Bodean
Hot Damn
What was inside the cover when we pulled it off. SMH...
40 series general tech and classifieds
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
What was inside the cover when we pulled it off. SMH...
Easy fix. Just need some new side gears and a welder 
Well if I had known yall were going to work tonight I would have been there the crack open that diff.
Thank you guys for all your help.
Thank you guys for all your help.
You do know that's the wrong block for that chunk right?
This is the spare third that was originally welded by Bill at crawl. It was missing the stock spacer block, so we had to reuse this one from his ARB carrier.
- Thread starter
- #4,108
Clapped out hunting rig
Looks similar to (and as capable as) my 5 year old's Barbie jeep
Save those cool carnage award trophy parts!!!
Thanks
Thanks
I have my 2F all back together finally after a nice HG vacation and set the front cylinder to TDC, dissy rotor to #4 plug.
Now, time to adjust the valves.
All the valve adjuster nuts are backed off. Oil holes seem lined up nicely. All of the rocker shaft holes are pointing straight up. Main oil hole pointing passenger side.
Some rocker arm clearance with the push rod is tight. Is this normal?
I found this cold spec valve adjustment. (any idea what the significance of the a,b,c and d listed in columns are pointing to?
Is this okay to use to set everything up?
FSM says rotate engine crank 360 aft adjusting the first 6 valves.
Is that just bumping the flywheel until timing mark completes one 360 rotation?
basically 180 out from TDC?
Now, time to adjust the valves.
All the valve adjuster nuts are backed off. Oil holes seem lined up nicely. All of the rocker shaft holes are pointing straight up. Main oil hole pointing passenger side.
Some rocker arm clearance with the push rod is tight. Is this normal?
I found this cold spec valve adjustment. (any idea what the significance of the a,b,c and d listed in columns are pointing to?
Is this okay to use to set everything up?
FSM says rotate engine crank 360 aft adjusting the first 6 valves.
Is that just bumping the flywheel until timing mark completes one 360 rotation?
basically 180 out from TDC?
I think the a,b,c,d correlate to the order in which you lash the valves. So basically once you have the engine at TDC you can adjust all the valves marked a&b (also colored yellow). Then rotate the engine 360 and lash all the valves marked c&d (also colored in pink).
^ this.
With the flywheel at the timing mark, the number 1 cylinder should be real close to TDC. If it's on the compression stroke you can adjust valves 1,2,3,5,7,9. If not adjust valves 4,6,8,10,11,12...you've got a 50/50 shot. When you're done with the first group, turn the flywheel 360 degrees and adjust the other group.
Bodean
Hot Damn
We saved them!
The whole point the rotor to #4 cylinder has always been confusing to most people. This only works with stock dizzy or an aftermarket if set like the OEM. Most aftermarket HEI's are not marked with cylinder numbers so when installed at TDC rotor may or may not point to number one. To save time I always put the Trans in gear and push the truck instead of fighting with trying to get to the front of the crank to turn engine over.
Yea, I found this to be the best way also. Regardless if plugs are in or out...
Adjusting valves tonight and hope to fire it up. Have you ever used the cold spec above? Seeing how the engine is almost as old as me, the valve lash specs are probably out of tolerance for the wear on the engine. Although, all push rods are new.
Do you ever retorque head bolts anytime after new HG install?
