Anyone know the dimensions on the old 40 crank handle in the area where it meets the crankshaft nut. I want to make up a ratchet extension for valve adjustments, etc.
Thanks
Thanks
40 Crank Handle Dimensions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gusb
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- Thread starter
- #3
Yeah maybe - but I was thinking it's not much more than a rod with a dowel pin pressed through it, and it doesn't seem like it would need to be so long, etc. for just turning the engine with a ratchet. I don't really see myself ever using it to start the engine... If I stumbled on one at a decent price I'd pick it up but with all the other stuff I spend time trying to source it doesn't seem worth the effort.
I picture a short rod (or old extension) with the pin-drive on one end and a unused socket welded to the opposite for the ratchet.
Wouldnt it be way easier just to use a socket with a long extension?
- Thread starter
- #5
Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think a socket that large will fit through the bib?
You can insert the extension first then put the socket on.
Or you can use a socket that fits inside the crank nut then cut grooves at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, insert a steel pin across the socket in the grooves, use a method of attaching it permanently.
Viola'
antoine
Or you can use a socket that fits inside the crank nut then cut grooves at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, insert a steel pin across the socket in the grooves, use a method of attaching it permanently.
Viola'
antoine
All Saudi spec cruisers have the crank as standard, but they are no longer available at the vendor.
I wanna say that almost any handcrank will do.
I got a Land Rover crank and modified it to the Toyota specs just so it fits in the OEM holder.
You might look at Farmall cranks.
It is just a simple round shaft with a pin to engage the profile on the big crank nut.
The crank nut has the female receiver for the pins.
It's not a socket that fits the crank nut - but that might work.
Ya sure gotta eat your Wheaties to crank start that straight 6.
I've done it cold a couple of times but never could start a hot engine .... so far.
A worn engine might be a lot easier???
It freaks ppl out.
I wanna say that almost any handcrank will do.
I got a Land Rover crank and modified it to the Toyota specs just so it fits in the OEM holder.
You might look at Farmall cranks.
It is just a simple round shaft with a pin to engage the profile on the big crank nut.
The crank nut has the female receiver for the pins.
It's not a socket that fits the crank nut - but that might work.
Ya sure gotta eat your Wheaties to crank start that straight 6.
I've done it cold a couple of times but never could start a hot engine .... so far.
A worn engine might be a lot easier???
It freaks ppl out.
- Thread starter
- #8
So back to the original question - can anyone share the dimensions 
So back to the original question - can anyone share the dimensions
I made one using 1/2" rod. A longish piece for the shaft, and short piece welded 90* to one end to engage the crank, and a a medium length piece welded 90* to the other end to turn it with. It looked like a capital "I", sort of.
Now I use a 46mm socket and extension/breaker bar, though. The 6-point socket makes it easy to turn the engine 120* to bring up each cylinder for adjusting the valves. Two flats on the socket is 120*
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
Crank
Hope this is of a help to you.
This is out of my FJ45 with 2F, but I am sure it is the same for all.
The bend starts at around 33.5", the bend is about a 12" bend, and over all it's 40.5" long from tip to tip. Round steel 0.753 in inches.
Hope this is of a help to you.
This is out of my FJ45 with 2F, but I am sure it is the same for all.
The bend starts at around 33.5", the bend is about a 12" bend, and over all it's 40.5" long from tip to tip. Round steel 0.753 in inches.
love2fly
Flying the Mountains of the NW
crank rod
Oh yeah you will need this little baby mounted on the top of your bumper if you want it to stay straight and steady while turning. This is a grate tool for setting the valves and setting the timing mark and such.
Sockets can be a problem getting it into and out of the crank area.
THIS IS THE WAY TO GO.
Oh yeah you will need this little baby mounted on the top of your bumper if you want it to stay straight and steady while turning. This is a grate tool for setting the valves and setting the timing mark and such.
Sockets can be a problem getting it into and out of the crank area.
THIS IS THE WAY TO GO.
When I got my first FJ I told my buddy that the balancer pulley nut looked like an old hand crank could be used to start or just rotate the engine. He said "Your crazy, it's just a special nut for the balancer. You could never get a straight 6 to fire with just a hand crank!" So of course one would believe that because that's something of the early vehicle era.
But looky here.... It was indeed what I thought it was so now I want to know, where can I get one? And where is it supposed to mount?
But looky here.... It was indeed what I thought it was so now I want to know, where can I get one? And where is it supposed to mount?
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks love2fly 
I'm guessing that pressed dowel pin is around .250 inches?
I'm guessing that pressed dowel pin is around .250 inches?
Be sure to clean and lube the nut before using...
Here's how it's done...
HandCrankMovie.avi - YouTube
HandCrankMovie.avi - YouTube
GregRay
Old Member
Hand Crank tool question
Just a quick sanity check. I need to turn my engine by hand to reach TDC as I'm installing a new (to me) distributor. Read through a few threads and decided a 46 mm socket/extension/breaker bar would be the quickest way to go (already had the breaker and extension).
But, after picking up the 46 mm socket, there is no way it will fit in the space between the crank nut and the radiator shroud, so I guess I'll have to remove the shroud. Of course, that means removing the lower rad. hose, which means draining the radiator. Not the end of the world, but a bunch of extra work/time.
Aside from building or finding a real hand crank, is there a way to do this using a 46 mm socket without removing the radiator shroud?
Just a quick sanity check. I need to turn my engine by hand to reach TDC as I'm installing a new (to me) distributor. Read through a few threads and decided a 46 mm socket/extension/breaker bar would be the quickest way to go (already had the breaker and extension).
But, after picking up the 46 mm socket, there is no way it will fit in the space between the crank nut and the radiator shroud, so I guess I'll have to remove the shroud. Of course, that means removing the lower rad. hose, which means draining the radiator. Not the end of the world, but a bunch of extra work/time.
Aside from building or finding a real hand crank, is there a way to do this using a 46 mm socket without removing the radiator shroud?
Yep. Put the transmission in gear, release the parking brake, and bump (push/pull) the truck by hand to get the flywheel where you want it. It's that easy.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
You can use the starter to get it close. Then I remove the dust cover on the bell housing. The pressure plate has hole you can use large screwer to turn the crank to TDC. Removing the spark plugs will make it easier to turn.
The crank turns twice for the cam to turn once so make sure you a TDC with the number cylinder read y fire not the end of it's exhaust. You can plug the spark plug hole your finger over the spark plug hole to see if the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke. Or just remove the valve cover. Both rocker arms should be loose on the compression stroke
