35” rubbing

[Markuson]

Know what you’re getting before you decide:

I love my 35’s...BUT...I have to admit that it is the ONE major mod I’ve done where utility/performance was not the only consideration. In other words...part of it was that I like the look. There ARE benefits too. -Just like going from a 26” mountain bike to a 29er...there are definitely times where you appreciate size, height, and the improved ability to roll over/through stuff where smaller tires hang up or “fall in” more easily.

On the third hand...you lose power (especially without gears!), reduce up-travel, gain weight, unsparing weight, grind through brake pads and rotors more quickly, and are restricted to a single spare (ok, you can throw another tire inside, but who wants to roll with that?). MPG suffers, passing power and towing capacity suffer due to essentially making all your gears higher.

When I FINALLY regear and to a brake upgrade that I need anyway...improvement will be massive.
But it’s important to know what you’re taking on in moving to 35’s.

 

[TexAZ]

My comment was directed at anyone looking into what it takes to run 35s. this thread has run the gamut of minor fixes to keep the tires from rubbing. I offered up the Tundra swap as a one stop fix, using Toyota parts.

If you've run 35s and that's not your bag, so be it. run whatever tickles your pickle.
since the OP has made the jump and is running 35s, lets look at all the options to keep the tires out of places they shouldn't be.

To Mark's point, running 35s definitely benefits from gearing change and upgraded brakes.
I love running 35s because I still run the stock Tupperware bumpers. Bigger tires, bigger lift, keeps the plastic off the rocks.

 

[mcgaskins]

The OP could potentially also return the tires for a smaller size (most tire shops have a satisfaction guarantee), so that's an option too. Worst case if he wants to run smaller tires, he can sell the 35s on craigslist to get back most of his money. To me it makes a ton more sense to take a small ding on the cost to run a better size tire than to spend potentially thousands getting the parts to do a Tundra swap, especially considering he already has Icons and SPC UCAs. What tickles my pickle is getting out and wheeling instead of tinkering around in the garage or repairing junk on the trail because I'm pushing the limits of what the intended design of the truck is.

 

[SchobTime]

I don't really understand how this post got off track. The OP has made the move to running 35s and is looking for suggestions on how to eliminate rubbing. I do not believe he is asking for recommendations on other tire sizes. Did I miss something? If that is the ask, then run 33" ProComp MT2s and call it a day as they are far superior to any 34" or 35" tire on a 200 Series.

 

[linuxgod]

I'm with @mcgaskins. 34s are much easier to make work than 35s (minimal rubbing after minor fender liner work, spare fits fine), so if the OP can swap them that is the route I'd advise. 35s only add 1/2" of clearance and hurt mileage/performance so unless you love the look of 35s it's a lot of work for minimal benefit IMO.

If the OP wants to run 35s then he's going to need wheel spacers or different wheels, the Slee relo bracket, an amazing alignment guru, and probably still some patience with rubbing at full lock. Re-gearing isn't required but IIRC 4.30:1 on 35s is the same as 3.90:1 on factory 31s, so expect a noticeable performance hit, especially if you tow anything

The Tundra swap is an interesting option for those just starting out who haven't yet done a suspension upgrade and want to push the envelope. But the OP has an Icon lift already so going the Tundra route seems like an expensive way to fit 35s.

BTW I played with various tire sizes and personally I think 34s on 17" wheels or 35s on 18" wheels look the best, but again it's just my opinion

 

[mcgaskins]

I don't really understand how this post got off track. The OP has made the move to running 35s and is looking for suggestions on how to eliminate the rubbing. I do not believe he is asking for recommendations on other tire sizes. Did I miss something? If that is the ask, then run 33" ProComp MT2s and call it a day as they are far superior to any 34" or 35" tire.

I truly hope the 33” ProComp being superior to any 34” or 35” tire is sarcasm.

The OP has come here for advice, and the reality is there is no simple and straightforward way to run 35s without compromise. You can add the KDSS relocation which helps, but it creates other issues like destroying bushings and causes binding. I personally ran it along with 35s and didn’t like it because there were too many trade offs. Most reasonable people will be open to listening to ideas that aren’t a direct answer to their question, and downsizing makes more sense to most people than to forcing the issue of fitting a tire that’s generally speaking too big for the truck. The OP hasn’t given us much info like what he intends to do with the truck, how often and what kind of wheeling it will see, etc. but I see a good healthy discussion going on here of people trying to help. I wouldn’t say this thread has gotten off track at all when you have many experienced members chipping in their collective wisdom trying to help a newer member.

 

[TonyP]

The OP hasn’t given us much info like what he intends to do with the truck, how often and what kind of wheeling it will see, etc.

This is also a good point. You'll deal with less issues running fire trails or doing basic, fun trails, with 35s than you will running the silly stuff like a few of us have. Neither uses are wrong but each have their own requirements. If you're never going to have your rear tire stuffed into the fender on the bump stops (which is fine), 35s are easy to run. If you are going to test the limits, I'd go with some good 34s and some good LCA armor to hammer over shelves.

Cliffs: Do what you want, after heeding the advice of people on here with experience.

 

[SchobTime]

You are clearly missing my point. If I made a move to 35s, came to this forum and asked for suggestions/methods to eliminate rubbing. What I would expect is suggestions on how to solve the issue (not downsizing to another tire size). I could/would personally give two s***s if you had bad experiences in the past on 35s.

 

[TonyP]

Answering a question no one asked is the ih8mud way...

 

[SchobTime]

Answering a question no one asked is the ih8mud way...

haha

 

[mcgaskins]

You are clearly missing my point. If I made a move to 35s, came to this forum and asked for suggestions/methods to eliminate rubbing. What I would expect is suggestions on how to solve the issue (not downsizing to another tire size). I could/would personally give two s***s if you had bad experiences in the past on 35s.

And you are clearly missing mine If people choose to ignore advice from those with more experience who want to help them, that’s their prerogative. It’s the internet - easy to ignore things you don’t like or don’t agree with.

 

[Willy beamin]

before anyone ends up not being internet friends anymore over this controversial topic lets ask this question - we, collectively, have been noticing Ko2's, in general, run smaller than the label molded on them - so are these even close to the 34.5 stated or are they more of a big 33 or a smaller 34? tiresize.com says they measure
LT 35X12.50R18
123R E RWL 34.5" 12.5" 8.5-11" 10" 15/32" E 3415 lbs 65 psi 67.6 lbs 602

 

[SchobTime]

I stopped reading after Ko2 -

 

[SchobTime]

before anyone ends up not being internet friends anymore over this controversial topic lets ask this question - we, collectively, have been noticing Ko2's, in general, run smaller than the label molded on them - so are these even close to the 34.5 stated or are they more of a big 33 or a smaller 34? tiresize.com says they measure
LT 35X12.50R18
123R E RWL 34.5" 12.5" 8.5-11" 10" 15/32" E 3415 lbs 65 psi 67.6 lbs 602

In all seriousness - KO2s do appear to run smaller - the 34s are actually 33.5s per tire size as well

LT 325/65R18
127/124R E RWL 34.6" 13" 9-12" 9.5" 15/32" E 3860/3525 lbs 65 psi 67.1 lbs 601
LT 34X12.50R18
121R E BSW 33.5" 12.5" 8.5-11" 10" 15/32" E 3195 lbs 65 psi 63.4 lbs 621
LT 35X12.50R18
123R E RWL 34.5" 12.5" 8.5-11" 10" 15/32" E 3415 lbs 65 psi 67.6 lbs 602

 

[linuxgod]

My Nitto 34s purport to be 34x11.5 on the tire, though 285/75R17 is technically 33.8". Measured at 38psi they are about 33.2" to 33.3" - they are E load and to get 33.8" (or 34") I would need to run them at 80psi. My 34s just barely kiss the KDSS arm at full lock, when running at 4 degrees of caster (slightly over the Toyota spec'ed range)

If the 35" KO2s are 34.5" they won't just rub but will dig into the KDSS bar in a stock-ish setup, unless you reduce caster significantly. Pics of how bad this rubs would help, though I've found that rubbing increases when you're moving and the body and suspension rolls and flexes a bit - so photos while parked may not quite tell the tale. From the photos the cruiserheads here can help determine the best course(s) of action (alignment change, KDSS relo, spacers, etc etc)

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm all for going into mods eyes wide open, and I do my part to inform of such, but let the individuals make the call whether it's worth the compromise.

I can tell you I wouldn't put up with half the compromises you guys are willing to. How else am I suppose to enjoy a full armored build out if there are no hardcore owners to live vicariously through.

For you 35" tire peeps, no one is judging that you're coming up short by tenths. Because everyone in the industry is subject to the same realities of a "35". Just like I'm not judging that your 3" lift is 1" when loaded out.

 

[Markuson]

For you 35" tire peeps, no one is judging that you're coming up short by tenths. Because everyone in the industry is subject to the same realities of a "35". Just like I'm not judging that your 3" lift is 1" when loaded out.

¿Que?

“No one judging?”

Huh?
Man these convos get weird sometimes.

 

[TonyP]

California...

 

[SchobTime]

I'm all for going into mods eyes wide open, and I do my part to inform of such, but let the individuals make the call whether it's worth the compromise.

I can tell you I wouldn't put up with half the compromises you guys are willing to. How else am I suppose to enjoy a full armored build out if there are no hardcore owners to live vicariously through.

For you 35" tire peeps, no one is judging that you're coming up short by tenths. Because everyone in the industry is subject to the same realities of a "35". Just like I'm not judging that your 3" lift is 1" when loaded out.

huh?

 

[chiplee]

I relocated the bottom of the swaybar end links to the outside of the carrier / bracket that holds them in place. Then had a solid spacer cut, with a pass through for the bolt, to fill the end link bracket void. Doing so addressed the unnatural new position caused by the kdss relo bracket. this = no bent end links. Zero issues after more than a year of driving and several hundred miles on trails.

Long shot, but how did you get away with sharing that you did this but not posting pics of the result? Seems like an ideal and relatively easy solution.