40-60-70 DIY Bumper Kits

Would you buy a DIY Bumper Kit

  • 40 series

    Votes: 52 44.4%
  • 60 series

    Votes: 52 44.4%
  • 70 series

    Votes: 20 17.1%
  • NOT INTERESTED/ Prefer a fully built bumper

    Votes: 4 3.4%

  • Total voters
    117
  • Poll closed .

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Hi all,

reevesci, any updates on Tacoma rear bumper kits?

Thanks,

Alan



Alan,

I hope to have my test/R&D Taco for that year range in the next month or so. But, the DIY kits would be a couple months away at the soonest.

J
 
Bummer! :(

Alan,

The donor rig as MANY donors go.... NEVER SHOWED.. So, I do not have or know when I will get to the Taco armor..

Jason
 
Jason,
Got my cross member out today. You said to remove or grind down the two rear rivits for the body mount so the side plates will mount up. How did you do this and did you weld the body mount back to the frame where the rivits were? Gonna tack the bumper all up and after it is all together, finish weld it up.
 
Ryan,

You may not need to remove fully. Most of the time it is just slightly buzzing off the head. It all depends on how much your frame opens up once the crossmember is removed.

I'd weld the frame brackets and 2" crossmember up and see if it will slide in first without any modification to the forward rivets.

J
 
Jason,
Got my cross member out today. You said to remove or grind down the two rear rivits for the body mount so the side plates will mount up. How did you do this and did you weld the body mount back to the frame where the rivits were? Gonna tack the bumper all up and after it is all together, finish weld it up.
Pictures?
 
I cut and punched out the rivets holding the cross member in.
20151202_140855.webp
 
Just a few questions. Is there gonna be space between the frame rail and the side "D" ring plates? I know this is for the tire mount but how does it go? (Second picture). When I mock up the "D" ring plates with the 2" crossbar and then put the main shell on, one of the "D" ring plates sits at an angle. Any way to fix this. I'm betting there is a way to square it all up.
20151203_093127.webp
20151203_093139.webp
 
Ryan, there may be space between the the mounts and the frame. All depends on how much your frame moved after the factory member was removed.


This is how the T/C adjustment works... This is a flat horizontal setup, yours should be angled to match the body. 20 degrees approx.

P1040019.webp


You want to build it square with the recovery openings in the shell. 42" IIRC. The 2" tube between the frame mounts will sit inside the mounts approx. 1/4" each side, NOT FLUSH. The frame mounts are identical so they shouldn't be at an angle if everything is squared up.
P1030987.webp


P1030988.webp
 
Hey Jason, I'm finally working on my front bumper kit and was wondering how you prep the metal for paint? There is a grey coating over most of it (mill scale?) that I assume that needs to be removed. Thanks for helping with this dumb question.

Bruce
 
Hey Jason, I'm finally working on my front bumper kit and was wondering how you prep the metal for paint? There is a grey coating over most of it (mill scale?) that I assume that needs to be removed. Thanks for helping with this dumb question.

Bruce

I'd have it sandblasted for the best long term results.

Jason
 
Hey Jason, I'm finally working on my front bumper kit and was wondering how you prep the metal for paint? There is a grey coating over most of it (mill scale?) that I assume that needs to be removed. Thanks for helping with this dumb question.

Bruce

Generally mills use muriatic acid for this. the bumper is obviously to large for a dip tank to soak but you can use a spray bottle will full strength acid and get good results in a short time. As a side benefit it will slightly etch the metal for good paint adhesion.
Here's a you tube video showing how simple the process can be. I would mask off the PG&P shafting ( hinge posts ) so you don't affect the polished surface

 

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