3B engine temp

[618Henrik]

Yes I know that the meter is not very accurate.
But this is where mine climbs to at highway cruising speed.
Is it to high? Dosent seem to go higher than that.

If I am going to put a probe in the coolant hose for an accurate measure, whitch temperature is then ok?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

The 3b thermostat housing that I have on the shelf has an extra threaded port that an addition probe can be added.

 

[brownbear]

yah for a toyota gauge that looks about right. My 3B gets the temp to about that much deflection on the gauge when on the highway.

If you have a hand held temp gauge (infrared) you could pull over and see what it is on a few locations like the water pump housing, the thermostat etc.

When my 3B was naturally aspirated (before the turbo) I bought an Exhaust Gas Temp gauge. I drilled the exhaust and put in the probe. It was amazing to see what was going on with the different load and speeds. I was also able to tune the fuel metering with the EGT gauge. I had some room to add fuel and increased my power output quite a bit.

SO if you want to add a water temp gauge I would also add an EGT gauge.

 

[618Henrik]

Pretty sure that there is an extra port in the thermostat housing, might add an temp gauge there.
I do have an infrared thermometer, will try to measure in the weekend. But what temp should i expect as the max? 98C?

 

[brownbear]

Oddly I am used to F, not C for engine temp. As everything I owned with numerical gauges is in F.

Operating around 200 is normal., Going up to 230 i've seen and is okay. Hitting 250 is bad. Boil over is imminent. With steam and other potential failures.

220 degrees Fahrenheit = 104 degrees Celsius

210 degrees Fahrenheit = 98 degrees Celsius

Got to remember boiling temp is not 100 C in a rad, it's higher. it's under pressure.

I also found that in my cruiser if I used too much antifreeze mix with water it did not keep things as cool. Water has a better ability to transfer heat and release heat than the antifreeze does. So I made sure I had enough water. If you own an antifreeze/coolant tester you do not need the ability to go to -75 or such, you know -30 is okay. Cause on the flip side of being to strong of a mix you will build up heat too quickly.

On one trip I constantly got really high on my temp gauge, right on the red line. No boil over, but I would pull over and idle to cool it down. Remember to do that! No shutting it off. Shutting it off lets the coolant not move and the hot areas boil the coolant and cause steam which expands and cracks metal....

In the case where I kept getting too warm I drained my rad a little and added water. It lowered my freezing tolerance, but my ability to transfer heat increased and I did not have the issue of over heating again.

 

[Bandit_guy]

The temp needle should stay in the middle. Check the radiator for blown out fins or blockage, even on the hottest days in the summer it should climb that high. I had issues of high temps climbing hills and whenl I pulled the radiator out to I found most of the bottom half had rotted away but couldn't be seen until the shroud was off. A few hundred dollars to re-core and all was is good again.

 

[Dieseler]

Ideally your needle should sit at the 2/3s marks that's were all of mine sit with a definite space between the needle and the high mark.

What thermostat do you have there is two different temp settings for all the Bs

 

[OGBeno]

Oddly I am used to F, not C for engine temp. As everything I owned with numerical gauges is in F.

Operating around 200 is normal., Going up to 230 i've seen and is okay. Hitting 250 is bad. Boil over is imminent. With steam and other potential failures.

220 degrees Fahrenheit = 104 degrees Celsius

210 degrees Fahrenheit = 98 degrees Celsius

These figures are exactly the same for me in the SE US (low elevation, humid, high ambient heat for 8 months of the year). 3B, rotary pump, GT2052 turbo, no intercooler.

 

[618Henrik]

This weekend was cold and rainy so didnt got a chance to measure. The radiator is new, but not original.
I will be measuring during this week and hopefully find that it is arund the 98-104 c

Thanks for the numbers and advices

 

[OGBeno]

This weekend was cold and rainy so didnt got a chance to measure. The radiator is new, but not original.
I will be measuring during this week and hopefully find that it is arund the 98-104 c

Thanks for the numbers and advices

I am also in the process of switching over and trying the (expensive) Evans Waterless Coolant. I don't know if you can purchase this in Denmark, but might be worth a shot.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I'm running Evans, and have been posting lots about it's advantages. One thing I should tell you guys though, is don't expect to run cooler temps with it on average. It actually runs just a little bit hotter. The advantage is though, you don't have to ever worry about localized boiling or complete boil over. Also, because there is no localized boiling (small bubbles insulating metal from the coolant), there is better heat transfer on average, so the engine metal temperature is more even than it would be with regular water coolant. Basically less heat in the metal and more heat in the coolant.

I found when I'm towing under worst case conditions in summer heat the coolant temps start rising, but only to a point, and then they stabilize. The coolant barely expands into the expansion tank even when quite hot. I'll get it up to about 110C absolute worse case on long mountain climbs in 30C+ weather towing my 3500lb+ camper trailer. A couple things to remember though. Diesels get great economy (are quite efficient) at 88C or so which is where I run 99% of the time. Also, when coolant is hotter, there is a larger temperature difference between ambient, and it actually enables a smaller cooling system to more efficiently dump the heat energy. This is why the coolant temps stabilize with the Evans at a certain point, where a regular coolant would just have gone into boil over.

I did tow with water based coolant for a couple years, and I can tell you towing with the Evans is a world of difference. It is such a nice thing to have. My engine temperature worries are past and I have come to complete trust the stuff. I run the 2LTE engine which is notorious for cooling issues and cracked heads. So if it works for that motor, it'll certainly work for the rest of the Toyota diesels.

Gerg also ran Evans in his compound turbo 3B setup while towing a larger trailer than mine. He also had good luck with it and was able to push his 60 very hard.

 

[alberta mac]

you can't go wrong with a mechanical after market gauge ! I have water and oil temp gauges in my 42 !

 

[David*BJ70]

My BJ42, regardless of the condition never go above 205°F. Usually around 195°F

Pretty sure that there is an extra port in the thermostat housing, might add an temp gauge there.
I do have an infrared thermometer, will try to measure in the weekend. But what temp should i expect as the max? 98C?

This is where I put my mech gauge on my BJ42 (and on my ex-BJ70 as weel)

(left port on the pic)

Here is what is stated in the owner manual (in French but easy to understand) :

 

[DenDen]

@David*BJ70 What size adapter did you use for your aftermarket sender? I can't find the thread size. It looks a bit bigger than M16x1.5 OEM sender.

 

[David*BJ70]

To be honest, I do not recall the thread pattern.


What I know is that : I bought the gauge kit in a local auto part supplier and in this kit, I found few adaptor that we can put on the temperature sensor thread pattern. One of these adaptors has the correct thread pattern for the houssing. I bought 2 kit from 2 different brands (Sunpro – Autometer) and both of them have the correct adaptor.


I have few mech gauge hardware at home. I’ll try to find if I have another adaptor that I can check.


I pretty confident that «most» of the gauge kit comes with several adaptors with the correct one among them.

 

[dare]

The forward most sender plug on mine was 1/2" BSP.

I put an aftermarket gauge on mine and that, above all else allowed me to manage my overheating problem on a trip a long way from home. The factory gauge was inconsistent, inaccurate and slow to react. By the time it moved it was boiling over! That was a 70 series though.

I've got an alloy HDJ7x radiator now and an 82°c thermostat. On the road it runs between 82(normal driving) and 87°c (very big hills) (179-189°f) but my system holds no pressure due to a damaged sealing surface for the radiator cap. I'm hoping to be sand dune proof in summer once I get a new thermostat housing/the system holds pressure. It doesn't overheat now but I do need the heater sometimes.

 

[David*BJ70]

Do no know the thread patern but I do know the size of this plug and adaptor is 21mm

 

[DenDen]

1/2 BSP it is! Thanks guys!

 

[lostmarbles]

1/2 BSP it is! Thanks guys!

To be technically correct, it is 1/2 BSPT where the "T" stands for "taper" (because you can have British Standard Pipe threads in "parallel format" too where they don't have any taper and that is represented as 1/2 BSP).

(When such a thread is tapered it needs a "T" in its description but when it is a parallel thread it doesn't need any additional letter beyond "BSP".)

 

[Augusts96]

I couldn't recommend an engine watchdog enough.