5.3L Vortec swap, final preparation

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desertbuckeye

desertbuckeye

10 Year
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Threads
17
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85
So I've been through the gambit of ideas for what to do with my aging 2F motor; 2fe build, 1hz, 4bt... and I've decided that the best option for my goals is the 5.3 Vortec. (Relatively) Cheap conversion, great power, acceptable mileage (considering gas vs diesel prices), and a proven motor. I plan on going 5.3l Vortec, Advance adapter to h55f, and stock T-case. As I get ready to start emptying my bank account and get to work, I have a few last concerns that I was hoping someone would have the answer for:

1. Are there any concerns or difficulties with mating the stock master cylinder to the slave cylinder?

2. Does the Vortec PS pump work with the stock PS components?

3. With the need for some very custom radiator hoses (specifically the radiator outlet) I've been considering using braided steel cables and AN fittings, anyone want to talk me off the ledge?

Thanks for the help guys, I've been reading a lot of different builds and I'm excited to get started when I'm back stateside.
 
desertbuckeye said:
So I've been through the gambit of ideas for what to do with my aging 2F motor; 2fe build, 1hz, 4bt... and I've decided that the best option for my goals is the 5.3 Vortec. (Relatively) Cheap conversion, great power, acceptable mileage (considering gas vs diesel prices), and a proven motor. I plan on going 5.3l Vortec, Advance adapter to h55f, and stock T-case. As I get ready to start emptying my bank account and get to work, I have a few last concerns that I was hoping someone would have the answer for:

1. Are there any concerns or difficulties with mating the stock master cylinder to the slave cylinder?

2. Does the Vortec PS pump work with the stock PS components?

3. With the need for some very custom radiator hoses (specifically the radiator outlet) I've been considering using braided steel cables and AN fittings, anyone want to talk me off the ledge?

Thanks for the help guys, I've been reading a lot of different builds and I'm excited to get started when I'm back stateside.
Click to expand...


I can't answer question #1.. I went with a 4L60e

Question #2 = Yes it will work, you will have to build lines to mate the 5.3 pump to the steering gear. I used braided steel lines and adapters from Summit.

Question #3 - I combined the factory 5.3 top hose and the factory LC top hose using a adapter. I can send you more info if you want it. I used a flex hose for the bottom. Both work really well. Let me know if you need more info on the hoses.

Good luck with the build.
 
not tracking on question (1)...only issue could be if you had the drivetrain sitting further back than the stock location which my require a longer hose?

some people modify the radiator inlet and outlet (radiator) shop can modify the location and the diameter to suit your configuration. I think you have to allow for a "steam" port on the 5.3 and 6.0 anyway ...?
 
Desertbuckeye,

Welcome to the pursuit of power. I have almost completed my V-8 conversion on my 85 FJ60. I have some touch up work to do. Hopefully this up coming spring I will be able to get all of these small items done.

On the stock slave Cyclinder working with the clutch master that can be easy or hard way. It just depends on which way you want to go. Option one is to design a clutch system to support the Toyota master/slave Cyclinder (the easy way) or fabricate a chevy clutch system and master/slave Cyclinder ( the hard way).
On the first option is the easy and quickest way to go because all the parts are made and stocked by Advanced Adapters (AA). The toyota slave cyclinder has a short throw and AA has the bell housing fly wheel friction/presure plate plus the bearing for the throw out and fork. All in one kit. Talk to the guys at AA. They know there stuff. They also have a Land Cruiser to V8 conversion manual/glide. A manual I read 6 or 7 times. There is a lot of information in there.

On the more complicated way of an all chevy system. You have to fabicate a mounting piont of the stock Toyota firewall for the chevy master/booster cyclinder. Also taking in consideration of the peddle swing inside of the cab. Then fabicate new lines and mounting bracket for the slave cyclinder. Easy........right???????? Not !!!!

Tomorrow I will shoot some pictures for you of my set up.
 
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Desertbuckeye,
Here is your answer for question number two. ( having to answer your question with a post every time because my internet contention keeps failing). The stock chevy power streering pump should work with the stock Toyota streering gear box. If memory services me correct the stock Toyota hear boxs needs a 1012 or 1016 PSI. you'll have to google the Presure out out of the stock Chevy Vortec power streering pump. An easy way to hook up the two systems is to call summit racing and get two in line AN hose bar connectors. Splice into the hose/lines and have Chevy on one side and Toyota on the other. I do not have a Vortec power streering pump set up but when it comes time to switch it over the above method is the direction I will go. The guy who supplied me with my engine/wiring harness did a lot of Jerry rigging of the all things. So good that he is out of business and running from the law. But that is another story for anther day.
 
And answer number ............3. Keep the stock Toyota radiator. It will cool more then enough on the Vortec engine. Did a 4x4 drive trip in Phoenix area this last October wilth the desert temps in the lower 100's. When my eletric fans worked it kept the engine cool enough. (I had a relay wire wiggle lose and shut down one of fans. Found the lode wire and replugged it in and cooled down the motor in two minutes. Good stock Toyota radiator). For the hose and adapters needed go to this web site. Jaguars that run/sleath conversion. They Do conversion on Jaguars, S-10, 280Z, Land Cruisers and Volovs. They have adapters for the radiator hose to take you from the Toyota 1.5 inch down to the Chevy 1.25 inch radiator hose. Plus they had the air bleed/steam vent required by the Vortec engines. Also check out their VSS unit. It bolt right on to the stock Toyota transfer case.
 
MANUCHAO said:
Go with a 6.0
You welcome...:flipoff2:
All joking aside.... see if you can score a 6.0
Click to expand...

I'm going to go against the grain and say that I would go with a 4.8 if you're not wanting anything wild. You get just a hair better gas mileage (IIRC, 18 instead of 17 MPG), they're close enough in power to the generic 5.3 as to hardly be noticeable, and they're the 305 SBC of today; nobody wants them and will almost give them away.

For the record, I did go with a 5.3, but I got the L33 aluminum block because it's hopped up a bit and I wanted to shave some weight on my build. Barring that, I would go with either the 6.0 for power or the 4.8 for economy.

Just food for thought.
 
Thanks for all of the input guys, I appreciate it! The 4.8 and the 6.0 are both excellent choices but I kind of see the 5.3 as the goldilocks engine (at least for me).

Ander: great specifics, thank you. I like the products AA provides and think I will be going that route (with the Toyota cylinder components) but good to hear there's no real problem. Ill make sure to get that conversion manual. Here's to avoiding all of the "back to the drawing board" moments!

I'm definitely keeping my stock radiator, I replaced it a few months ago with a nice CS 4 core and am happy with it. Did you end up doing a steam port as Elbert mentions?
 
although I have a different version of the vortec...I used the stock type 4core radiator and had it modified to work with my setup, in my case I had the lower water outlet moved to the far right location on the radiator tank to allow for better clearance of my hoses and fan & fan shroud. I had the top water outlet resized to match the GM OEM radiator hose that matches my engine/donor vehicle.. therefore I don't run any custom hoses or adapters etc. I just had to cut down the length of the top radiator hose from a 99 GM pickup and we had to go hunt for a lower radiator hose at the NAPA store to find one that works, which was not too painful and we found one that works well.

Run the GM OEM fan clutch and matching GM fan...you will then need t fabricate a fan shroud and hopefully first off you can get the engine to sit reasonably square with the radiator core...and reasonable clearance.
 
Sounds like modifying the radiator might be the easiest solution then huh, thanks Elbert. And good call on the fan clutch, was planning on going manual fan vice spal. Did you have trouble with the clearance?
 
Btw, Finally got around to uploading a picture of my humble steed since I know everyone likes a frame of reference :bounce:

JzrnBBR
 
desertbuckeye said:
Sounds like modifying the radiator might be the easiest solution then huh, thanks Elbert. And good call on the fan clutch, was planning on going manual fan vice spal. Did you have trouble with the clearance?
Click to expand...

somewhat common to have front of v8 sitting fairly close to the radiator core....sometimes people don't watch that close enough and have the engine sitting too close to run a normal fan and fan clutch setup. I know the 4.8/5.3/6.0 family of engines is different but pay attention to the because you want to be able to use the GM Fan and matching gm fan clutch.
 
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Desertbuckeye,

On the choice of the 4.8 or the 6.0...........I chosce the 5.3 Vortec engine. Yes the vortec 6.0 would be great and pretty of power but how much more money is the 6.0 going to be over the 5.3 ??????? You would have to think about the bell housing all the way throught the flywheel and clutch/pressure/friction plate. I have have been very happy with the 5.3. I have only want a couple more ponies under the hood a couple of times. Basicly when I'm going up hill in 5th gear. The engine loses the RPMs and the cruiser starts to bogges down. But this is my fault. I'm running an 1992-1994 NV4500 tranny with the stock gears in the differantial. It's a little to tall. But I can run 70 MPH at 2000 RPMs. Your H55 with a fith gear that is only 16% overdrive. Mine is a 27% over drive. Here is picture of my set up from the bell housing to the stock Toyota transfer case.
 
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Dererstbuckeye,

Here is the picture of the AN connector of the fuel system.


Here is the fuel supply and the return line. All of the AN connector are aviabilable thru summit racing. They can supply you with all the parts from the tank to pump/regulator and all of AN connectors. Expect to spend about $700 bucks. Expensive but it work like a champ!!!!!!!!

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Here is the picture of the fuel regulator and the
 
Here is a picture of the steam vent collector from JTR/sleath conversion. It also servers as an adapter for the stock Toyota radiator to chevy Siliverado hose. Yes the is was pricey but you get a sight window and an air bleed valve for roping off the coolant.

image.webp
 
Thanks for the pictures, very informative. So your steam vent collector feeds straight back to the steam tube vice a remote overflow? Seems simple enough. Cant wait to get my hands dirty again.

Elbert, Norsk, you're right it does look like a pretty tight fit, but seeing as how the GM fan mounts up differently than the current stock fan/clutch it should be good to go. Good to know about the fan size hitting the lower rad pipe I'll be sure to address that up front.

Love this community, thanks guys
 
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