35" tire size on 100 series (2 Viewers)

[fj100invb]

I'm relatively new to the forum. Just put on a 2.5" slee heavy lift. I mounted 33's (Nitto Ridge Grappler 275/70r18s on stock 2004 wheels) on it with 1.25" wheel spacers but the gap in the back it still huge (about 7" from tire to wheel well bottom). I've read a bunuch of threads that mounting 35's causes rubbing but I'm interested to hear experience from people who have done it and how much trimming was required. I also mounted the Slee reservoir shocks in the front wheel well and not sure if that also affects whether you can run a narrow 35" tire. I am looking at the Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75r18s. 35.08 X 11.26.

Thanks in advance for anyone that can help a newbie.

 

[ChewBaca]

Hey, You will get some rubbing with 35's on. I currently have on 285/75 Nitto RG on and for the most part no issues. Once i get off road i start to rub on the back part of the fender. I installed timbren bumpstops and that has helped but I'm not an extreme off roader. I use my vehicle on mostly low to moderate trails, basically just to get me as close to the lake as possible. I've ran 33's and 34's which were 295/70 RGs. I did do a pinch weld mod when i had on my 295s, that worked and had no rubbing when off roading. If you want to look great around town then 35s wiill work but if you want to also wheel then i suggest 295/70, its just my opinion. In the future I'm moving to a true 34" 285/70 Nitto RG. I think that would be the best tire in my situation.

 

[Trist]

There are other threads discussing the 285/75R18 size, but since they are so narrow they probably won't rub on the frame or upper ball joint, but will most likely rub under full compression in the front and maybe full articulation in the rear (without a 1'' BL). Unless you are wheeling your truck hard 35s are not worth it. I am running 315/75R16 Pro Comp MT2s because they are the narrowest tire in that size (11.7'') and I do not want to run spacers. Under full compression in the front I think that I have some rubbing and in the rear I have slight rubbing on the frame rail. I had to trim the plastic covers that cover the engine bay and cut the plastic around the pinch weld but didn't have to physically beat back the pinch weld. Oddly enough I did have rubbing on the protrusion near the upper ball joint on the driver side, but none on the passenger side. We just shaved the protrusion from the ball joint down. I have the aftermarket SPC UCAs. There is a noticeable difference in braking, handling and overall on-road performance with the 35s and I plan on getting t-case gears to help turn the big tires on and off-road.

If your rear is unloaded with the heavy springs then you probably have too much lift. Wheel your truck on 33s and if you find yourself needing the 35s then get them. Developing driver skill with 33s will probably get you more places than less experience on 35s. If you want to run a wider tire like a 315 with stock offset wheels you will almost surely need spacers unless you run the Pro Comp MT2 or find another tire just as narrow. Overall I would advise against 35s unless you are wheeling on black/difficult rated trails.

 

[Riviera]

35 in tires on 100 series.

Slee medium 2.5 lift and 35s

 

[fj100invb]

Hey, You will get some rubbing with 35's on. I currently have on 285/75 Nitto RG on and for the most part no issues. Once i get off road i start to rub on the back part of the fender. I installed timbren bumpstops and that has helped but I'm not an extreme off roader. I use my vehicle on mostly low to moderate trails, basically just to get me as close to the lake as possible. I've ran 33's and 34's which were 295/70 RGs. I did do a pinch weld mod when i had on my 295s, that worked and had no rubbing when off roading. If you want to look great around town then 35s wiill work but if you want to also wheel then i suggest 295/70, its just my opinion. In the future I'm moving to a true 34" 285/70 Nitto RG. I think that would be the best tire in my situation.

Thanks very helpful. I plan to use my Hundy pretty much the same way you have described mainly on road but occasionally off-road in snow or light trails. Not planning to do a whole lot of rock climbing. I like the look of the 35s better because they just seem to fill out the wheel well a little better so I think I will go that direction with your input and then try the bump stops if I get any rubbing. I had also looked at the 285/70s that you describe but I’m afraid that that wouldn’t make enough of a difference in the look of filling out the wheel well With the 2.5 inch lift installed.

35 in tires on 100 series.

Slee medium 2.5 lift and 35s

Perfect. Thank you. I think I'm going to go with the Nitto RG 285/75 r18s. Not going to do too much heavy wheeling to start but will do the 1" body lift that others have described later if I get the rubbing. Thanks for the link.

 

[fj100invb]

Now I just need to get some mud on my Hundy!

 

[fj100invb]

One last dumb question. I installed the Slee reservoir shocks as part of the 2.5" heavy lift. Will that impact the size tire that I can run with the reservoir mounted against the inside of the front wheel well? Seems like that would be the biggest limiting factor. I apologize for my ignorance on this topic. Brand new to lifting a vehicle and wheeling in general.

 

[fj100invb]

There are other threads discussing the 285/75R18 size, but since they are so narrow they probably won't rub on the frame or upper ball joint, but will most likely rub under full compression in the front and maybe full articulation in the rear (without a 1'' BL). Unless you are wheeling your truck hard 35s are not worth it. I am running 315/75R16 Pro Comp MT2s because they are the narrowest tire in that size (11.7'') and I do not want to run spacers. Under full compression in the front I think that I have some rubbing and in the rear I have slight rubbing on the frame rail. I had to trim the plastic covers that cover the engine bay and cut the plastic around the pinch weld but didn't have to physically beat back the pinch weld. Oddly enough I did have rubbing on the protrusion near the upper ball joint on the driver side, but none on the passenger side. We just shaved the protrusion from the ball joint down. I have the aftermarket SPC UCAs. There is a noticeable difference in braking, handling and overall on-road performance with the 35s and I plan on getting t-case gears to help turn the big tires on and off-road.

If your rear is unloaded with the heavy springs then you probably have too much lift. Wheel your truck on 33s and if you find yourself needing the 35s then get them. Developing driver skill with 33s will probably get you more places than less experience on 35s. If you want to run a wider tire like a 315 with stock offset wheels you will almost surely need spacers unless you run the Pro Comp MT2 or find another tire just as narrow. Overall I would advise against 35s unless you are wheeling on black/difficult rated trails.

Very helpful thank you. Maybe I do have too much lift. I have the Slee rear bumper but nothing else. I guess maybe I should have gone 1.5" or medium lift with the 33's like you mentioned.

 

[fj100invb]

Here is the stance of my 2004 after putting on the heavy Slee 2.5" lift with 33" tires (Nitto RG 275/70r18s that are 33.2 X 10.5). The shop that put it on told me they had cranked down the torsion bars as much as they could without it rubbing but the fender gaps still looks HUGE to me especially in the front. I am brand new to doing mods to a 100 series and am not sure what it is supposed to look like but this looks wacked. HELP!!!!

They are also telling me that if I put the 35" tires on (28/75r18 35.08 X 11.25) they will rub all the time, especially on the reservoir shock. And that if I did the 1" body lift that others have described, I would get the same fender gap but just with bigger tires.

Here are pictures of mine:

Was hoping to get more of this look in the picture below which is an iconic Landcruiser that I have seen lots of pictures of since I first started planning to do mine. I think if I'm not mistaken, this one has Nitto Trail Grappler MT 285/75r18s with a 1" body lift (looks that way at least from the small gap between the bumper and the body). Apologies for posting this picture of someone else's rig but wanted to show what I was trying to get. Will take down after replies are posted. Thanks again for all the post to help me out on this and I'll try to make some posts as I get more familiar with what I'm doing to help others. I put in a really good sounding Audio Control / Focal stereo system and dialed it in very tight with the DSP. Will post detailed on that for anyone looks for a great audio option. -Dave

View attachment 1879326

 

[saucebox]

It looks like they tried to level your front end (maybe it's just the photo?). You should turn those (torsion bars) back down a little so you have a rake. Better steering/handling. The gap in the front should look similar to the one in the back.

The shop isn't wrong about 35s. 34s still rub at full lock after adjusting the torsion bars a few times (I think there's probably a sweet spot for me, but haven't found it yet and it's too cold out). I don't have reservoir shocks, so I can't speak to that.

Edit: the planned body lift would change what sizes are or are not feasible. Because of course.

 

[fj100invb]

It looks like they tried to level your front end (maybe it's just the photo?). You should turn those (torsion bars) back down a little so you have a rake. Better steering/handling. The gap in the front should look similar to the one in the back.

The shop isn't wrong about 35s. 34s still rub at full lock after adjusting the torsion bars a few times (I think there's probably a sweet spot for me, but haven't found it yet and it's too cold out). I don't have reservoir shocks, so I can't speak to that.

Edit: the planned body lift would change what sizes are or are not feasible. Because of course.

Yes I asked them to give it a rake of 3/4-1". Maybe I was using the wrong terminology because they said this was the maximum they could lower the front.

 

[saucebox]

Maybe it needs to be re-indexed? This PDF from the SLEE install guide (for an OME lift, but all are similar): http://www.sleeoffroad.com/installation/UZJ100_Suspension_Install.pdf

There are some good threads in the FAQ here about re-indexing bars.

 

[bozncsurf]

Listen to @saucebox Your front end needs to come down quite a bit. You’ll notice an instant improvement in handling.

Btw your truck looks great - by far the best color. After you lower the front - enjoy the tires you already own and use the money on a set of sliders to replace the running boards. Grab a set of Slee / spidertrax wheel spacers to inexpensively improve the stance.

Don’t second guess your equipment - it’s top of the line! Just get it all dialed in and you’ll be good to go.

 

[fj100invb]

Listen to @saucebox Your front end needs to come down quite a bit. You’ll notice an instant improvement in handling.

Btw your truck looks great - by far the best color. After you lower the front - enjoy the tires you already own and use the money on a set of sliders to replace the running boards. Grab a set of Slee / spidertrax wheel spacers to inexpensively improve the stance.

Don’t second guess your equipment - it’s top of the line! Just get it all dialed in and you’ll be good to go.

Thanks man. I put on the slee 1.25” spacers already. I went with the White Knuckle sliders b/c I liked the shape a little better. They were a little backlogged so should’ve in in a few weeks.

 

[bozncsurf]

Thanks man. I put on the slee 1.25” spacers already. I went with the White Knuckle sliders b/c I liked the shape a little better. They were a little backlogged so should’ve in in a few weeks.

Nice. Well it sounds like your almost there.

Regarding your picture above of fender liner - this is a common area for tire rubbing - behind it is the pinch weld. Hammer the weld, heat & re-shape the liner. @duvinclunk posted some pics of this in his build thread. He runs 35s on aggressive offset wheels + remote reservoir shocks so I’m sure you have more room than the shop is telling you.

 

[hoser]

x2 on your front end being too high. Jack up the front until the front wheels are off the ground and measure your center of wheel to fender lip. Subtract 50-60mm from that measurement and that'll be your target ride height.

If you are contemplating the body lift, I would put a hold on the sliders until you decide.... as WKOR could probably customize your sliders to accommodate a 1" body lift.

 

[fj100invb]

x2 on your front end being too high. Jack up the front until the front wheels are off the ground and measure your center of wheel to fender lip. Subtract 50-60mm from that measurement and that'll be your target ride height.

If you are contemplating the body lift, I would put a hold on the sliders until you decide.... as WKOR could probably customize your sliders to accommodate a 1" body lift.

Yep I originally ordered the sliders with the 1” body lift option then changed my mind b/c I thought everything was gonna fit without it. If I can get the front end dropped down so it looks good I may just stick with the 33s for awhile and not do the body lift to get used to wheeling it and avoid having to re-gear it.

 

[hoser]

I think that is a good plan. 33's are a popular choice for a reason. The bigger, taller you go, the more compromises you make on acceleration, braking, handling, fuel mileage, etc. If you don't plan for more weight, you could also consider swapping the rear coils to reduce the amount of lift.

 

[vman07]

I have Slee remote resi's in the front and there is no tire contact (33s) with the reservoir.

 

[gungriffin]

x2 on your front end being too high. Jack up the front until the front wheels are off the ground and measure your center of wheel to fender lip. Subtract 50-60mm from that measurement and that'll be your target ride height.

If you are contemplating the body lift, I would put a hold on the sliders until you decide.... as WKOR could probably customize your sliders to accommodate a 1" body lift.

As another option, I have a body lift and standard height sliders. It is nice having the sliders a bit away more away from the body. It makes them easier to use as a step in normal day to day driving.