40 won't start...frustrated... (1 Viewer)

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Just out of curiosity;

Is the distributor stock?
Is it seated all the way down? If u lost oil pressure because of a dizzy loosening up, this could be part of problem.
Does the temp gauge still work? Maybe u noticed the engine getting hot?

...
 
dfmorse said:
Just out of curiosity;

Is the distributor stock?
Is it seated all the way down? If u lost oil pressure because of a dizzy loosening up, this could be part of problem.
Does the temp gauge still work? Maybe u noticed the engine getting hot?

...

Well I don't know about the distrubutor being seated all the way down, so I'll check on that...but it seems fine. The temp gauge was not working, but the temperature was fine (no abnormal heat/smoke) and I had just taken a 50 mile trip two days before no problems.
 
It sure sounds like you spun a bearing, which usually comes from oil starvation. Since the distributor turns the oil pump, and it is VERY easy to install without seating it into the oil pump, that's often a cause after work is done. But you wouldn't get too far if that was the case, so, then you wonder about the dizzy popping loose/out because the clamp wasn't tight, or something along those lines.
 
Iwould have to agree with IDave that you prossibly spun a bearing.
a freind just bought a 74 with high miles and a slight nock.
within a week the engine seized. #2 rod bearing spun, loosing all oil press.
 
That can be fixed, tho.
 
How do I know if it spun a bearing? How do you check? Is that something that will come out if I drain the oil?

Also, what are we talking about in terms of repair for something like that? Thanks guys...I really appreciate your help.
 
Drop the pan and pull the rod bearing caps one at a time and take a peek. If it is "spun", you will notice it. It is a good idea to put the cap back before you pull the next one to keep them straight. If it has spun, you will need to pull the crank and get it reground and then get under size bearings.
 
voltron88x said:
How do I know if it spun a bearing? How do you check? Is that something that will come out if I drain the oil?

Also, what are we talking about in terms of repair for something like that? Thanks guys...I really appreciate your help.



Drain the oil, drop the pan and look at the mains and rods by dropping them one by one....that is the ONLY way to verify the condition of the bearings....no matter what comes out your pan.



If you have really cooked the crank and bearings, you will be looking at an engine replacement, or at a minimum, an expensive and time consuming rebuild on your engine. 4K+ for someone else to do the work.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
another way to check the bearings is to take the pan off and loosen the main caps and then the rod caps one by one until the crank turns freely.
That will at least get you in the ballpark of how much damage is done.
 
voltron88x said:
Are there more bolts than the 22 I just removed from the oil pan??? For the life of me I can get that thing off :mad:





No.

Oh, and welcome to the world of the stuck Land Cruiser oil pan....



Get a couple gasket scrapers, and drive them in between the pan and the gasket all the way around, seperating the pan from the gasket and it should be able to drop free....


Take your time and wear saftey glasses...


Good luck!


-Steve
 
Some folks have used a jack between the frame and the pan to pop it off.
 
Finally got the pan off...

Here's what I saw...I'm hoping these pics will help you guys troubleshoot this for me. Everything "seems" normal to me except for the front 2 cylinder area...seems to be dry as a bone up there. There was some metal-ish residue in the pan as you can see and it looked like that came from the connection area between 2 and 3...i tried to get a close up but it's a bit blurry.

Thanks for your help guys...

*pics removed*
 
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Congrats!!! You have figured out what your truck won't start!


You have a mess...


Drop #2 main...It looks like most of it is in the pan...
 
Pull a rod cap...those front two rod bearings have been starved...and are probably hammerd out also...


Take nice clear pics of your sorrow please, so others can learn....



THANKS!



-Steve
 
Yes, it looks like the rod bearings for #1 and probably #2 have over heated and are probably siezed. Might as well check them all while you are in there. Some of the cam lobes look a little funky too, but it is hard to tell from the photos.
 
Poser said:
Drop #2 main...It looks like most of it is in the pan...

I'm assuming you mean that "bracket" piece between #2 and #3? I tried real quick but those are on tight. I will try again.

What is the reason the front bearings were starved and not the back 4?

Thanks Steve, and you others, for your help. I hate to say it, but does this mean a new engine? :frown: Also, is this something that could've or should've been seen coming? It seemed to run perfectly fine before it happened.

-Keith
 
voltron88x said:
I'm assuming you mean that "bracket" piece between #2 and #3? I tried real quick but those are on tight. I will try again.

What is the reason the front bearings were starved and not the back 4?

Thanks Steve, and you others, for your help. I hate to say it, but does this mean a new engine? :frown: Also, is this something that could've or should've been seen coming? It seemed to run perfectly fine before it happened.

-Keith

Get manly with it, dig in and get those bearing caps off. The rods are connected to the pistons. Main bearing caps bolt into the block. Make sure that the caps are match marked so you get them back in the same place in the same orientation. Cover the rod bolt ends with short pieces of rubber hose or put the cap back on loosely so you don't damage the crank more than it is now.

Can't offer an educated guess why those particular bearings are bad until you get the caps off and inspect the damage.

A new engine may be in the works and may be cheaper, but you won't know until you dig it.
 
What everyone else said, and:

Sounds like you had an oil pressure problem. Like most cars, you can't really rely on the gauge, was the oil pressure tested, did the gauge even work? Most pre-purchase inspections don’t include such detailed analysis as checking the oil pressure of sending off the oil for analysis. A really good ear might have heard a slight knock but there very well could not have been one at the time it was evaluated. Racing teams and aviation mechanics send oil off for testing to see if there is an unusual amount of copper and lead in the oil as a sign of bearing failure. They also cut open filters to check for debris. To clarify, this is not stuff you'd notice when you'd chance the oil. Not big chunks, but small particles in suspension. Any big chunks are a sign of already failed parts. No one can say one way or the other but it sounds like you just had some bad luck. We used to call this a JRL failure, I was “just riding along and ____________” - Sometimes it just happens that way.

If you need machine work in the Northern Virginia Area, Simon at Tyson's Auto Machine is the way to go. He has a lot of hands on experience with Cruisers. Like any machine shop in this area, he is not cheap and has a fairly long turn around time.

As far a great local mechanic in the DC area, Josh Thornton is the guy to see. He is a professional tech (not some shade tree with no training), went to tech school and currently works at a Toyota dealer. He does side work at his place in Manassas. Both he and his dad are old school cruiser heads. This guy is an awesome Land Cruiser mechanic. I believe that if an individual is inclined and motivated that they can learn on their own, but overall when it comes to wrenching and welding, you need some formal training, an apprenticeship and ideally some certs to really be a pro. This is that guy. If your going to have a pro work on your car, make sure he has the background to be a pro. This is even more of an issue when it comes to welding, in my opinion a welder who is not trained and certified should stick to mufflers and that’s about it. You can reach Josh at dont.know@verizon.net

For minor repairs, Sam and Glen at the Vienna mobile are the way to go, both are awesome techs but I don’t think they like to do major jobs as space is an issue. Sam , Glen and Josh are the only people in this area that I’d let touch my cars. Sam is awesome at diagnostics. You can reach them at 703-938-4733 Sam and Glen are not cheap, but very good. You get what you pay for.

Like others said, once you tear it down, you'll be able to get a better idea of what may have caused the failure and what your options are to fix it. If your lucky, it might just be a matter of polishing or turning the crank and putting in new bearings, odds are that's not the case. You need to find out why there was a problem and fix that - My guess is an oil pressure issue.

Rebuilding that motor will cost a lot of money to do it the right way, if your the type to do it right the first time, it will cost you up to $3000.00 or more by the time you get every last part you'd need. However, you could just try to fix the crank, hone the cylinders and put in used bearings. Not the way I like to do things, but sometimes you got to do what you got to do.

Getting a used motor is probably the way for you to go. If you can keep it indoors, I have an engine crane you can use. I know a guy in Vienna who has a rusted out FJ40 with a rebuilt engine, maybe you could go knock on his door. There is also a pair of 40's sitting in a guys yard in Springfield, he might have one.

I don't even have enough time to work on my truck, but I can find the time to look it. I'm in Vienna, near Tyson's. Let me know if you a hand.

I used to have a 72 2002 Tii, great cars.

Good luck,

Stumbaugh

77FJ40@cox.net
 
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UPDATE:

Just an update guys that I got my Cruiser back on the road. A used 2F, and more money then I had planned :frown: , I'm back cruisin the likes of Vienna, VA. :)

Say hi if you ever see me. Thanks for your help guys.

-Keith
 

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