[3FE] Main crank pulley keeps walking, time for engine rebuild? (1 Viewer)

[TheElegantFox]

Was the seal replaced when you replaced the HB with the used piece? The HB and the front seal tend to “wear in” as a set. If the “new” HB has even the slightest wear in a spot that the seal can’t cover, it’s going to leak some.

Yeah we had a new seal put in when the used parts were swapped in.

Just got off the phone with the shop and we’re gonna try using a new from Toyota nut and I went ahead and ordered a new crankshaft gasket just in case.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Had one part order for the crank nut 90179-22010 come back void due to NLA, tried another parts place and will see if it goes through.

How much variance would there be in a used crank nut? I may need to work with what I have or source another used one.

In reading my first thread again, someone mentioned poor motor mount condition could be contributing to a vibration which could be buzzing the nut off it’s lock.

What other areas should I asses as points of vibration when trying to re-torque the nut? Or could it just be there’s a bit of back and forth to the wear in for a new nut and seal?

 

[pithicus]

That's a shame about the oem seal NLA. Hopefully the aftermarket ones are as good. When retorquing , make sure the wrench is big enough and calibrated. Torque to over the spec a bit and it "should" be ok. Like i said, this worked for mine.
If mine ever unscrewed again, I was going to make a tin plate with a hex cut in it the size of the nut, and screw it to the 2 threaded holes in the pulley, so it couldn't come loose again. I don't think any specific vibration is making your nut unscrew.

 

[TheElegantFox]

That's a shame about the oem seal NLA. Hopefully the aftermarket ones are as good. When retorquing , make sure the wrench is big enough and calibrated. Torque to over the spec a bit and it "should" be ok. Like i said, this worked for mine.
If mine ever unscrewed again, I was going to make a tin plate with a hex cut in it the size of the nut, and screw it to the 2 threaded holes in the pulley, so it couldn't come loose again. I don't think any specific vibration is making your nut unscrew.

I wonder if they didn’t torque it enough at the shop. They say they got pretty close with a breaker bar but it still may have not been enough.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Hey all,

I've had a time keeping the 3FE in my FJ62 chugging due to the crank pulley nut walking off. Here's the thread from when it originally happened: FJ62/3FE sheared one of the serpentine pulleys - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-3fe-sheared-one-of-the-serpentine-pulleys.1261525/

Since then it's been ok for a few miles or so but it recently walked off on me again, the nut was literally resting on my sway bar this time, got mega lucky. I had my local shop torque it down and use some thread locker only for the nut to get loose within 10 miles of engine time. They mentioned it's likely a bent crank causing some harmonic vibrations that are walking the nut off. A replacement/repair would end up being an engine rebuild basically with dropping the power plant out of the truck and sending it off to the machine shop for the pros to asses what needs rebuilding.

Does an engine rebuild sound like the next possible step? Other than the crank, the block is holding compression fine and general performance is good for the 242k miles on the truck.

i have a NOS 90179-22010 sealed in its original parts bag , and a TUBE OF RED LOCH-TITE


PM me

i can offer OVERNIGHT Express mail USPS for only $23 , best darn deal on the planet thru posted !

 

[cruisermatt]

sounds like you need to tighten it like a man. With a 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel

 

[TheElegantFox]

sounds like you need to tighten it like a man. With a 1/2" Milwaukee Fuel

I was thinking of getting a 46mm wrench to keep around just in case. I’d have to special order it though since no store keeps wrenches that large on the shelf.

 

[cruisermatt]

I was thinking of getting a 46mm wrench to keep around just in case. I’d have to special order it though since no store keeps wrenches that large on the shelf.

This may sound like a odd question but how physically large are you / how strong are you? You most likely are not going to get it tight enough with a wrench pulling with your arms while laying on the ground.

what we do in the shop when we need to do timing cover work on 60's is drop the four crossmember bolts and tilt the whole powertrain back so I can get my big impact on the crank pulley. obviously radiator/accessories are all out at that point

 

[TheElegantFox]

This may sound like a odd question but how physically large are you / how strong are you? You most likely are not going to get it tight enough with a wrench pulling with your arms while laying on the ground.

what we do in the shop when we need to do timing cover work on 60's is drop the four crossmember bolts and tilt the whole powertrain back so I can get my big impact on the crank pulley. obviously radiator/accessories are all out at that point

Well, definitely not strong enough to get close to that. I did pick up a 1/2 Milwaukee impact driver but I don’t think it has the torque figure of air tools or the Fuel range.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Ok, I’ve secured a NOS crank bolt from Toyota Matt and now I’m planning the reattachment.

Based on this FSM scan, there’s two wrench types needed to remove/install the crank nut but I’m not sure what the SST tool they’re referencing is:

From the FSM, the torque figure we’re aiming for is 253 ft/lb : 343 N/M

 

[Lead Head]

The SST engages the crank damper itself so you can hold the engine stationary.

I took the inspection cover off my bellhousing and jammed a breaker bar into the flywheel.

 

[TheElegantFox]

Ok, here's my plan. Let me know if I'm overlooking anything or missing any parts.

NOS Crank Bolt
Red Locktite
New Engine Crankshaft Seal
SOR Speed Sleeve

After some troubleshooting calls I have some theories.

1. The crank end might be scored/not holding a seal.
2. Seal might've been botched on the install.

I think we can say that after the first walk off, the reinstall wasn't torqued to spec(likely no locktite either) and backed itself out pretty easily. I think on the 2nd torque down of the reinstall, the crank nut did get torqued at least enough(plus locktite this time) to not back out quickly like before based on the sharpie marks not moving. However, due to the profuse oil leak under engine load, I think the crank seal is bad and a speed sleeve is a good call with a new OEM crank seal.

 

[OSS]

When using Loctite, it’s important that the two mating threads are very clean before applying it and torquing down.
Also the data sheet says full strength is reached in 24 hours, but I’ve backed off a bolt that had been sealed with loctite after 36 hours and there still was wet uncured Loctite residue on the threads - it hadn’t cured yet.

Maybe get their primer too.

 

[TheElegantFox]

When using Loctite, it’s important that the two mating threads are very clean before applying it and torquing down.
Also the data sheet says full strength is reached in 24 hours, but I’ve backed off a bolt that had been sealed with loctite after 36 hours and there still was wet uncured Loctite residue on the threads - it hadn’t cured yet.

Maybe get their primer too.

Ah, that's good to know. I'll have the shop let the truck sit for 36 hours after the reinstall to be sure.

 

[Whiskerz]

Could the damper be failing ? Inner and outer halves moving around more than they should ? I would consider putting a paint mark on the 2 halves and checking it

 

[TheElegantFox]

Could the damper be failing ? Inner and outer halves moving around more than they should ? I would consider putting a paint mark on the 2 halves and checking it

Will definitely take a look at this

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[TheElegantFox]

Just got conformation that the new from Toyota main crank bolt order did go through. Not sure if they found an old box in the back or what. I’ll have to compare it to the NOS bolt when it comes in, I’m definitely skeptical.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Just got conformation that the new from Toyota main crank bolt order did go through. Not sure if they found an old box in the back or what. I’ll have to compare it to the NOS bolt when it comes in, I’m definitely skeptical.

my NOS one is Still sealed in the original Parts bag and clearly labeled with the correct toyota oem part #

its been NLA / disc. for approx . 7 years now .....

TOYOTA PARTS STEAL are scammers BEWARE !

its all a smoke and mirrors show pony side show

they make it appear they have all the good parts available in stock , this is a false hopes crushed operation BOTTOM LINE !


take the latest bla bla BUZZZ here in 40 series tech on the available $97 nos gas tanks ?

all bull SH#T !

 

[TheElegantFox]

my NOS one is Still sealed in the original Parts bag and clearly labeled with the correct toyota oem part #

its been NLA / disc. for approx . 7 years now .....

TOYOTA PARTS STEAL are scammers BEWARE !

its all a smoke and mirrors show pony side show

they make it appear they have all the good parts available in stock , this is a false hopes crushed operation BOTTOM LINE !


take the latest bla bla BUZZZ here in 40 series tech on the available $97 nos gas tanks ?

all bull SH#T !

Yeah, there’s a high chance I just return the new Toyota one when it arrives, especially since one store already hit an order with NLA.