3rd gen 4runner rear hatch wiring question (1 Viewer)

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So I've now lost my rear wiper and rear window operation. I assume it's due to wires being worn out in the hinge area. (tip I learned from an old pro in shop class many years ago: Wires don't go bad in the middle... the fail at the end, bends, or rub points.)

So my questions are:

Can I find a reasonably affordable wire harness from the plug above the roof panel down into the door and just replace the entire wire set into the rear door? If so who sells it?

Second, how the heck do you get the wire set out? The body side is easy, how do you get it out of the door side and remove it without destroying the rubber protection around it between the door and body?

Thanks!
 
I believe there is a module in the back hatch that provides power for the rear window and wiper. This is what i just had unplugged as it was draining my battery.
Yup could be wiring but it also could be the module, connector etc. I'd try popping the cover off the back hatch and see what you can find.
 
Thanks Duane. I'll check it out and see what I find. Interestingly enough, we might have the same situation. For about 3 days I had dead battery issues. Then everything went back to normal. Then a couple days later I have no wiper or window. I had assumed it was a bad battery, but by the time I bought a new one the symptom had gone away. Possibly that module or power to it is my problem.
 
Today I went out at lunch and now my remote doesn't work. The remote its self seems fine, the red light comes on, but no action from the vehicle. WTF is happening to my old skinner? Does it think it should wants to be a Land Rover?
 
Today I went out at lunch and now my remote doesn't work. The remote its self seems fine, the red light comes on, but no action from the vehicle. WTF is happening to my old skinner? Does it think it should wants to be a Land Rover?

Factory Toyota keyless or aftermarket?

With all of these unrelated issues, I'd give the grounds and battery clamps a good once over. Clean and tighten them all just to rule them out.
 
Factory Toyota keyless or aftermarket?

With all of these unrelated issues, I'd give the grounds and battery clamps a good once over. Clean and tighten them all just to rule them out.

Just the factory one. I've checked the battery. The 4runner starts up and runs great. I'm beginning to suspect possibly an issue with the fuse block or something like that? I probably won't get a chance to tear into it until this weekend.

I'm kinda mystified by it. The old girl has 198K on the clock and the only thing that's really ever gone wrong that's not routine maintenance was the power antenna. In almost 200k miles it's been exemplary in terms of reliability. It even still has the original U-joints. Now it's one electrical gremlin after another. I suspect they are somehow related though.
 
well maybe its a 200000 mile + feature as I am at about 210000 miles now :rolleyes:
 
OK... so I'm back with more questions on this.

I disassembled the door. I've taken a look at the wiring from the body too the door. I found a couple wires with cracked insulation, but no broken wires. I tested every wire for continuity and they are all continuous. from the connector in the roof of the body to the door.

The functions that don't rely on the control box - pwr door lock - works normally.

The window position sensor switch works normally. I assume there's only the one switch to identify window position.

I found that one of the two connections for the rear defrost has separated from the rear window. I'm not sure how to fix that, nor do I really care if the rear defrost works. I hope that this isn't causing any issues. I don't think it should, but possibly?

There are 3 connectors in the door. Two smaller and one main one that plugs into the rear door ecu. I don't have a great way to identify the wiring for this ecu. I have a 2002 4runner FSM, however the plug in the FSM is NOT the same plug as the one in my 96 4runner. The FSM shows a 26 pin plug for the rear door ECU. My 96 4runner has about an 18 pin plug.

When I plug in the rear ecu I get a repeated "clicking" sound like one of the solenoids is trying to close. I could not identify which relay is making the noise. They are so close together that I'm not sure how to identify which one not functioning.

When I try to use the rear window I get a click at the door, but no movement. I get no response at all to the rear wiper switch.

So -

Any ideas?

Anyone have a FSM or wiring diagram for the connector to the rear door ecu? At least that way I could test the function and make sure the input signal is accurate.

Anyone know which relay would cause both the rear window and the wiper not to function?
 
update:

I went over to a friend's house with a 97 4runner. We swapped my circuit board for the ecu into his. Works great.

So the ecu is good. Now I'm back to trying to figure out where wiring or signal isn't working.
 
Next update. I downloaded the FSM portions from toyota's website. I'm not getting 12v to pin 3 when I should with ignition switch, but rather it's seemingly a ground. So there must be a short, but oddly no fuses are blown. If it were short circuited it should blow a fuse. So I'm still confused about what the heck's going on. I've tracked the wires back through the hatch into the body. They are good to there, but there must be a short between the upper rear ceiling connector and wherever it next connects.

Any ideas on where to go next? I'll check the fuse box, but I'm not sure where other areas of potential wear or bending would be to look for.
 
My fuse that fed that was AM1 which is a 40 amp fuse so it would take quite a bit to smoke it. Unless that circuit to the rear hatch is fused lower elsewhere.
 
Thanks Duane.

I'm f'n confused now. I found an issue with the grounding plug - the blue one on the back door that connects all the grounds. So I soldered them all together. Then the rear window and wipe worked, the relay stopped clicking, and life was good.

Put the door back together, now nothing works again, AND I got a fun dead battery this morning.

So My guess now is that when I test continuity the wires are connecting somehow, but when it's closed they are moving enough to disconnect the ign wire or possibly ground the ign. wire. That's the only way I can think of as to why I'm showing ground on pin 3 sometimes and it works sometimes that requires a 12v signal on pin 3.

The problem is that visually they all look good at the flex points. There's no indication visually of a problem. So I'm unsure how to locate the break. Possibly I will end up back at step 1 and buy a rear wire harness. It could be an issue in the plug somewhere?
 
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Schematics with links.

Try to follow the correct powers and grounds according to these schematics. Start with the fuses and relays listed. Then check your window position switch. I've heard of using the key in the back door and holding it in the window up position to get that extra little bit. Then everythings worked fine. These schematics should help you through. good luck! Let me know

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/053rwdmh.pdf

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/043pwrww.pdf
 
So I've now lost my rear wiper and rear window operation. I assume it's due to wires being worn out in the hinge area. (tip I learned from an old pro in shop class many years ago: Wires don't go bad in the middle... the fail at the end, bends, or rub points.)

So my questions are:

Can I find a reasonably affordable wire harness from the plug above the roof panel down into the door and just replace the entire wire set into the rear door? If so who sells it?

Second, how the heck do you get the wire set out? The body side is easy, how do you get it out of the door side and remove it without destroying the rubber protection around it between the door and body?

Thanks!
How did U replace the wire set. Mine is totally fried in hinge area. I cut mine off and pulled out the body (easy side) plug. I can get a new set from dealer for abt 120 bucks...and was thinking to cut the top (body part portion out and splice /solder the wires together at the hinge part after needle them all back into the rubber hose protector one by one... since i have no idea how to run the new wire through the rear gate door at my 2000 4runner....
 
Wire Set Fried in Hinge area back gate 2000 4runner

How did U replace the wire set. Mine is totally fried in hinge area. I cut mine off and pulled out the body (easy side) plug. I can get a new set from dealer for abt 120 bucks...and was thinking to cut the top (body part portion out and splice /solder the wires together at the hinge part after needle them all back into the rubber hose protector one by one... since i have no idea how to run the new wire through the rear gate door at my 2000 4runner....
 
Just thought I'd answer an old unanswered question.

I never ended up replacing the wire harness. I traced the issue to a relay in the box that continually tried to close the rear window. I found out by accident - was at home depot loading some stuff and the window started going up on its own - with my body in the way. Didn't get caught, but startled me. Anyway, I took the relay circuit board out (blue box) put it back in and then all was well - for about a year. Last week I got home in my '15 4runner from buying it and the battery in my old one was dead. I figured the old girl just isn't ready to go yet. Because I take such good care of her! Same issue came back. So I went to the local pick and pull - $17 for a new circuit board :) - the place had 2 3rd gens, so I took both and now have a spare that I may part with as soon as someone buys my '96 and I don't need it anymore. Works great. All the rear door stuff is back to normal. Life is good. Seymour is ready for his new home.
 

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