4.88 owners

[ShottsUZJ100]

I just worked out the cost of supplying a rear ARB'ed third member with 4.88's. Right at around $2400. This is for a complete new diff, all new parts using Toyota bearings, bolts, nuts seals and Precision gears.

OK...I thinking here and using rounded #'s:

$800 locker
$300 gears
$150 install kit
$400 labor

$1650 in typical main parts IF an aftermarket 4.88 was available and you're locking up.

Slee has a $2400 kit plus the cost of bolt-in labor only (~$200).

In other words that only I understand ( ) it looks like when I locked my 2001 I could have re-greaed it also for about a $1000 more due to the whole rear non-gear issue. I'd a done it. No brainer. To do it now or if I already had a rear locker....no way.

100 owners line up!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I don't think the carrier is stronger, however the way the Toyota locks the rear using the slide collar on the axle shafts makes it not as strong. If you examine the system you will see why we are twisting axle shafts and then you can not remove them (on the 80 series, but the 100 is the same). I have never seen a e-locker break, but I know of quite a few that has had this stuck axle issue. Just for that I would go with ARB instead of rear e-locker.

Mr. Slee: Do YOU (you...I know what others think) think the ARB front diff is stronger than the OEM?

 

[sleeoffroad]

Front ARB is stronger than the open front diff. No questions.

 

[Greg B]

I'd call a talk to Slee about this. I'm not the expert by any means on fitting a OEM locker into a non-locked Cruiser. His site states ARB is the better choice.

There are NUMEROUS occasions where a rear locker only would not fill the bill out here. There are PLENTY of occassions where a rear lock front TRAC combo doesn't work either. I'm very glad I have both F&R lock. I need it.

I'm sure you do, you get out on more challenging stuff than I do on a regular basis. For me, the rear is probably all I'll ever do.

All I'm saying is that if you want to lock the front (ARB) then locking the rear is as easy as buying a part (ARB). If you have ARB front then why go through the hassle of retro-fitting an OEM? Espeicaly if the OEM's not as strong.

I think we're just not looking at it from the same perspective. You're looking at it like you're locking both front and rear. I'm looking at it as doing the rear, and then sometime in the future locking the front. No big deal either way really.

BTW, I think you know this...I'm just reading your note funny (maybe?)....You have a front TRAC combo with ANY open/locked rear diff. (OEM or ARB doesn't matter)

Yeah, you're missing the last part of the sentence. "...one could have the best of both worlds from the factory." The "from the factory" part is what I was stressing. Basically, having an all Toyota set-up that was built for a 100.

 

[Greg B]

I don't think the carrier is stronger, however the way the Toyota locks the rear using the slide collar on the axle shafts makes it not as strong. If you examine the system you will see why we are twisting axle shafts and then you can not remove them (on the 80 series, but the 100 is the same). I have never seen a e-locker break, but I know of quite a few that has had this stuck axle issue. Just for that I would go with ARB instead of rear e-locker.

I just worked out the cost of supplying a rear ARB'ed third member with 4.88's. Right at around $2400. This is for a complete new diff, all new parts using Toyota bearings, bolts, nuts seals and Precision gears. Could be had cheaper if you can source a 80 series third member housing. That will take about $400 off the cost.

That is for a complete third member that you can bolt in. No core charge.

Thanks Christo, this is exactly the details I was looking for comparing the e-locker to the ARB. I hate it when people say something is stronger or better but then don't give any reasons or details on why it is stronger or better. That explains a lot.

 

[Greg B]

OK...I thinking here and using rounded #'s:

$800 locker
$300 gears
$150 install kit
$400 labor

$1650 in typical main parts IF an aftermarket 4.88 was available and you're locking up.

Slee has a $2400 kit plus the cost of bolt-in labor only (~$200).

In other words that only I understand ( ) it looks like when I locked my 2001 I could have re-greaed it also for about a $1000 more due to the whole rear non-gear issue. I'd a done it. No brainer. To do it now or if I already had a rear locker....no way.

100 owners line up!

I have an idea, why don't you sell me your rear third member with ARB diff for $700 plus shipping? Then, you buy Christo's third member with 4.88's and you'll be good to go. Simple switch for you and me. Then, you'll be flying on those 35's!