35" tyres on landcrusier

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you it fabricated at some shop, right? I was wondering what the name of the shop was?

I just drilled the body lift "pucks" from UHMWPE (think cutting board material) 12mm sheet in my drill press with a couple different hole saws, etc. The material I found at that time happened to be black in color with a UV inhibitor. I doubt if the UV inhibitor is a big deal given the pucks location; same with color.

I don't know if I have any material left but I was offering at one time to do these for $75 for the set (UV, black material).
 
If you really wanted to fix it, you would've changed it to 285/75R18 ;)

Who the heck came up with this standard anyway? Width in millimeters and wheel diameter in inches? :rolleyes:

Details details: Sheesh! Probably Americans since we like to have complicated units of measure and volume :rolleyes:.
 
sorry guy's i ment 285x70xr16 tyre's and i would go to 315x70xr16 new t-bars, diff drop kit and then change my diff ratio's to 4.88 so you think i might have to get new rims ??????got a bit lost in reading the reply's
 
Correct. It is sugested that you change rim size to 18" so as to end up with a taller and thinner tire. Many options here in the US in that size rim. Not so for the tire size. Spress knows what up.
 
Hi Spressomon, I wanted to follow up on this thread... Thanks in advance for answering.

If my current GY MT/R Kevlar's last an honest 25K I will buy another set based on the ~8K miles I've put on them to date.

Its been about 10 months since your above statement. How are the GY MT/R Kevlar's doing? Are you still happy with them? After studying the MUD postings, this tire is the one I keep coming back to.

you have a custom body lift on your 100 series, right?

Yes: 12mm. This was relatively easy, cheap and very effective for 35's.

You say the body lift is very effective for 35's. Do you feel your body lift was necessary to run 35's? What issues will one have without the body lift?

I now have the new Slee rear bumper (w/ tire carrier & ladder), the new Slee front bumper (w/ M12000 winch) and Slee's Heavy Load 2.5" Lift Kit (OME front + SOF2RH rear). The next weight increases will be tires, rock sliders and a roof rack. I am not planning to put a drawer system in but it will be full of camping gear when we head to the backcountry. No ultra-serious rock climbing planned but large rock strewn desert trails, heavily moguled hills and mud filled desert washes (in winter) will be common. Pictures will be posted when the tires are on :beer:
 
You will get inner rear fender rub at max or near max suspension articulation and inner front fender skirt rub at full compression with 35" tires and sans BL.

I've been 100% pleased with the GY MT/R Kevlar tires from a traction on all surfaces perspective. Looks like, for me (I'm hard on tires), they'll go 22k...I was hoping for a bit more but it is what it is with softer rubber compound for better performance as compared to the prior MT/R version.
 
I now have the new Slee rear bumper (w/ tire carrier & ladder), the new Slee front bumper (w/ M12000 winch) and Slee's Heavy Load 2.5" Lift Kit (OME front + SOF2RH rear). The next weight increases will be tires, rock sliders and a roof rack. I am not planning to put a drawer system in but it will be full of camping gear when we head to the backcountry. No ultra-serious rock climbing planned but large rock strewn desert trails, heavily moguled hills and mud filled desert washes (in winter) will be common. Pictures will be posted when the tires are on :beer:

Your description above is the sort of touring I set up my 2005 TD for here in Australia.
I have 35x12.5 18R Procomp muds on their 19mm offset rims, new upper control arms from the US, a little massaging and trimming of the front inner guards was all I needed.

100525Darren100Series_050.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I may take it slow, start with 33's and see how it goes.

Nice looking truck Muddy... Which roof rack do you have? A snorkel is lower on my priority list but my son is trying to convince me to move it up. :lol:
 
Thanks guys. I may take it slow, start with 33's and see how it goes.

Nice looking truck Muddy... Which roof rack do you have? A snorkel is lower on my priority list but my son is trying to convince me to move it up. :lol:

Its an old ARB I had on my first 100, 1998 petrol 4.5, the Snorkel is a big move cutting a hole in your guard.
 
To run 35's:
Do you need wheel spacers? No
Do you need to do a body lift? No

Like anything however, different folks try different approaches and that's great because we all gain knowledge. From there we make our own decisions.

Adding 35's is easy...information is in the link below.

Should you add wheel spacers? Not recommended
Should you do a body lift? Not required

Upsize to 315x75-16 Tires - John Shotts (shottscruisers)'s Photos
 
How are you guys dealing with this (attached pictures) or maybe it just the flexibility of AHC but Im not near full compression. With the wheel turned slightly there is a big problem at full compression with tire contact and the fender.
295 fender.webp
front stuff.webp
 
The '07 AHC Cruiser we played with showed front travel the same as non-AHC. 7.5" and limited by the IFS design. Your scenario happened when I went to 35's 120,000 miles ago. I had to re-raise my 100 up to avoid this. At 2.75" up it does not hit.

132978764_GJT7U-XL.jpg


988423300_QR4ex-XL.jpg
 
However so far the GY MT/R Kevlar's are turning out to be a great tire for me in a wide variety of conditions. Can't wait to try them in the snow (OK...well truthfully since its only October I CAN wait to try them in the snow :lol:).

Spresso - Aren't those uni-directional? That's about the only downside I could see (if it could be considered a downside). I still miss the old MTRs, though...
 
Spresso - Aren't those uni-directional? That's about the only downside I could see (if it could be considered a downside). I still miss the old MTRs, though...

Yes. The previous MT/R gen was harder rubber thus better lifespan in terms of miles. But no compare on every surface I've driven. Just can't seem to get/have both: 40K longevity and high performance on most surfaces.
 
Raising the vehicle height has nothing to do with bottoming out bump stop. So if you are not having the problem you are not getting full compression.
No mods were done to the travel in the vehicle I pictured.

Yes...however raising vehicle height has EVERYTHING to do with keeping that tire from hitting that fender when you have 35's on-board. You want to fix your issue...lift the front a bit more to my height.
 
Yes...however raising vehicle height has EVERYTHING to do with keeping that tire from hitting that fender when you have 35's on-board. You want to fix your issue...lift the front a bit more to my height.

I think what LandCruiserPhil is saying is that lifting the front will not prevent that situation--it will only make it less likely. Under full compression, one will end up in the same situation regardless of the level of suspension "lift". Only way to completely prevent the situation is to limit the travel of the suspension, or to raise the body (i.e., body lift). Unless I'm missing something... :confused:
 
I think what LandCruiserPhil is saying is that lifting the front will not prevent that situation--it will only make it less likely. Under full compression, one will end up in the same situation regardless of the level of suspension "lift". Only way to completely prevent the situation is to limit the travel of the suspension, or to raise the body (i.e., body lift). Unless I'm missing something... :confused:

No...you and Phil are correct. I think we've been around this block before...the bump stop/fender ultimately limit the up suspension up travel. But I'm sure "we'll" go round and round on this too :-/
 
This is real simple. Take the pic below. I am compressed, I have full suspension travel, My 35 does NOT hit the fender now or if I turn in either direction.

IF I lower my front end by an inch (via T-bar) then that fender would be one inch lower in this picture. And when I turned the tire would make contact with the fender. This scenario (setup) would not work in the real world. As Phil said it would be a big problem.

You only have to bump stop the suspension IF there' no way to add more lift. Since enough lift if possible on the 100 in combo with a 35 you don't need to limit your travel by bumpstop changes. Lift-alone does the trick.

132978764_GJT7U-XL.jpg
 

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