3B injector pump troubleshooting? (1 Viewer)

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The part number 22390-56290 shows its used on all 1HZ 1PZ and all the other B engines with the rotary pump. And I think there is only one solenoid for 12v and 24v because the 24v Coasters are also using.
 
I think this may be your pump, it shows the filter.
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Bargain
Seems it also fits some Mazda VW Nissan and Isuzu
Bargain
Seems it also fits some Mazda VW Nissan and Isuzu
That part number cross reference is awesome! Thankyou! I won't be buying the one on EBAY because it's out of Taiwan and would take a month to get to me, but with all that cross reference I can probably get one from my local parts store.
 
I would even consider a used one, they are so reliable, you would have to be unlucky to have 2 fail in a lifetime. A diesel injection shop may sell you one. They strip the good parts from pumps that cant be repaired.
 
I would even consider a used one, they are so reliable, you would have to be unlucky to have 2 fail in a lifetime. A diesel injection shop may sell you one. They strip the good parts from pumps that cant be repaired.
That is good advice. If the solonoid coil is bad and not just a gummed up plunger I will probably remove the plunger so at least the engine is running again. I can do manual stall shutdown if need be till I get another solonoid (if the solonoid is in fact my problem). If the solonoids were cheap I'd already have one on order to be ready/waiting.............Funny now that you bring up the used solonoid, I was at our local scrap metal recycler looking for a mix gas welding cylinder that could be brought back into service (they have alot of these and sometimes serviceable still with gas in them). I found a NOS delphi IP sitting with other junk. There was a young couple there looking for salvageable stuff they could use. I gave the husband the IP and suggested he could probably clean it up and put it on EBAY (this recycler will let individuals pick through things and sell it back out at the same price as the they sell to the big companies)..... I'll probably go back over there and look for a solonoid if mine is in fact bad.
 
That is good advice. If the solonoid coil is bad and not just a gummed up plunger I will probably remove the plunger so at least the engine is running again. I can do manual stall shutdown if need be till I get another solonoid (if the solonoid is in fact my problem). If the solonoids were cheap I'd already have one on order to be ready/waiting.............Funny now that you bring up the used solonoid, I was at our local scrap metal recycler looking for a mix gas welding cylinder that could be brought back into service (they have alot of these and sometimes serviceable still with gas in them). I found a NOS delphi IP sitting with other junk. There was a young couple there looking for salvageable stuff they could use. I gave the husband the IP and suggested he could probably clean it up and put it on EBAY (this recycler will let individuals pick through things and sell it back out at the same price as the they sell to the big companies)..... I'll probably go back over there and look for a solonoid if mine is in fact bad.
The solonoid is bad. Got it out today. Plunger moves freely it is not gummed up. Put 24v to it and nothing happens, plunger doesn't move. I spent some time searching/cross referencing part numbers on the Ebay add provided by roscofj73 above. Most of those were actually 12V and mine is 24V. It is likely that the 12V works on the 24V and perhaps the manufacturers have found reliability of the 12V part run on 24V to be sufficient that they no longer offer the 24V only part???...........At any rate. Toyota and ND part numbers cross reference to a Bosch part number used on VE rotary pumps. On VE pump solonoids I find this part# for 24V 0330001016,0330001047
I"m ordering this one off of Amazon: Amazon product ASIN B07X7T8L1MIt'll be here on Monday and if it doesn't work I can send it back and order a different one specifically for a toyota 3b for 4-5 times the price and wait a week to get it.
 
Solenoids are usually rated for an operating voltage of plus or minus 10% of the nominal rated voltage (ie. 12vdc or 24vdc). Some very expensive solenoid coils are rated much higher, but it’s doubtful that a cheapie Amazon special will do much more than release a solitary puff of its “magic operating smoke” when double voltaged.... 😱
And since your engine requires it to be charged and operating all the time it’s running, you’re better off to bite the bullet and get the proper one first. Good luck!
 
Solenoids are usually rated for an operating voltage of plus or minus 10% of the nominal rated voltage (ie. 12vdc or 24vdc). Some very expensive solenoid coils are rated much higher, but it’s doubtful that a cheapie Amazon special will do much more than release a solitary puff of its “magic operating smoke” when double voltaged.... 😱
And since your engine requires it to be charged and operating all the time it’s running, you’re better off to bite the bullet and get the proper one first. Good luck!
The one I ordered is 24v. The part number cross references suggest that the cutoff solonoid for bosch ve rotary pumps are compatible with ND rotary pumps.....It's a bit of complicated searching and cross referencing. Both 12 and 24v solonoid are available for bosch ve pumps.
 
New solonoid came in today. It fits and works. Only change is I had to use the original thin o ring instead of 2 thick ones with the new solonoid. So fuel cut off solonoids for bosch ve pumps on 5.9 Cummins will work with the ND rotary pump on a number of toyota diesels. These can be sourced for 12 and 24 v.
Unfortunately in trying to get out the old solonoid I removed the top of the pump and now my fuel rack and fuel screw settings are off as well as my new fuel filter setup causing trouble. Will work on it tomorrow.

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Removed fuel filter and bypassed. I can start it on starting fluid and it will crank, run, and idle, fine. Turn the key and it shuts off fine, but it will not restart on its own without the starting fluid. It's like the fuel pump will not suck fuel at low speed when the engine is being turned by the starter. ..,...

Air in the pump?

Anyone have any ideas?
 
Most likely air. Is it driveable? Once you get them running, they should self purge the air in a few minutes.
 
Most likely air. Is it driveable? Once you get them running, they should self purge the air in a few minutes.
I haven't driven it yet. I'll let it sit there and idle for 10 minutes rev it a few times no issue turn the key to off it shuts off. Try to crank it back and it won't start unless I spray some starting fluid to fire it over. Once running it runs fine. Replace the copper washers on the fuel line I reused with new ones but that didn't solve it. I'll take it for a drive tomorrow see if it source itself out.
 
It is likely that the 12V works on the 24V and perhaps the manufacturers have found reliability of the 12V part run on 24V to be sufficient that they no longer offer the 24V only part???


22390-56290 is used on the Coasters with the 1HZ 1HD T and they are all 24v. Also used on 24v Dynas and Megacruiser Someone on this forum tested them and found they worked ok on both voltages.
 
That's what I was trying to say.
 
Went outside today and the Land cruiser started right up after sitting overnight. So without shutting it down I picked up my tools and button things up. Then went for 20 minute drive everything ran fine. Took it to the high pressure spray wash left and running for about 20 minutes while I washed extensively. Drove 10 minutes back to the house. She ran fine the entire time. Turned her off shut off promptly. Try to start her back and she won't fire no smoke from the tailpipe. ...... This seems like air in the fuel to me. Like it gets foamed up or something inside the pump causing it to cavitate with just a starter motor turning it........ ..after the shutdown and failure to start I let it sit for an hour and it fired right up. Let it run about 10 seconds and shut it off and it fired up again fine. Let it run 30 seconds and shut it off, and it won't start again.

I have a proper spin on fuel filter that fits the Toyota housing coming into advance Auto in the morning. I'll install that with maybe a couple new pieces of fuel line and run it for a while and see if this problem goes away. If that doesnt do it I'm really not sure this point.
 
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Detach the fuel return hose from the injection pump and point the end into a container. You might need another piece of fuel line. Get the engine running and see how much fuel is going back to the tank. The rotary pumps can send 2/3 rds of the fuel coming into the pump back to the tank. It does this to keep it cool and lubricate itself. Once the pump is full it diverts the excess fuel back to the tank.
I think this may tell us how the feed pump is doing.

But I suspect its air getting in somewhere. A piece of clear hose between the filter and the pump can tell you if there is air in the lines.
 
Detach the fuel return hose from the injection pump and point the end into a container. You might need another piece of fuel line. Get the engine running and see how much fuel is going back to the tank. The rotary pumps can send 2/3 rds of the fuel coming into the pump back to the tank. It does this to keep it cool and lubricate itself. Once the pump is full it diverts the excess fuel back to the tank.
I think this may tell us how the feed pump is doing.

But I suspect its air getting in somewhere. A piece of clear hose between the filter and the pump can tell you if there is air in the lines.
I put on the proper fuel filter with factory housing. It is worse now. I'm having fuel starvation issues when driving it. I'm going to do the trick with the clear hose and check fuel return next as you suggest.

Off and on I hear guys talking about the lift pump on the 3B injection pump. I'm going to attach a picture of my pump. Maybe somebody could point it out to me. Is that something that can be easily fixed replaced repaired? Or does it require removal of the IP?

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