350 vs. 2F ???? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter dowen
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reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
I'm agree with "hindsight". If you are new to this madness find a 'Cruiser someone has put some effort into and buy if price is right. If you're not familiar with the shortcomings of used FJ40's (i.e. rust, drum brake front axles, etc.) hook up with someone that is. I have (and love) a 350/700R4, but have had my share of F-engines and manual transmissions. When I do conversions for other folks I always ask "why". If they have done their "due diligence" they are always happy with the result. If they are doing a conversion because all of their buddies have one, or they look cool in the magazines, the result is much different. This hobby can tap a lot of cash if you're not careful.
- Thread starter
- #23
I agree with what you're saying about finding a cruiser that someone has put a lot of time and thought into.
Just throwing this out there, but since I have a lot of people's attention does anyone have or know of someone with a good conversion for sale? Or even a nice 2f?
Thanks.
Just throwing this out there, but since I have a lot of people's attention does anyone have or know of someone with a good conversion for sale? Or even a nice 2f?
Thanks.
350 conversions come in all kinds. They can be hack jobs, or just like they would have came from the factory. They can have less low end or more. They can crawl better or worse than the 2F/F. While I really like the original motors, and their value is higher, their low end torque advantage is overstated. For 350 hp 350's then yes, its true. But for stock 350s, especially fuel injected, no. My TBI'd 350 idles and pulls from 600 rpm. Its almost like being lower geared since it will idle and run so low. The downside of course is that it isn't all that powerful for a 350. If I had to guess, I'd say 200 hp.
Good luck! Just keep an eye out for the quality of the conversion (where the engine is placed, signs of overheating issues, transfer case mounts, if the trans tunnel was hacked up, wiring, etc).
Good luck! Just keep an eye out for the quality of the conversion (where the engine is placed, signs of overheating issues, transfer case mounts, if the trans tunnel was hacked up, wiring, etc).
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
X2, base 1 gen crate motor base model 230hp, next 1 up has a better cam & jumps to a whopping 260 hp. Add vortec heads & add approx 50hp.
For me, it is all about playing devils advocate.
All my buddies have swapped axles, drivetrain and motors to GM power. I go everywhere, without breakage and I enjoy it.
Carb problem, I switched to Propane, late model full electronic ignition (all factory crap) and I'm still running a stock Trans-tcase and I have attempted or done most of the hardest trails in Moab, which is where I enjoy going.
That said, I rarely road drive the FJ40, that is what my FJ62 is for and as soon as the 3FE goes, it is 5.3 V8 or Diesel time.
All my buddies have swapped axles, drivetrain and motors to GM power. I go everywhere, without breakage and I enjoy it.
Carb problem, I switched to Propane, late model full electronic ignition (all factory crap) and I'm still running a stock Trans-tcase and I have attempted or done most of the hardest trails in Moab, which is where I enjoy going.
That said, I rarely road drive the FJ40, that is what my FJ62 is for and as soon as the 3FE goes, it is 5.3 V8 or Diesel time.
Bottom line is .."What do you use it for?'
If you trailer it to trails or seldom drive over 100 miles to a trailhead, the 6 works great if you
throw in a non USA 4speed and an a deeper transfer gear set. About 60:1 final drive or better makes a
great trail truck.
If you're the guy that packs up and drive his 40 from California to South Dakota to do a trail, you should consider a V-8 and overdrive. For less fatigue , noise and mileage.
If you go V-8 and want the same crawling characteristics of the six your final drive needs to be lower
or you'll need an auto. A mildly tuned V-8 pulls well to 600 rpm but a good 2F will keep pulling to 350rpm. If you do an auto, go 700r, it has the best 1st gear, and plan something like an Orion.
With stock axle gears this gives you a final drive around 50:1. To match that crawl-ability with a standard transmission you'd need to come up with a final drive around 80-90:1.
If you trailer it to trails or seldom drive over 100 miles to a trailhead, the 6 works great if you
throw in a non USA 4speed and an a deeper transfer gear set. About 60:1 final drive or better makes a
great trail truck.
If you're the guy that packs up and drive his 40 from California to South Dakota to do a trail, you should consider a V-8 and overdrive. For less fatigue , noise and mileage.
If you go V-8 and want the same crawling characteristics of the six your final drive needs to be lower
or you'll need an auto. A mildly tuned V-8 pulls well to 600 rpm but a good 2F will keep pulling to 350rpm. If you do an auto, go 700r, it has the best 1st gear, and plan something like an Orion.
With stock axle gears this gives you a final drive around 50:1. To match that crawl-ability with a standard transmission you'd need to come up with a final drive around 80-90:1.
