3FE, 32's, and 4:88's?

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Why exactly are you going for the 95+ birfs and flanges? The early ones leave the option of a direct bolt on lockable hubs (if you're into that kinda thing).
 
This is my dd, so I like the full time 4x4. I thought about adding the hubs, but after reading everything on here I decided it was a waste. I also thought about using the birf elim., but then decided to leave well enough alone. After all it's done very well reaching 180,000 miles with it's original set-up. Although birfs are quite a bit more expensive than a u-joint...:D

I thought that the deeper, longer splined shafts and flanges would hold up better, last longer. You've got me thinking again though. I think that I could switch to a part-time case in the future. Maybe then I'll have some late model 80 slightly used Birfs for sale.:D
 
You just contradicted yourself. 31's are FACTORY OPTION for the Toyota LC80, no matter what version/type/engine/transmission/country. 4.10s and 28-29" are STOCK no matter what versions/type/engine/transmission/country, it's just that Mr. T thought it would be OK to put the 31s on most of everything, while they were slowly working towords the FZJ80.

You have a stock FJ80, and you haven't tried 4.88s and 32s yet, and 98% of the experience on the 80s section is with the 212hp 1FZFE not the 155hp 3FE, if you would notice in the 60's section that most are running 4.88s with 33-35" tires, they have the same tranny, same motor, and same stock diff gears with LESS weight and LESS driveline to spin.

I'd vote 4.88's would be the best option for a 3FE'd 80 with tires 32-35 and 4.56's should have been part of the "tow package" that included the 31" tires.


Interesting... you just told Jon he doesn't know what he's talking about and he bought his 91 new off the showroom floor when you were 1.5 years old...
Not saying you are were wrong to do that, just saying that it is interesting.
 
Personally, i have stock gears and 35 BFG MT's and bought a set of 32" BFG AT's for traveling for my job and had them 1 week before I resold them.... the highway RPM's were too outragous for me. I couldn't imagine 4.88's with 32's on the highway. Would the RPM's be over 3500?
I usually ride at 2100RPM with stock gears and 35's
 
I run 2100 RPMs at 70 with 32's in OD. My '92 wants to be in the 2500 RPM plus range to power up the hills. Go figure?:D
 
Interesting... you just told Jon he doesn't know what he's talking about and he bought his 91 new off the showroom floor when you were 1.5 years old...
Not saying you are were wrong to do that, just saying that it is interesting.

That's assuming the dealership be bought it from knows what they are doing, and that he was an informed buyer. I know what my FSM says, I also know what CDan has said, and both of those state that 31's are not "stock" for 91/92 cruisers, just VERY common. That said, 31's on stock gears works great, but 31's with 4.56s would have been better.

With my cruiser, 33's on stock gearing is awful compared to any explorer, an FZJ, even a stock FJ60, but it cruises 85mph with ease, I think that cruising closer to 75mph yet having more pep at 55 and below would be awesome. I guess if interstate speeds of 70+ are a majority of what you drive, then it would be better on stock gears up to 33's, maybe even 35's. For city and back country driving with 35-55mph zones, I would say 4.88s up to 35s would be the best choice.
 
That's assuming the dealership be bought it from knows what they are doing, and that he was an informed buyer.

That's an interesting point you bring up. Things were a bit different then. The majority of 80 Series being produced were being shipped to UN forces during the Gulf War. Dealers on the east coast had none on the showroom floors. I remember calling (we used telephones alot back then) every Toyota dealer within 100 miles just to see one up close and to get a test drive. As for information, all we had were sales pamphlets. Dealers knew nothing about them other than they couldn't get them and people wanted them. Can you say "way over sticker price"? I waited 3 months for mine to show up from Japan and paid sticker for it.

I was as informed as possible given the information and tools at my disposal and your attitude is starting to annoy me a bit. Yes, you are correct, 31" tires were technically an option, but you would have had to special order your truck without it as they were being built for the US market almost exclusively with that package. Like I stated in my previous post, it's pretty safe to say that 31" tires were standard issue.
 
MJADD...
How's the gears? You posted that they were being installed... you like them?
 
I run 295/75/R16s on the OEM 16x8 rims with stock gears and no problems in town or on the highway. As with any 3FE, "slow and low...that is the tempo".
 
Well, I can only go thirty MPH at 4200 RPM...
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:D
They're in but no Birfs yet. I'm waiting on Slee's shipment. Maybe by early next week the 80 will be finished, and back on the road.

I'll let Y'all know as soon as I get it back.
 
That's an interesting point you bring up. Things were a bit different then. The majority of 80 Series being produced were being shipped to UN forces during the Gulf War. Dealers on the east coast had none on the showroom floors. I remember calling (we used telephones alot back then) every Toyota dealer within 100 miles just to see one up close and to get a test drive. As for information, all we had were sales pamphlets. Dealers knew nothing about them other than they couldn't get them and people wanted them. Can you say "way over sticker price"? I waited 3 months for mine to show up from Japan and paid sticker for it.

I was as informed as possible given the information and tools at my disposal and your attitude is starting to annoy me a bit. Yes, you are correct, 31" tires were technically an option, but you would have had to special order your truck without it as they were being built for the US market almost exclusively with that package. Like I stated in my previous post, it's pretty safe to say that 31" tires were standard issue.

That is what I had assumed was the conditions with buying at that time. The difference I speak of is the difference between standard and stock. It IS pretty standard to have 31's on all US 80s, but that was a risk Mr. T took and thought would work fine. I drove my '91 with 245/75r15 LTX's for about 2 weeks while I was waiting for my rims to be sandblasted. With the smaller tires everything felt better, and I was in the powerband no matter what. That tire was a little bit bigger than a 28. I would assume that with 33's and 4.88s things would be fairly similar to what I experienced with the 28s on 4.10s.

I would like to apologize for my attitude, although your's wasn't exactly "open" either. Sorry, no hard feelings?
 
I would like to apologize for my attitude, although your's wasn't exactly "open" either. Sorry, no hard feelings?

It's all good. FWIW I spent 4 years with stock gears and 32x11.50R15 BFG ATs. Towed by brother's FJ40 over the Pocono mountains on a dual axle trailer. Spent a lot of time in 3rd gear on that one.
 
I got a look at the 80 today. Still waiting on Birfs. The drive-flanges were bad, as well as the birfs. I also had the d-shafts cleaned, and new joints and grease all around. The ring gears, and bearings etc. were all pristine. Amazing for a vehicle with 180,000 miles on it. Well...all that should get rid of the clunk... I hope.

I've got some engine cleaning to do when I get it back. That leaky power stearing pump made a mess.

Can't wait to get the 80 back!
 
I got a look at the 80 today. Still waiting on Birfs. The drive-flanges were bad, as well as the birfs. I also had the d-shafts cleaned, and new joints and grease all around. The ring gears, and bearings etc. were all pristine. Amazing for a vehicle with 180,000 miles on it. Well...all that should get rid of the clunk... I hope.

I've got some engine cleaning to do when I get it back. That leaky power stearing pump made a mess.

Can't wait to get the 80 back!

That clunk you describe might need to be fixed with a McNamara gear... When do you hear the clunk? when switching from R to D and vice-versa?
 
Yes, when shifting to d, r, and if I'm not easy on the "go" pedal. I found that running in 3 around town causes less clunk between 3, and 4, OD.

I've read about the McNamara gear, but found that it was only for the FJ 62's as their out-put shaft in the t-cases are different. Everything I read, said to check the drive-line for slop. I found the slop in the Birfs (major slop), slop in the D-Flange, and did the C-Dan test on those. The U-joints in the d-shafts didn't appear to have slop while on the truck, once out noticable sticky, crunchy movement. The splines in the slip yokes were nasty. Old grease, that didn't allow much smooth travel.

All those things have been addressed. The D-shafts got all new Toyota u-joints, and cleaned splines for the slips, with new grease. New Birfs (waiting), new D-flanges (also waiting for).

The ring gears were good (my noise from the clunk seemed to be comming from the front anyway), pinions good. A little grinding from the front pinion bearing. I decided to regear, and have the whole front rebuilt at this point (thanks Chris).

I'm hoping that will fix most of the clunk. Maybe an inevitable T-case rebuild. But I'll save that fix for later. I want to run it to 300,000 miles, then rebuild or replace, Motor, tranny, and t-case. I really want to stay all Yota.

This round of fixes has ginven me confidence that the d-line will hold up to my dd. I'm having fixes done, doing some myself, to make it a comfortable, already reliable, dd.
 
Yeah I realize alot of people say that it doesn't apply on the FJ80's and I personally have no experience with the mcnamara or the "weld-in-PTO" so it is hearsay. What I can tell you is that I know of an LC mechanic who's done a few and reported good things, and I have personally seen the output shaft of an '91 80 and it was very apparrent that slop was coming from the 1" contact on the shaft. The way it's been explained to me is that "it doesn't matter what model the xfer case the shaft is part of, what matters is what attaches to the shaft and with that reagrd both 62's and 80's share the same features". FWIW, again, hearsay.
When a buddy let's/helps me fix my rear main leak (whenever that happens) we will also be looking to do the weld-in fix.
I'm blindly optimistic.
 
It appears you've covered this but did you try coating the D-flanges with grease? This did nothing for me, but some say it cures the clunks for a few months... just another thought.
If I'm not mistaken, Jon you told me on the 3FE list a loooong time ago that alot of the 80's shipped with dry flanges.

Man, now I'm obsessing about my clunking. Mine is definitely coming from the xfer/trans area. We've literally laid under the wagon while shifting back and forth.
 
Thanks for the info. I will be looking into that a little more if the problem persists. The D-flanges had grease in them, but there was alot (comparitively) of slop in the splines. Some wear on the flange, and the axle shaft splines. The Birfs had alot of play in them. The new Birfs and flanges are from a newer year model, with the better spline design.

The rear axle seals were leaking too, those are getting replaced with toyota parts too.

I would really like to run a part time case someday. Maybe an Atlas, or?

I'm trying to get all the minor issues (poorly maint. parts) in good working order. Over all the 80 is in great shape. Then I'll need a slight lift with some 33's, or I mean, I'll be ready for them. :D

As soon as I get it back, I'm puting in a new stereo, speakers and CB. A few more projects till I call it done for the spring summer. Then I'm going campin', wheelin', and cannoeing.

Let me know how your project with the case turns out when you do it.

Thanks again.
 
cannoeing.

Don't go there... oooh you did! I'm pumped about this coming spring. We got into canoeing last summer and I've been foaming at the mouth to start back up... We'll be making bigger trips this year, some even over night floats.
 

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