4+PLUS Tire/Cooler Carrier Install- FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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See pic in post #11. The assembly is welded to the swing out arm from the mfg.

This is why the two models are now the same and the only difference is the cooler rack you determine is best for you.

alf
 
Dom, excellent thread! It looks like 4-Plus changed their packaging slightly between yours and mine:

My swingarms came attached to the bumper, so I just attached with no greasing or assembling required. I'm not sure I agree with the need to grease the bushing - being somewhat concerned with it attracting grit and wearing faster. Guess I'll keep an eye on it and lube if it seems needed..

The idiots failed to include the hardware to attach the basket. Fortunately, we've got a top-notch nutz-n-boltz specialty place in the neighborhood - which is a good thing as MAF still hasn't managaged to send them to me. They have good products, but I've not had the best luck with their service over the years. . .

THANK YOU for posting pics of your license plate light install! Based on this, I did a nearly identical build yesterday with a piece of mild plate steel and a $6.00 Taiwanese light from Pep Boys. I was originally going to drill holes to install the OEM plate frame, but your rig looked a lot cleaner. I couldn't find any of the adhesive pads you used, but zip ties did the job.

While at Pep Boys, I also picked up some cheap red self-adhesive relfectors and attached them to the fixed portion of the new bumper, plus one more to the center of the tire mounting plate. As the view of the taillights will now be somewhat obscured to a guy following in a tall vehicle, I decided to kick the visibility up a notch.
 
So this project is old but made a few updates...


Added a set of backup lights to augment the tractor light on the rear. Pep Boys specials ($25) and very low profile. I need to add a manual switch too so I can use them as camping lights...



And the almighty bottle opener just below the cooler carrier...:D
rearcarrierlights.jpg
rearcarrieropener.jpg
 
Man-a-fre doesn't always see these posts but if you have a cooler you want the basket built around talk to steve or mail me direct. I've personalized four this year.
I blame it on the fact we have too many choices. If this were 1984
USSR we'd only have one cooler available and my life would be easy



Per my prior post, if MAF would just make this basket 1" wider and 1" deeper, it would fit the larger Igloo 5 Day Cooler. Are you listening MAF???

I'm not planning to use the wing-nuts...using nylocks instead will deter theft of my jack...and I'll probably drill one of the bolts and put a small padlock on it.

78FJ40: That's a great idea about attaching a 2nd basket. Please post pics when you get it installed.[/QUOTE]
 
you can pretty much get any component separate, either mail me from here ao call steve at man-a-fre direct, Customers have bought everything from individual frame mounts to baslet bottoms. I even sent out a main frame without the hinge tubes.
we've built them with two tire swing outs and one with a ladder vs.
a cooler rack
There is so much hands on with 4+ stuff, modifications aren't an insurmountble issue.......but you might get charged if it involves a lot of time


w
Does anybody know if you can you buy the cages separately? What does the mounting platform look like without a cage on it? With a little stress analysis of the mounting platform, one could determine its loading capabilities. You could then develop a whole suite of attachments for it...:grinpimp:
 
i love that tire mount, but isn't the chevey logo on the bumper hitch a little sacreligious?
 
So this project is old but made a few updates...

Added a set of backup lights to augment the tractor light on the rear. Pep Boys specials ($25) and very low profile. I need to add a manual switch too so I can use them as camping lights...

And the almighty bottle opener just below the cooler carrier...:D

Awesome write-up! The reverse lights are just spliced into the wiring in the left rear quarter panel? Wiring just run along the bumper and secured with nylon zipties?

This may be a silly OT question..
exactly how do you add a manual switch to use your reverse lights as camping lights? I also saw an MAF picture with a reverse/camping light mounted on a post coming up behind the tire. That looked good also. Sorry for the OT question, feel free to PM me any answers to minimize clutter on this thread.

THANKS!
 
Jay-

I left the stock reverse light on the quarter panel and just tapped into the original wiring and added the two lower lights. I initially wanted to wire in a manual switch but I have not done that yet. I basically just drop it into reverse when the truck is sitting in camp and the lights come on for use at night. I suppose if I wanted to have the truck running I would need the manual switch. It's an easy add-on. Just tie into the reverse circuit with a powered (BATT or IGN) switch and it would come in in reverse and when the switch is activated.

Black wire with black zip ties on the rack leading to the license plate lamp...
 
Just finished my 4+ 1045 install; this thread was helpful, thanks.

I added grease zerks to both spindles. They used good steel to make these things, even with a brand-new Titanium bit it took a long time and a lot of pressure to drill those holes!

I used my stock license plate holder and lights because I had them, but I don't like how tall they are on the back of the basket and may do a much more compact light and mounting like DomSmth and LakeNorman.

Overall a very well-made piece of equipment. My only complaint is the paint - mine falls off if you barely touch it, and there is no primer, just a coat of gloss black. I had to touch it up in numerous places just from gently trial-fitting it and handling. I finally started touching it up with Rust Bullet Black Shell, hopefully that will stick. But for the money this thing cost, I would think that Man-A-Fre could powder coat it or at least use some primer and give you a decent paint job. At least the steel is so thick that it will take a long long time to rust through.

4bumper003.jpg


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Final clean-up of license plate mount and light, project now officially finished:

Operatorplates003.jpg


Operatorplates002.jpg
 
OK, I've been using mine for 6 months now and several 4WD and other trips and still really like it, but I've only used it to carry an ice chest so far and I just run a bungee cord over the top to hold it in / keep the lid down. Has anyone found or made a good metal or nylon webbing strap system to secure jerry cans? Taking an extended trip to Canyonlands N.P. in the spring and I'll need to haul jerry cans for sure.
 
Ditto on the paint, mine lasted one winter and is totally surface rusted, I will have to remove and repaint or powder coat. Not sure why this is happening. Otherwise great bumper/ carrier

R
 
Just picked mine up today. Any thoughts on powder coating it before putting it on? Not sure if I want to pull it off in 2 years with it chipped and rusted to do it.
 
If you're going to powder coat it, now would be the time.

Mine has been on and held up well for 2.5 years now, for several long wheeling and cross-country trips, plus I drive it a lot at home too. It's parked in a shop/garage but I don't wash it very often. Anyway, after 2.5 years it doesn't have any rust, and it's not in a dry climate either. The paint has rubbed off on the top of the bottom rail, where the rubber bumpers that hold the weight of the swing-outs sit on it. When I first installed mine, I touched-up any worn, scratched, or flaked areas with black Rust Bullet and it has absolutely stuck and done its job. Two thumbs up for Rust Bullet.

Here is a photo I took yesterday, after taking the top off for the season:

IMG_0910-1.jpg


Here are some rear shots from last summer in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado:

IMG_0860.jpg


IMG_0826.jpg
 
I just called Man a Free and they said that they were powder coated. I also bought the 4+Plus Aussie Brush guard/bumper a month ago ... and was thinking damn. If the Tire carrier is not powder coated, then that wouldn't be either. But they assured me they both are. Any easy way to tell? I like the Rust Bullet idea better anyway Thanks for the suggestion. Even powder coated you are going to scrape and bang the bumpers, better to have a quick fix. I will post some photos when done.
 
I just called Man a Free and they said that they were powder coated. I also bought the 4+Plus Aussie Brush guard/bumper a month ago ... and was thinking damn. If the Tire carrier is not powder coated, then that wouldn't be either. But they assured me they both are. Any easy way to tell? I like the Rust Bullet idea better anyway Thanks for the suggestion. Even powder coated you are going to scrape and bang the bumpers, better to have a quick fix. I will post some photos when done.


I always use semi gloss spray paint on my bumpers. In drier climates (like Utah) rust does not happen fast but scrapes on powder coat do. I just expect to repaint or build new bumpers every few years.
 

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