- Thread starter
- #701
And some more.
Build 4 door Fj45 on 80 series chassis
- Thread starter Blackknight1
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Looks like you’re taking in the right considerations to make this work and be strong so the spare does not exit the back of the truck while in motion. Good stuff.
Also your new shop is huge. And epic. That is all.
Also your new shop is huge. And epic. That is all.
I don’t mean to be negative, But IMO thaat swing out is not up to the task at hand.
At the very least I would double sheer the mount and then the frame itself is made of to small of tubing to be handle that size tire.
At least the way you started the load was spread out
At the very least I would double sheer the mount and then the frame itself is made of to small of tubing to be handle that size tire.
At least the way you started the load was spread out
- Thread starter
- #704
More pics of the modification.. in the last picture, I considered building a piece of sheetmetal to use as triangulation between the mountains on the bumper and the upper part of the carrier. Then I thought that i'd simply use a piece of straight pipe for the sake of uniformity.
Since the tire is so big and heavy, the top mount , that was previously gonna be mounted to the bed was cut off .We placed it exactly on top of the lower mount and welded them together. . We fish mouthed the other end and welded it to the vertical cross bar.
This should be plenty strong to support the spare.
The bumper was built from 3/16 gauge sheetmetal and should easily support the whole thing.
Since the tire is so big and heavy, the top mount , that was previously gonna be mounted to the bed was cut off .We placed it exactly on top of the lower mount and welded them together. . We fish mouthed the other end and welded it to the vertical cross bar.
This should be plenty strong to support the spare.
The bumper was built from 3/16 gauge sheetmetal and should easily support the whole thing.
- Thread starter
- #705
More pics of the modification.. in the last picture, I considered building a piece of sheetmetal to use as triangulation between the mountains on the bumper and the upper part of the carrier. Then I thought that i'd simply use a piece of straight pipe for the sake of uniformity.
Since the tire is so big and heavy, the top mount , that was previously gonna be mounted to the bed was cut off .We placed it exactly on top of the lower mount and welded them together. . We fish mouthed the other end and welded it to the vertical cross bar.
This should be plenty strong to support the spare.
The bumper was built from 3/16 gauge sheetmetal and should easily support the whole thing
. If it does not work out as planned, I'll ditch the whole thing and throw the darn spare on the roof rack and secure it with a ratchet strap
.
Heck, I hope it works and doesn't come apart ..... we'll see.
Since the tire is so big and heavy, the top mount , that was previously gonna be mounted to the bed was cut off .We placed it exactly on top of the lower mount and welded them together. . We fish mouthed the other end and welded it to the vertical cross bar.
This should be plenty strong to support the spare.
The bumper was built from 3/16 gauge sheetmetal and should easily support the whole thing
You might be right....I don’t mean to be negative, But IMO thaat swing out is not up to the task at hand.
At the very least I would double sheer the mount and then the frame itself is made of to small of tubing to be handle that size tire.
At least the way you started the load was spread out
. If it does not work out as planned, I'll ditch the whole thing and throw the darn spare on the roof rack and secure it with a ratchet strap.Heck, I hope it works and doesn't come apart ..... we'll see.
You might want to get a spindle that goes all the way through your bumper and welds to the top and bottom. I’ve had various 1-ton spindles welded to the top of my previous bumper and they cracked either at the bumper or right above the bumper.
I used this spindle from Ruffstuff and it’s been working great for the past 4,000 miles. I did have to tie in an upper mount to my cage to keep the weight secure. If you search my thread you will see that I used a spring pin to lock in the upper mount. Don’t do this as that pin has come loose and it rattles. I will switch this to some sort of compact locking lever.
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
I used this spindle from Ruffstuff and it’s been working great for the past 4,000 miles. I did have to tie in an upper mount to my cage to keep the weight secure. If you search my thread you will see that I used a spring pin to lock in the upper mount. Don’t do this as that pin has come loose and it rattles. I will switch this to some sort of compact locking lever.
Spare Tire Spindle
Spare Tire Spindle Heavy-duty spindle for secure spare tire mounting. This robust spindle provides a reliable mounting point for your spare tire on custom bumpers and tire carriers. Built to handle the weight and stress of a full-size spare tire, this spindle ensures your tire stays securely...
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
I don’t actually have any pictures of this in my thread, but here is an example of how I tied my upper portion into the cage. I would not recommend using a pin like I did as it has wobble out. Also, I only have 2500 miles on the set up as I just realized that I didn’t have the spare tire carrier on for the first 1500 miles.
This is entire carrier setup an experiment, FYI. Many folks told me that it wouldn’t work, and it may not.
This is entire carrier setup an experiment, FYI. Many folks told me that it wouldn’t work, and it may not.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I was suspicious of it before you made the decision to tie it in at the top but I think you found an elegant solution.
In my mind, you made the right call to tie it in to the roll cage, instead of the body, as the body is likely to move separately and vibrate from the bumper, and when that happens on a mount on the body it ruins paint and sheetmetal. I think this may be helpful for @Blackknight1 to consider if he hasn't already. Sorry Blackknight if we're making it harder, just want you to consider all the options.
Mike, thinking about your pin and your next solution...I said the body moves separately from the bumper, but we know the cage moves too, probably pretty much with the body because of how we have our cages mounted...so I wonder if that pin wear is from that movement...So I wonder if you need some sort of attachment that allows some give...I wonder if you put a small latch on it if you'd find it broken in short order? You may need a flexible hinge providing support in the direction you need and flex where you need it, or something like a body/cage mount but multiplied because of the distance from the body/cage mounts on the frame. Or, I might be wondering too much. Probably from a lack of wandering.
Here's a picture of mine, I go against the grain and don't really think I need bearings in this application, just a shaft turned down to fit in the 2.5 x .5 DOM tube on the end of the bumper. The 1/4 wall 3x5 tube does have some triangulation across the bottom.
- Thread starter
- #709
Most of the time, harder can be better , especially if more thinking and better planning are involved.... I'm following this closely....
The farmer in me says to use what is already on the shelf, and as I scan those shelves I see a lever leftover from the bumper hardware kit like what you have on your bumper. I think that this will allow for enough movement and adjustability?
The pin wear is most definitely from movement both when it flexes and rattles down the road. I don’t have any cushion in this setup yet as I was in a hurry to get it done and hit the road. I now have space that has developed between the bumper and swing arm. It’s not much and maybe 1/16”, but large enough to smash a piece of cardboard in there. I plan to add some sort of rubber pad to dampen the movement.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Well ya if you've got any farmer in you at all you have to use what you have. Especially if you have some old grain leg belting laying around, using a few square inches will totally justify the 100 square feet that it's taken up in storage for 20 years because "I may need that someday". Don't ask me how I know.
Seriously you might want a softer piece of rubber than conveyor but if you can package that latch it'd be a great try.
If I understand what you’re saying- I used a 2”x2” piece of UMMH(**) plastic as a rest for my swing out. It’s held up the last 7-8 years. I use a very similar latch and it hold both the swingouts closed.
**If I got the abbreviation wrong, it’s the stuff they make commercial cutting board out of.
I get links to plastic surgery facilities when I search with the words “UMMH plastic”.
Perhaps let’s move this convo over to my thread. It’s pretty quiet over there and I am sure that Blackknight has enough to think about with his build.
Perhaps let’s move this convo over to my thread. It’s pretty quiet over there and I am sure that Blackknight has enough to think about with his build.
- Thread starter
- #716
Dude
..... I don't think I've ever seen material that thick around here..... that is some burly stuff right here! I can see why you would not need bearings with your set up , being that the movement at the joint itself is only an inch or two at most.
Great stuff, man !
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I had the 2.5 x .5 DOM laying around, it’s what I used for my lower links. They’re 40” long and I knew it was going to be heavy so I made it heavier. Not sure if right but my lower links won’t bend.Dude
I can see why you would not need bearings with your set up , being that the movement at the joint itself is only an inch or two at most.
Great stuff, man !
- Thread starter
- #718
Where do you guys buy that stuff? I wanted to get heavier steering rods for this build and for the FJ 40. Do you guys buy those or do you make your own ? I imagine that big wheels and tires mus wreak havoc on rod ends too. Is it possible to get heavy duty ones ?
Several places - Barnes 4wd, Ruff Stuff Specialties, Marlin Crawler to name a few.
I got all of my DOM from Tube Service and my solid aluminum links from Wide Open Design. The off-road shops are a bit more expensive but they may ship to you.