Pskhaat
Tourer
To make the questions even more convoluted, is there something about a 98-99 3rd/carrier that makes it easier to put in 4.88s than 2000+ as per Chirsto's comments above concerning obtaining 80 series parts?
4.88 owners
- Thread starter bull
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
dclee said:
Twist-twist....are you left-wingers?
You know what I mean by Land Cruiser rock crawling. The DESIGN of the rig, not the fact it's a buggy or a Jeep. A friggin modified TJ will kill our 80 and 100's.
And so far 311....the 100's proven itself every bit as strong axle-wise as the 80. The sharts are even larger. Who cares though.....we're talking designs only.
Oh, and that pic isn't an example of rock crawling. DUHHHHH!
It's an example of approach and departure angles. A lengthened ARB 80 suffers in the rocks compared to a cut one....just like any other vehicle design.
It's an example of approach and departure angles. A lengthened ARB 80 suffers in the rocks compared to a cut one....just like any other vehicle design.
powderpig
SILVER Star
It is the driver that hinders the truck. That truck could and would go in the same path if the driver goes at a slightly different angle then squares up and is not afraid to scrape the bumper. Maybe I will be in tuscon next month to help a family member and we can play shotts?
The ARB method is expencise as you have to have some machineing done as well as parts from two different ARBs. I do not remember carls method of doing this and may be cheaper. But to john's horror it still uses a 80 series R&P, which he considers weaker. Christo posted up the differences of the two R&P last year when this was debated. Both are strong and it is debatable as to which is stonger. Any how it is all in good fun to build the object of desire that works for you. later robbie
The ARB method is expencise as you have to have some machineing done as well as parts from two different ARBs. I do not remember carls method of doing this and may be cheaper. But to john's horror it still uses a 80 series R&P, which he considers weaker. Christo posted up the differences of the two R&P last year when this was debated. Both are strong and it is debatable as to which is stonger. Any how it is all in good fun to build the object of desire that works for you. later robbie
- Thread starter
- #45
After calculating last night. I've decided to go with the 4.88s. I was leaning towards 5.29s, but I think the 4.88s + 35s + forced induction will pull just fine.
hoser
SILVER Star
Another benefit of going with 4.88's over 5.29's is you won't need a speed calibrator. Your gears will bring it back to stock and you saved ~$200.
bull said:
I missed the part about forced induction earlier. Yeah, 4.88's and a turbo/sc will move 35's just fine.
powderpig said:
Robbie: We'd luv the see you! Please keep me posted.
You think I need instructions on the "longer bumper method"? Remember my 100?
I heard Doug (I think) on the CB telling me to approach Kenny's Climb straight on. NOT POSSIBLE in the 100. I had to do the turning thingy and the climb was then made and easily.In the slickrock pics above though your/my technique doesn't work. Sure, some have angled up on the front and started climbing UNTIL the rear bumper dragged and stropped them cold. No traction...too much drag. A 6-incher lift like yours would make it I bet! Randy's 4.5-incher though does not. (White Lexus pic)
And to clarify my stance on this thread....I was won over...I believe the recommendation on using the 80 rear-end. It's just ME PERSONALLY will not to that...will not take that small (or very small) chance simpy because I don't see a need to. The 100 is plenty quick on-road and lacks nothing off-road to lessen the experience.
LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU'RE COMING. I'LL GET SOME PEOPLE TOGETHER!
Greg B said:
Greg,
From the small amount of research I've done, I believe you can swap the e-locker rear in with a small amount of work. I think the wiring harness still has the needed wires for the e-locker, at least in my early 2000 it seems to.
If not, it can be wired up. I know a few people who did the same thing on their Tacomas and had to do all the wiring themselves.
I've been looking for a deal on complete rear end (within driving distance), but haven't found one for less than $1000 so far. Actually not a bad price, but I didn't have the cash at the time.
I've come to the conclusion that the ARB is a better idea than trying to do the swap, unless you can sell your current axle for a good price to offset the cost.
calamaridog said:
Swapping the complete rear end is what I have been contemplating. If you look at the numbers, it's really not a bad option. For an ARB, you're looking at about $1100 for the locker, compressor, shipping, etc. Plus another $200-$300 in install. So you're at $1300 for a complete ARB rear locker.
I've already found two 99 rear axles ready to bolt in for $1000 each. I could bolt it up myself and still have an entire 01 axle sitting in my garage if I ever needed it. I'm not sure what I would do with the axle I have other than hold on to it. Both salvage yards I talked to weren't interested in mine. Still, it's cheaper than the ARB and I like that it's Toyota parts.
I would think the brake parts should all be the same. The 98-99's had ABS, just not TRAC. But, isn't TRAC just computerized control of the ABS? If so, that shouldn't change anything back at the axle compared to an 01 should it?
Then there's the question of the wiring for the e-locker. I would love to know if the wiring is there in my 01. Do you have any idea what the wiring looks like? I could check mine to see if I have it.
Then there's the 4.88's. From previous posts from Carl and Christo, it sounds like it is a little easier and cheaper to convert the e-locker than it is to convert the ARB. So that's another bonus for the e-locker.
As far as strength goes, are the e-locker and the ARB comparable in terms of dependability and reliability?
hoser
SILVER Star
Greg, IIRC from talking with C-Dan, the brakes calipers and rotors are the same up until 2003. Take a look at Boston Manglers write-up on installing factory lockers on his FZJ80.
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/elockerinstall.htm
The big question is about the ATRAC/VSC. Whether there are any extra sensors (speed) or parts on the '00+ axle.
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/elockerinstall.htm
The big question is about the ATRAC/VSC. Whether there are any extra sensors (speed) or parts on the '00+ axle.
hoser said:
Hoser,
Good point on the sensors in the axle. I didn't think about that before. Is there anyone here that can confirm that?
From what I can tell, there are no additional sensors or switches on the rear of TRAC equipped 100`s. The part# of the rear diff/axle housing is different, but that may be due to the wiring for the locker.
The rear ABS sensors, and axles are the same part# on TRAC and non-TRAC equipped models, so it appears as though Toyota added TRAC with very little alteration (to the 99 model), maybe by just enhancing the ABS computer to also pump the brakes when a tire is "slipping", not just "skidding".
I hope someone finds a way to easily add Factory lockers to 2000-up models...giving us another option for lockin` it up !!
The rear ABS sensors, and axles are the same part# on TRAC and non-TRAC equipped models, so it appears as though Toyota added TRAC with very little alteration (to the 99 model), maybe by just enhancing the ABS computer to also pump the brakes when a tire is "slipping", not just "skidding".
I hope someone finds a way to easily add Factory lockers to 2000-up models...giving us another option for lockin` it up !!
SINCITY100 said:I hope someone finds a way to easily add Factory lockers to 2000-up models...giving us another option for lockin` it up !!
Why would you want to spend $$$ on factory lockers when ARB's are stronger? Sure, if I could get F&R from the factory...COOL! If I have to pay? ARB all the way baby! I already destroyed a factory 4-pinion diff. Don't want factory!
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Didnt you catch that last part John.. " giving us another option for lockin` it up".
I know there at least a few peeps in here that would not mind a bit if their locker was "factory".
Although ARB`s locker may be stronger, intended use and PRICE may be a reason to run a factory instead. If I found a used/salvaged locker for cheap, I wouldnt think twice about throwing it in my rig, as long as it would work...
BTW...I am STILL working on destroying my original 4 pinion !!
SINCITY100 said:Didnt you catch that last part John.. " giving us another option for lockin` it up".
I know there at least a few peeps in here that would not mind a bit if their locker was "factory".
Although ARB`s locker may be stronger, intended use and PRICE may be a reason to run a factory instead. If I found a used/salvaged locker for cheap, I wouldnt think twice about throwing it in my rig, as long as it would work...
BTW...I am STILL working on destroying my original 4 pinion !!
Work HARDER on the 4-pinion!
I believe Slee already addressed ARB vs factory locker cost and sides on ARB. It's on his site. Plus, if you're going to lock the front too, that's another HUGE advantage of just going all ARB.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Is the ARB stronger than the rear e-locker from the factory? Not sure what the strength differences of the two are. Do you have any info on this?
Also, some here may never need a front locker. I, personally, like the idea of a factory rear locker in conjunction with TRAC. I doubt I will ever need any more traction than that. If I do, I can always add a front ARB.
If the rear axles from a 98-99 will interchange with the newer, TRAC models, one could have the best of both worlds from the factory. I think that's pretty sweet. Especially, if I can do it cheaper than adding a rear ARB locker.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
I don't follow this either. What is the HUGE advantage other than you already have an air compressor that's running the rear one.
I'd call a talk to Slee about this. I'm not the expert by any means on fitting a OEM locker into a non-locked Cruiser. His site states ARB is the better choice.
There are NUMEROUS occasions where a rear locker only would not fill the bill out here. There are PLENTY of occassions where a rear lock front TRAC combo doesn't work either. I'm very glad I have both F&R lock. I need it.
All I'm saying is that if you want to lock the front (ARB) then locking the rear is as easy as buying a part (ARB). If you have ARB front then why go through the hassle of retro-fitting an OEM? Espeicaly if the OEM's not as strong.
BTW, I think you know this...I'm just reading your note funny (maybe?)....You have a front TRAC combo with ANY open/locked rear diff. (OEM or ARB doesn't matter)
There are NUMEROUS occasions where a rear locker only would not fill the bill out here. There are PLENTY of occassions where a rear lock front TRAC combo doesn't work either. I'm very glad I have both F&R lock. I need it.
All I'm saying is that if you want to lock the front (ARB) then locking the rear is as easy as buying a part (ARB). If you have ARB front then why go through the hassle of retro-fitting an OEM? Espeicaly if the OEM's not as strong.
BTW, I think you know this...I'm just reading your note funny (maybe?)....You have a front TRAC combo with ANY open/locked rear diff. (OEM or ARB doesn't matter)
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Greg B said:
I don't think the carrier is stronger, however the way the Toyota locks the rear using the slide collar on the axle shafts makes it not as strong. If you examine the system you will see why we are twisting axle shafts and then you can not remove them (on the 80 series, but the 100 is the same). I have never seen a e-locker break, but I know of quite a few that has had this stuck axle issue. Just for that I would go with ARB instead of rear e-locker.
I just worked out the cost of supplying a rear ARB'ed third member with 4.88's. Right at around $2400. This is for a complete new diff, all new parts using Toyota bearings, bolts, nuts seals and Precision gears. Could be had cheaper if you can source a 80 series third member housing. That will take about $400 off the cost.
That is for a complete third member that you can bolt in. No core charge.
