4 link help needed! (1 Viewer)

[mookie]

i need a little help if anyone can throw some beta my way, i've searched this forum and not found much, though i'm sure it's been beat to death on here at some point.... first of all i have a fj40 with 3 speed t-case and i'm using a 60 series rear axle, i want to do double triangulated 4 link on the rear of my 40 but i believe that i'm going to have some clearance issues with my driveshaft, the place where i need to put my crossmember for the bottom links is basically right beside the tcase output and just slightly below, they will be close to pivoting on the same axis as the cv joint. i believe that i can finagle a crossmember that will go over the cv joint then down and across to the other side but it looks like theres going to be very little space between the top of the passenger side bottom link and the bottom of the driveshaft....my main question for now is will that clearance maintain itself during articulation or will my d-shaft at some point hit the link? ....if yall think that the d-shaft will indeed eventually contact the link then i have to decide whether to maybe raise my drivetrain up a couple inches or just go with a single triangulated 4 link and mount my lowers to the outside of the frame....

 

[Mace]

Whether they hit or not is dependent on the link design. You may have enough room to make it work. But I doubt it..

 

[mookie]

that's what i was afraid of.....so, do most folks with a factory t-case opt out of the double triangulated setup?

 

[Mace]

most linked folks dont use the stock three speed tcase


On my 60, I did a wishbone three link. BUt is is not a flex monster...

 

[LT]

I ended up going having my lower links off the bottom of the frame with as much triangulation as I could get out of them. The uppers are triangulated mounting off the inside of the frame and on top of the axle housing.

 

[Tapage]

most linked folks dont use the stock three speed tcase

but the newer BF1A don't gonna make much diference in the 4 link setup in terms of space.

 

[LC_Hamma]

My rear uppers are triangulated & mounted on top of the frame (need a body lift for this). Lowers are slightly angled in & combined w/ the upper mount, inside the frame. No problems w/ frame interference & I'm using the 3 spd. case w/ upper link lengths around ~38"/ lowers I just changed & didn't measure. Keep your links inside the frame for LOWEST COG running STOCK width axles. I have a few pics of mine in the Ga. Cruiser Forum.

 

[mookie]

so Chuck, have you changed your lower link mounts? it looks like in the pics in your sig that they are mounted on the bottom of the frame...

 

[LC_Hamma]

so Chuck, have you changed your lower link mounts? it looks like in the pics in your sig that they are mounted on the bottom of the frame...

Those are old pics & I should delete/ replace most of them as they've changed over the past few years. I had my lower links longer & mounted on the skid plate crossmember. Easy way to do it till you need to get to your tcase for a trail fix. They were too low also. Some updated pics in the Ga. Cruiser Forum:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ga-georgia-cruisers/169437-gotta-few-more-mods-underway.html

You need to decide now whether or not to cut off the frame & tube out, cuz frame interference is one of the main reasons builders tube the back. Once you cut it off, design capabilities are endless Leave it on & yer handcuffed

 

[mookie]

the frame is already choped and tubing under there is ongoing plus i dovetailed it already in a previous project...

so, your lower links never hit the frame with that setup? and what are your link lengths and wheelbase?

 

[LC_Hamma]

the frame is already choped and tubing under there is ongoing plus i dovetailed it already in a previous project...

so, your lower links never hit the frame with that setup? and what are your link lengths and wheelbase?

Lower links are *somewaht close but I have a frame & you don't so you can triangulate more than I, using curved uppers. See post #7 for link lengths W/B is around ~105". PM me if you have any other ?'s

 

[toymaniac]

One thing you might consider is reversing the triangulation. Most people who build double triangulated 4-links make the top links converge at the diff and the bottom links converge at the frame. Because of your offset diff you can make your bottom links converge at the diff and your top links converge at the frame. Then your crossmember could go above your t-case output. You would have to make really tall outer link mounts, but with proper triangulation, they would be strong. Just an idea.

 

[Gumby]

I ended up going having my lower links off the bottom of the frame with as much triangulation as I could get out of them. The uppers are triangulated mounting off the inside of the frame and on top of the axle housing.

Me too. My uppers are attached to a crossmember, but it's well above the transfer output. The rears are more what I'd call "splayed" than triangulated. They don't hit the frame, but I don't have or want a lot of up travel.

 

[mookie]

dang, why haven't i thought of that?

 

[DHONDAGOD]

dang, why haven't i thought of that?

'Cause you trapping in the box "the man" is keeping you in... Its a conspiracy I tell ya!!!!




Chris