3FE timing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Threads
33
Messages
138
Location
Sweeny, TX
After replacing the push rod cover I can't get my engine timed right. Even at full retard I still get a knock under load. I haven't hit it with a timing light yet so I don't know where it is setting at idle and I dropped my socket and can't find my retriever so I'm headed into town. When I get back I'll put the light on her and see what I get but to the best of my understanding with it turned back that far it shouldn't knock. Any ideas would be great thanks.

JD
 
Just put the light on it and I can't see any timing marks. If I'm not mistaken the distributor will only go back in right or 180 out and I marked the crap out of it to make sure I got it right and never turned the engine over while it was apart. With it turned all of the way down it idles nice and smooth still can't see any timing marks but it sounds good (I know the ear timing light isn't a good one) if it was off I would think it would run like crap. I am going to try setting it to TDC and check to make sure every thing lines up as it should.
 
^^^What he said. Its really easy to put the distributor in the wrong position. The bottom of the distributor shaft is keyed and fits into a slot at the bottom that drives the oil pump (I think). Anyway, that little slot in the bottom of the motor spins freely, so you have to put it in the right position with a long screwdriver and then position the distributor at the right starting point. Make sure you account for the rotation of the dizzy as you mesh the gears together. Its a PITA, but you'll know when its done right. You should have taken it out while the motor was at top-dead-center, if not, you'll have to spin the crankshaft until you see the 2 little indentations through the timing window (then hope your not 180deg from TDC). Good luck. Keep playing with it and you'll get it right.

I'm about to replace my pushrod cover too as its leaking like a sieve. Any tips or a write-up would be greatly appreciated.
 
If your off by 180, you'll know it as it will not run at all, but being off one tooth on the dizzy will just cause it to run rough. When you retard the timing, you're getting a smother idle because you're closer to the correct time "window". I'm pretty sure you're off by one tooth. Set it to TDC, then check your rotor. It should be pointing exactly at #1 plug wire. If its a little left or right, your off a tooth.
 
I would check to make %100 sure that you need to do the push rod cover before you jump in its not difficult but it is a pain. Pretty much everything on the right side of the engine needs to come off. Make sure you mark everything real well a couple of things that i didn't see until I was elbow deep in it that would have helped was to go ahead and pull the heater lines I tired to just pull them out of the way and I think that made things harder that they had to be also I didn't drop the a/c compressor brackets and it made it where I had to angle it in and then line it up. I think that with the a/c out of the way you could just tuck the back behind the harness and slide front right in place. If you get in there and need anything shoot me a PM and I give you my number.
 
So how does the ignition advance while driving I am wondering if maybe some how I hooked something wrong.
 
So how does the ignition advance while driving I am wondering if maybe some how I hooked something wrong.

I'm pretty sure that the engine timing advances per the ECU. It ultimately controls the timing, but you have to set it at a certain baseline. Also, when setting the timing, make sure to jumper the 2 spots on the diagnostic plug. I can't remember them off the top of my head, but its on MUD somewhere. This allows you to bypass the ECU to set the baseline timing and then once you remove the jumper it takes over. At least thats my uneducated understanding of it. I tried 2-3 times to advance the timing and the ECU always ends up trying to correct it and it'll run like crap, so just go with the 7deg below TDC (large dot on the timing wheel) and you'll be good.
 
Ok so pulled everything apart set it to TDC and that did it. I would have thought the oil pump wouldn't have turned but I guess it did just enough. Thanks for the help
 
My timing was waaay off and I had ACC set mine straight and watching those guys wrestle with it made me glad I had them do it. Working on my wrenching skills ever so slowly.
 
Ok so pulled everything apart set it to TDC and that did it. I would have thought the oil pump wouldn't have turned but I guess it did just enough. Thanks for the help


Glad you got it done. I learned that lesson thru trial and error. I was replacing my dizzy o-ring and kept having trouble getting the timing right. Another Mudder helped me through it as well. I didn't know that the oil pump would spin freely either and kept trying to force it. Anyway, glad you got it fixed and hopefully running well now.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom