engine made it to 440k but had to be rebuilt because you just wanted to? Are you trying to undercut your credibility?
In all seriousness, is it possible that all the v6s blowing up could have been avoided by using 5w-30? I know nothing about cars compared to you all but wouldn’t the bearing be less likely to blow up if it had better lubrication?
the ttv6 dilutes the oil more with fuel due to being boosted and larger ring gap so your 0w20 isnt 0w20 pretty quick....
and with 2 less cylinders and the same hp and torque as the old v8 (and twin turbo pushing) now you have more pressure on the bearings..... which would be ok if your oil is ,say, 5w30 or 0w40....
then throw in a giant snafu of some machining debris from not properly flushing the engine blocks during manufacturing and we have a perfect shiitstorm to kill an engine.
Change your oil 3 times before 1500 miles use 5w30 or 0w40, and you're golden
I did...alot of crap came out at the first 500k oil change
and with 2 less cylinders and the same hp and torque as the old v8 (and twin turbo pushing) now you have more pressure on the bearings..... which would be ok if your oil is ,say, 5w30 or 0w40....
then throw in a giant snafu of some machining debris from not properly flushing the engine blocks during manufacturing and we have a perfect shiitstorm to kill an engine.
Change your oil 3 times before 1500 miles use 5w30 or 0w40, and you're golden
I did...alot of crap came out at the first 500k oil change
I’m sold on the 3 old changes in first 1500 but I’m still mildly concerned that they didnt spec 5w-30 on the Australia tundra hybrid. It’s so weird, the hybrid and non hybrid lx have the exact same engine. I will probably just roll the dice and do 5w-30
do 0w30 if youre worried about it... same cold start / stop and start flow and better hot film strength
i use 0w30 here as it is cold,
5w30 in summer if i cant find 0w30 at a reasonable price 0w40 if towing etc...
its just oil, and most oils overlap viscosity if you read the actual cold/hot thickness anyways, ie amsoil 0w20 is as thick as some other brands 0w30, and some oils get real thin when measured at hot temps vs cold temps.... etc
i use 0w30 here as it is cold,
5w30 in summer if i cant find 0w30 at a reasonable price 0w40 if towing etc...
its just oil, and most oils overlap viscosity if you read the actual cold/hot thickness anyways, ie amsoil 0w20 is as thick as some other brands 0w30, and some oils get real thin when measured at hot temps vs cold temps.... etc
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