3D printed fix for floppy vents
- Thread starter mct75
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- Thread starter
- #42
Ok, now that's cool!
inkpot
SILVER Star
How about printing up the trim sections for sunriibb
Thanks! I've worked in the additive metals field for 5 years, titanium, inconel, aluminum, cobalt chrome, coppers, stainless, etc...
Typically my day revolves around printing aerospace components and medical implants/devices... it's nice to have a little break and make some stuff for my cars. If you want, Ill mail you a pair of these Ti64 parts that you designed. (I certainly dont need 9! lol)
inkpot
SILVER Star
That should be : SUNROOF!
What!?!? I have seen metal infused PLA and even metal 3D printers, but never one that can do titanium. Care to explain the process and machine?Can the fancy machines play too?
Spent a few minutes at work today and threw some on our titanium 3d printer.
Your engine will melt before these do.
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alia176
SILVER Star
The talent on this board is nothing sort of phenomenal. All I can say is wow!
I'd order me a set but then end up losing them since my vents are all ok for now. I'll just subscribe to this thread for the future.
I'd order me a set but then end up losing them since my vents are all ok for now. I'll just subscribe to this thread for the future.
I'll definitely make a write up about the process. I'm in a meeting right now, but will put something together in a little bit. Depending how in-depth it gets, I might just make a new thread.
Definitely want to know what machine your using and what it costs? Would love to see what the material looks like going into the machine. Titanium doesn't really flex so I don't see a spool of wire being a good option. Excited to see what info you post.
- Thread starter
- #51
I'm going to guess that you don't actually. We used to have a Stratasys that was $$$,$$$ and it only printed in plastic!
It wont scare me. I looked into a metal printing machine that was over $100k. Just never saw one that had titanium as a printable material. $100k wasn't a number I could do at the time so I just hired a machinist with his own machines to make all of my metal products.
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Things have really picked up at today, so this will be a "short" post. I will gather my thoughts and ideas into a new thread later this month to explain the process entirely. I've always wanted to make a little side business of printing metal parts for forum communities I participate in. This would take some pricing evaluation, as well as permission from the boss... but certainly might happen in the near future.
Ok, so metals 3d printing quick and dirty:
I currently use an EOS M280 DMLS machine. This is a "powder bed" additive process. The raw material (in this case Ti-6Al-4V) is spherical powder made via gas atomization. The size of the powder particles is 10-45 microns in diameter (think of flour from your pantry, but made of metal). The melting source is a 400W laser.
To "print":
1) A CAD model is sliced into layers (typically 20-40 microns thick). These 2D cross section slices become layers stacked in the Z-axis.
2) A start plate is loaded into the machine. The machine door is closed and filled with inert gas (Argon or Nitrogen depending on the alloy)
3) A thin layer of metal powder is spread evenly across the top of the start plate. This layer of powder is typically 20 microns thick.
4) The laser scans the first 2D cross section. Where the laser scanned, the metal powder melted and solidified.
5) The build stage (and all the powder resting on it) lowers 20 microns
6) An arm spreads another thin layer of powder on top of the previous layer.
7) The next 2D cross section is scanned by the laser
8) Repeat steps 5-7 for every layer in your slice file generated in step 1
9) When done printing, the part sits buried in metal powder. As you raise the build stage, the powder can be pushed aside to reveal the part. (think archaeology but metal parts instead of dino bones) All of the powder that was not melted can be reused for the next print.
10) The part is welded to the start plate, so it must be removed. Small parts can sometimes be removed by hand, but large surface area welded to the plate requires wire EDM.
Here is a pretty decent animation of the process (technically a competitor, but we never invested in fancy animations like this):
How much does it cost? lol... brace yourself.
The base price for most laser powder bed machines is ~$650K, but then you need all the consumables, post processing, powdered metal, etc.
A safe estimate is $1M to be up and running with your first machine. $650K for each additional machine.
Metal powder isn't cheap... especially titanium. Right now, the cheapest (spherical) titanium powder is around $280/kg. Stainless and CoCrMo are cheaper, but still way more pricey than bar stock.
Most service providers with additive metal machines will charge in the $75-100/ hour for machine time, + $material, + $whatever post processing you require. (heat treat, polishing, blasting, etc.)
All I've got time for today, but will post a novel after I write it. (if there is interest)
I'm glad to answer any questions people may have about metals 3d printing. I do it for a living...
Ok, so metals 3d printing quick and dirty:
I currently use an EOS M280 DMLS machine. This is a "powder bed" additive process. The raw material (in this case Ti-6Al-4V) is spherical powder made via gas atomization. The size of the powder particles is 10-45 microns in diameter (think of flour from your pantry, but made of metal). The melting source is a 400W laser.
To "print":
1) A CAD model is sliced into layers (typically 20-40 microns thick). These 2D cross section slices become layers stacked in the Z-axis.
2) A start plate is loaded into the machine. The machine door is closed and filled with inert gas (Argon or Nitrogen depending on the alloy)
3) A thin layer of metal powder is spread evenly across the top of the start plate. This layer of powder is typically 20 microns thick.
4) The laser scans the first 2D cross section. Where the laser scanned, the metal powder melted and solidified.
5) The build stage (and all the powder resting on it) lowers 20 microns
6) An arm spreads another thin layer of powder on top of the previous layer.
7) The next 2D cross section is scanned by the laser
8) Repeat steps 5-7 for every layer in your slice file generated in step 1
9) When done printing, the part sits buried in metal powder. As you raise the build stage, the powder can be pushed aside to reveal the part. (think archaeology but metal parts instead of dino bones) All of the powder that was not melted can be reused for the next print.
10) The part is welded to the start plate, so it must be removed. Small parts can sometimes be removed by hand, but large surface area welded to the plate requires wire EDM.
Here is a pretty decent animation of the process (technically a competitor, but we never invested in fancy animations like this):
How much does it cost? lol... brace yourself.
The base price for most laser powder bed machines is ~$650K, but then you need all the consumables, post processing, powdered metal, etc.
A safe estimate is $1M to be up and running with your first machine. $650K for each additional machine.
Metal powder isn't cheap... especially titanium. Right now, the cheapest (spherical) titanium powder is around $280/kg. Stainless and CoCrMo are cheaper, but still way more pricey than bar stock.
Most service providers with additive metal machines will charge in the $75-100/ hour for machine time, + $material, + $whatever post processing you require. (heat treat, polishing, blasting, etc.)
All I've got time for today, but will post a novel after I write it. (if there is interest)
I'm glad to answer any questions people may have about metals 3d printing. I do it for a living...
Sweet. $1,000,000. Is that all. The ones I looked at last year were much smaller and in the $100k-$200k but lacked the reliability and serviceability that I needed for something that costly. The CNC approach was WAY less expensive and the right fit for me. I am going to continue to monitor this industry and will be jumping in when the smaller commercial metal printers get into the 20-30k range for a quality, reliable, heavily field test machine. I remember when 3D printers were in the 100k range. Now you can get sub $1k machines that can run circles around the old stratasys machines.
Sign me up. I too suffer from droopy vent syndrome.
I would love a set as well. All my vents are broken. Fantastic fix - thanks for doing this!
Slim D
SILVER Star
I'm definitely interested in a set!
Not sure I was clear a few days ago. I will take what you make!
- Thread starter
- #59
I PMed a "batch" of people after making up a few sets, and haven't heard back from them. Thus, the parts I had saved up are available again. If people are still interested after my disclaimer of "only tested on my 92" I'll take requests via PM now. That is easier than reaching out to people who don't reply.
PM'ed
