quick search on Watts directed me first to a Mustang side....given the images there, it has no application in offroad/articulation use.
it would corner like rails tho
it would corner like rails tho
4 link or 3 link because 2link stinks
- Thread starter FJ40Dude75
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Woody does make some good points. Your life may depend on those links, may wanna get some help on the welding, its all in the prep. Every one else is right though, a "2 Link" would never work.
LG
LG
I posted a pic to give you an idea on the center upper hiem joint and how it should be mounted to get maximum side loading strength needed.
You might have a concern with the oilpan. There are a couple good ways to fix this:
1-you could bend the center support into a slight U to gain more uptravel
2-place a good center bumpstop (or air bag) just in from of the crank pulley that will stop the center uptravel just before the pan.
Both of the above would be preferable.
Good start just clean up the weld (looks like a stick welder or mig flux core) go out and find a good MIG welder with sheilding gas to improve those welds if you can't get what your using to work.
You might have a concern with the oilpan. There are a couple good ways to fix this:
1-you could bend the center support into a slight U to gain more uptravel
2-place a good center bumpstop (or air bag) just in from of the crank pulley that will stop the center uptravel just before the pan.
Both of the above would be preferable.
Good start just clean up the weld (looks like a stick welder or mig flux core) go out and find a good MIG welder with sheilding gas to improve those welds if you can't get what your using to work.
Roswell Rat said:
Nope, I have alway called that type of suspension a 3 link with a wishbone. I have seen wishbone used in offroad, and drag racing (lower part of a ladderbar or 4 link for sise to side control)
While on the subject of 3 links, wish bones, satchels, what ever you want to call them, if you are going with conventional steering, you will get some undesired performance.
cruiserrg, nice looking work. Why the bent lowers, just for clearance?
LG
cruiserrg, nice looking work. Why the bent lowers, just for clearance?
LG
Watt's link explained...sort of.
http://www.spitzracing.com/watts_link.htm
I know for a fact I've seen this set-up in a magazine article on an FJ40. If I can find it I'll post pics....
http://www.spitzracing.com/watts_link.htm
I know for a fact I've seen this set-up in a magazine article on an FJ40. If I can find it I'll post pics....
Lance is totally right on steering.....no panhard = odd handling with the tie rod, and guaranteed bump steer issues.
satchels?!? yikes....
satchels?!? yikes....
- Thread starter
- #28
the welds arent the greatest I know but that is also why I ran a plate on the bottm of 3/8 tempered plate to tie it all together was planing on doing the same thing to the other side but wanted to make sure it would work first so i should switch the direction of the axle heim sounds good I will but when I cycled everything it didnt come close to the oil panand I tucked it up as far as I thought I would want it to go I will switch the heim and try again this is also the first suspension from scratch I have built and I am trying
for a rookie attempt, you've got a good start....what steering are you planning on running?!?
- Thread starter
- #30
saginaw box froma caddy wich is in already with the caddy steering coloum and then builing a new drag link with a heim at the box basically what is ther for now was looking at highsteer and just cant afford that yet and maybe hydro assist later
- Thread starter
- #31
also in the third pic I havee the axle up at almost full flexand you can see the heim is no where near my pan but the y part is close to my drive shaft so that is where I was figuring bump stops
since you are running a drag link with that setup, you'll be much happier with the on and offroad handling if you use a panhard bar....otherwise, you'll constantly be correcting the steering wheel every time the suspension moves at all....very irritating.
The panhard runs from the driverside framerail to the passengerside of the housing, parallel to the ground and/or parallel to the existing drag link.
Buddy of mine built a buggy with aggressive angles on his upper links, like yours, and hates the handling between trails and on the road.
The panhard runs from the driverside framerail to the passengerside of the housing, parallel to the ground and/or parallel to the existing drag link.
Buddy of mine built a buggy with aggressive angles on his upper links, like yours, and hates the handling between trails and on the road.
LanzG said:
Not my setup, wish I could take credit for it. I have my lowers bent in and up for clearance of tires and obsticals. There are pics of mine in another thread about links here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30224&page=1&pp=30
FJ40dude75, like you mentioned you will also need bumpstops at the frame for articulation. I will be running, a center airbag for bumpstop, center limit strap, frame rail bumpstops, and shock limiting straps. The center strap will be short, and the shock ones at the length I want to articulate.
- Thread starter
- #34
I have already all the parts for the panhard because i was planning on using 1 with the 2 link I will put 1 on if you guys think I need it
I promise not to post any further on the Watt's link subject....but here is a cruiser with a Watt's link:
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/toyota/131_0307_cvtk/
....and my disclaimer, that I in no way endorse this set-up and is presented for educational purposes only....
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/brandpages/toyota/131_0307_cvtk/
....and my disclaimer, that I in no way endorse this set-up and is presented for educational purposes only....
FJ40Dude75 said:
No go with one method of locating the axle side to side or the other. If you have both, you they will be binding against each other.
Most run a panhard if using conventional or hydro assist steering (drag link setup), while running a 3 or 4 link you are best to run full hydro.
Roswell Rat said:
thats the only way to make a watts link get a lot of travel. Nice link and good thread hijack
it I were building.....and I've considered it many times, but just haven't dove in to front suspension links as of yet.....
lowers are fine as is - ditch the upper V-bar dealio
run a single upper link from inside the passenger side frame rail (sleeved thru, double shear as well) to the top of the pumpkin, or just outside the top. Picking random numbers, keep about 4" verticle separation at the framerail side, and at least 6" at the axle....8" would be better...more separation = more resistance to torque twisting.
The two lowers and the single upper will control the axle torque-twist and control your pinion wrap.
Then, run a single panhard from just outside the drivers frame rail to the passenger side of the axle...this should be pretty long, and mirror the drag link.
Someday I'll break down and do mine, and will have more hands-on suggestions, but that's the basics of how I've planned mine out.....(subject to change, as always...lol)
lowers are fine as is - ditch the upper V-bar dealio
run a single upper link from inside the passenger side frame rail (sleeved thru, double shear as well) to the top of the pumpkin, or just outside the top. Picking random numbers, keep about 4" verticle separation at the framerail side, and at least 6" at the axle....8" would be better...more separation = more resistance to torque twisting.
The two lowers and the single upper will control the axle torque-twist and control your pinion wrap.
Then, run a single panhard from just outside the drivers frame rail to the passenger side of the axle...this should be pretty long, and mirror the drag link.
Someday I'll break down and do mine, and will have more hands-on suggestions, but that's the basics of how I've planned mine out.....(subject to change, as always...lol)
- Thread starter
- #39
do i still need to switch the way the heim sits on the pumpkin with the single upper
the heim orientation would be fine since the panhard will control the side-to-side loading.
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