555 upper ball joints fitment issue? (6 Viewers)

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Joined
Apr 14, 2021
Threads
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34
Location
colorado
I picked up the full 555 front ball joint kit from cruiserteq.com. LBJ's went in nicely and seem great. Uppers went in smoothly also, along with new Toyota UCA bushings(throw them in the freezer first;)

Everything with these UBJ seem great as well, except for the gap between the cir-clip/snap ring and the arm itself. Am I crazy or should the clip fit snugly with little room to play? The new LBJ clips were snug to the arm.

With these UBJ's I was able to fit two cir-clips/snap rings and there is still room for them(the rings) to slide a bit. The press fitment of the ball joint itself feels solid, but in my head the joint could theoretically be pressed up with the weight of the rig until it makes contact with the ring/clip. I did all the press work before putting the clips on so couldn't go back to see what the old ones fit like. Darn.

I'm including a picture. The grayish/galvanized ring is on top of a 2nd narrower and darker colored ring/clip, and you can see there is still a gap:

IMG_2888.JPG


Is that how much space there should be for the ball joint to be able to move before the ring/clip stops it? If so, it's probably ok to leave the two ring/clips on there together right? Or am I crazy?
 
If there is a play, then I suspect the ball joint may move up/down within the control arm. Have you tried to install a spacer to fill the gap? By the way, I had a 3 day trip up to Colorado and returned home yesterday!
 
Installed 555 in my factory upper arms 2 months ago, and had the same gap.
For peace of mind I added the ball joint boot spiral clip along with the new BJ retaining C-clip.
Final gap was equivalent to the factory joint.
Mine hasn't moved at all, including a trip to Moab.
 
If there is a play, then I suspect the ball joint may move up/down within the control arm. Have you tried to install a spacer to fill the gap? By the way, I had a 3 day trip up to Colorado and returned home yesterday!

That is my concern and that was the idea with the 2nd C-clip. Still leaves a gap that I'm thinking to try and fill. I don't like it though and wondering if there has been a change to them or if they have always been this way. I will probably reach out to cruiserteq to see what they say.

Where were you in Colorado? I'm actually from TX. Grew up in Dallas and Austin.

Installed 555 in my factory upper arms 2 months ago, and had the same gap.
For peace of mind I added the ball joint boot spiral clip along with the new BJ retaining C-clip.
Final gap was equivalent to the factory joint.
Mine hasn't moved at all, including a trip to Moab.

So I'm not crazy to think this at a minimum doesn't look right. Thank you for sharing. I'll reach out to cruiserteq on Monday and report back.

Anyone else have experience to share?
 
That is my concern and that was the idea with the 2nd C-clip. Still leaves a gap that I'm thinking to try and fill. I don't like it though and wondering if there has been a change to them or if they have always been this way. I will probably reach out to cruiserteq to see what they say.

Where were you in Colorado? I'm actually from TX. Grew up in Dallas and Austin.

Rocky Mountain, Denver, Colorado spring and Royal Gouge! Beautiful! Rained everyday! Took my brand new Armada for the trip... Love it!
 
I've yet to see a 555 move within control arm. They fit very tight, and the force/weight of suspension, pushes them in. Seems, it's unlikely they'd move. But it's not out of realm of possibilities!

I've had some concern; 555 change alignment, just a tad. So, I like to replace in pairs.

I've often wished I had a spacer for 555 ball joints. A spacer place on ball joint, before install. Limiting, how far ball joint penetrates control arm. Since they do penetrate further than OEM, reducing gap between LCA & knuckle.

I've measured the difference in gap, between LCA & knuckle. The 555 reduce gap about 3mm
New OEM LCA
555 RH, factory new LCA LH. gap ~2-3mm (1).JPEG


555
555 RH, factory new LCA LH. gap ~2-3mm (3).JPEG

Witness, by gap between lock ring and LCA
IMG_20190608_121919.jpg
 
Rocky Mountain, Denver, Colorado spring and Royal Gouge! Beautiful! Rained everyday! Took my brand new Armada for the trip... Love it!
Sounds like a fun trip @nissanh. Royal gorge is especially cool.

I've yet to see a 555 move within control arm. They fit very tight, and the force/weight of suspension, pushes them in. Seems, it's unlikely they'd move. But it's not out of realm of possibilities!

I've had some concern; 555 change alignment, just a tad. So, I like to replace in pairs.

I've often wished I had a spacer for 555 ball joints. A spacer place on ball joint, before install. Limiting, how far ball joint penetrates control arm. Since they do penetrate further than OEM, reducing gap between LCA & knuckle.

I've measured the difference in gap, between LCA & knuckle. The 555 reduce gap about 3mm
New OEM LCA

Do you feel the same way @2001LC about the upper ball joints?

The weight of the vehicle is pushing the upper ball joints 'out' as opposed to the LBJ being pushed 'in' which definitely fares better for the lowers.

Have the 555 ball joints always fit the way our pictures are showing (my picture the uppers and your pictures the lowers)?

I did the lowers on this same rig a few months ago and the gap in them was definitely tighter than what your picture shows, such that I did not even question or notice it then.

The gap on these upper ball joints however, combined with the direction the weight is applied to them has me looking for a good answer. @kevgentile has made me feel a little better at least:)
 
Sounds like a fun trip @nissanh. Royal gorge is especially cool.



Do you feel the same way @2001LC about the upper ball joints?

The weight of the vehicle is pushing the upper ball joints 'out' as opposed to the LBJ being pushed 'in' which definitely fares better for the lowers.
I've not (yet) measured uppers gap, between knuckle & UCA. A spacer on one side or the others, if needed to make sure gap the same, as OEM UBJ. Would be nice. A spacer, reducing chance of movement also would be nice.

But I don't think the ball joints will move. In all uppers or lowers I've done. Since the pressed-in fit, is very tight. I see the C clips, as more of a safety. If they did move after install, to contact C-clip. Then they'd, likely say at that point.

I will keep and eye out for movement, of 555 that have years/miles of use on them. I've not seen anyone in mud mention movement, have you?

Have the 555 ball joints always fit the way our pictures are showing (my picture the uppers and your pictures the lowers)?
Yes! More or less.
Here's a 555 UBJ. Not great lighting, but look close. There's a gap.
026.JPG

Here's OEM UBJ
045.JPG

I don't often R&R uppers. In fact, the only time I see uppers fail. Either boot damaged from age or hammer hit. Which hits opening up boots to contaminants. Or someone beat off ball joint and hit the ball joint (witness marks), damaging it.
I reboot more uppers than replacements
046.JPG


Ball joint boot upper.JPG


I did the lowers on this same rig a few months ago and the gap in them was definitely tighter than what your picture shows, such that I did not even question or notice it then.
I find when LBJ, pressed all the up into LCA socket. Gap is always there. I've not measure "again" in many years, to see if any change. If so, change isn't much. There is also likelihood, we variation control arm BJ socket. Perhaps variation in control arms, is why 555 designed the way they did.

BTW: You did remove LBJ boot, and then use sunggest press cup.

The gap on these upper ball joints however, combined with the direction the weight is applied to them has me looking for a good answer. @kevgentile has made me feel a little better at least:)
Good or best, OEM UCA R&R. ;)
 
Recently ran into a similar issue and have not figured it out yet. Ended up putting the old OEM ball joint back in and it was snug but not super hard to press back in. I did see some metal shaved off once I got the original one out. I am thinking the control arm opening is compromised or maybe ball joint is slightly different throughout years and I was sent incorrect part??
 
But I don't think the ball joints will move. In all uppers or lowers I've done. Since the pressed-in fit, is very tight. I see the C clips, as more of a safety. If they did move after install, to contact C-clip. Then they'd, likely say at that point.

I will keep and eye out for movement, of 555 that have years/miles of use on them. I've not seen anyone in mud mention movement, have you?
I think I agree that the c-clip is a 'fail safe' item mostly. Still a snug fit there would only help.

I haven't seen a mention of movement on mud and it seems others have the same gap. I threw out a query on another post to see what others might say so we'll see. Your pictures of the UCA with 555 joint show the same gap I'm seeing so that also makes me feel better. And for further peace of mind, I'm using the old c-clip AND the new c-clip together minimizing the gap.

I don't often R&R uppers. In fact, the only time I see uppers fail. Either boot damaged from age or hammer hit. Which hits opening up boots to contaminants. Or someone beat off ball joint and hit the ball joint (witness marks), damaging it.
I reboot more uppers than replacements

I find when LBJ, pressed all the up into LCA socket. Gap is always there. I've not measure "again" in many years, to see if any change. If so, change isn't much. There is also likelihood, we variation control arm BJ socket. Perhaps variation in control arms, is why 555 designed the way they did.

BTW: You did remove LBJ boot, and then use sunggest press cup.


Good or best, OEM UCA R&R. ;)
Mine were not looking good, most likely because the boot was torn and not replaced in time. Your variation theory could explain why Toyota doesn't sell the UBJ separately.

As I mentioned previously, the 555 LBJ I installed fit more like factory on my rig. I don't recall if I removed the LBJ boot as I did it months ago. I definitely removed the boots for the UBJ. In both cases, I checked for the lip to make contact with the arm.
 
Recently ran into a similar issue and have not figured it out yet. Ended up putting the old OEM ball joint back in and it was snug but not super hard to press back in. I did see some metal shaved off once I got the original one out. I am thinking the control arm opening is compromised or maybe ball joint is slightly different throughout years and I was sent incorrect part??
Oh yeah @FamilyCamper, I think I agree with your assessment that the opening on your LCA is compromised. I'd be looking for a used LCA or perhaps buy new.
 
Oh yeah @FamilyCamper, I think I agree with your assessment that the opening on your LCA is compromised. I'd be looking for a used LCA or perhaps buy new.
I appreciate that. Kinda need a new one anyways so I can refresh the bushings out of the truck
 
Ball joints take a lot of labor to replace and I hate to do something twice. That said, if you can get oem control arms (i suggest Amayama) you’ll be much better off.

But I too made the mistake (fool me once) of trying 555 ball joints. They didn't seat properly to begin with and i wasn’t surprised when the first one failed in less than a year. I don’t offroad and have very close to stock size tires.

Napa makes (or did make) a lbj that fits perfect but they’re about $100 each if i recall.
 
Ball joints take a lot of labor to replace and I hate to do something twice. That said, if you can get oem control arms (i suggest Amayama) you’ll be much better off.

But I too made the mistake (fool me once) of trying 555 ball joints. They didn't seat properly to begin with and i wasn’t surprised when the first one failed in less than a year. I don’t offroad and have very close to stock size tires.

Napa makes (or did make) a lbj that fits perfect but they’re about $100 each if i recall.
I appreciate this advice thank you.
 
I don't recall if I removed the LBJ boot as I did it months ago.
With boot on, the larger press cup doesn't fit correctly (tends to wiggle or rock), and the small ID cup will not fit. If boot not removed for the install. We'll often see, boot rip out, in the near term.

So, if in a year or two you see LBJ boot tron. You'll know why!
 
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Napa makes (or did make) a lbj that fits perfect but they’re about $100 each if i recall.

NAPA is reboxed 555, lol.

Myself and dozens of others have been running 555 ball joints, for years. Sounds like you had an install failure.
 
Yea I wish that was the case too.I installed them myself to be sure.
 
This pic is the napa lbj that I installed 3 years ago and is still perfect and is not 555. No popping or creaking or fitment issues whatsoever.

Lots of people on here and other sites have issues with 555 ball joints but by all means if you need the cheapest fix go for it. Maybe it’ll work out.
IMG_9481.jpeg
 
Interesting feedback I'm getting. I've only really read good things myself about the 555's which is why I'm surprised to see this gap without having come across a mention of it. If nothing else, we're documenting it for people to know what they're getting into.

Your the first @DuckLN in conversations I've put out, really against them and putting out an alternate. For what it's worth, the Napa ball joint does not 'look' like a reboxing to me. The snap ring is definitely different and the ball joint looks different too but I did mine months ago so can't say for sure. They are pricey though but perhaps something between full new arms and 555's. Three years is a pretty good time trial, how many miles are we talking? I know mine doesn't get driven daily but it does get the long trips.

BTW, Cruiserteq's response is that a 'small' gap is normal. Trying to see if they will provide a measurement. Either way, I'm in on the 555's for that rig. I did the double c-clips to help fill the gap and I'll be watching for movement etc. I don't wheel much but I'm in the mountains so a decent amount of unpaved roads.

Cheers!
 

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