35” rubbing (1 Viewer)

[Willy beamin]

Long shot, but how did you get away with sharing that you did this but not posting pics of the result? Seems like an ideal and relatively easy solution.

Its an easy solution and all one has to do is crawl under their truck, look at the area in discussion and see the logic. Plus everyone on this thread turns a wrench, so no tutorial required.

 

[chiplee]

Its an easy solution and all one has to do is crawl under their truck, look at the area in discussion and see the logic. Plus everyone on this thread turns a wrench, so no tutorial required.

So no pic then? Hope it was clear I was just saying it sounded brilliant. I agree everyone wrenches, but it's still nice to get a look at an innovative solution that's holding up. From your text description, it sounds like you're asking a lot more of the bolt than originally intended, which might be fine, but might warrant a hardwar grade upgrade, if you know what I mean. Some kind of weld-on solution seems more durable.

 

[linuxgod]

So no pic then? Hope it was clear I was just saying it sounded brilliant. I agree everyone wrenches, but it's still nice to get a look at an innovative solution that's holding up. From your text description, it sounds like you're asking a lot more of the bolt than originally intended, which might be fine, but might warrant a hardwar grade upgrade, if you know what I mean. Some kind of weld-on solution seems more durable.

@Willy beamin did you reuse the factory bolt or replace it with a longer one? To @chiplee's point I'm wondering what type of hardware would be recommend (grade 8.8? 10.9?) if you needed something longer. Also kind of wondering if you put a bolt directly on the end link if the bushing will wear too fast (or else why would Toyota create a cradle for this instead of just bolting it directly?

@chiplee maybe have someone weld on an L-shaped metal bracket so that you can retain the "cradle" that the end link fits into? It's part of the LCA though so if you had to replace your LCA you'd need to have it re-done. Or maybe someone who already fabs custom UCAs and other suspension components like Trail Tailor will make a custom LCA with the cradle mounted further out.

 

[chiplee]

@Willy beamin did you reuse the factory bolt or replace it with a longer one? To @chiplee's point I'm wondering what type of hardware would be recommend (grade 8.8? 10.9?) if you needed something longer. Also kind of wondering if you put a bolt directly on the end link if the bushing will wear too fast (or else why would Toyota create a cradle for this instead of just bolting it directly?

@chiplee maybe have someone weld on an L-shaped metal bracket so that you can retain the "cradle" that the end link fits into? It's part of the LCA though so if you had to replace your LCA you'd need to have it re-done. Or maybe someone who already fabs custom UCAs and other suspension components like Trail Tailor will make a custom LCA with the cradle mounted further out.

View attachment 2422900

Exactly. My only thought is that a billet dog legged or side connecting (vice pass through) sway bar link might accomplish the same thing in a cleaner way without the need for future LCA mods, but either way, it's interesting to think about if guys are seeing bent sway bars.

 

[linuxgod]

Exactly. My only thought is that a billet dog legged or side connecting (vice pass through) sway bar link might accomplish the same thing in a cleaner way without the need for future LCA mods, but either way, it's interesting to think about if guys are seeing bent sway bars.

It's not the sway bars that end up bent AFAIK, just the end links.

If someone would make a different sway bar end link though I'd buy them for the same reason. (I don't have the KDSS relo bracket yet, but only because of this issue).

 

[Willy beamin]

So no pic then? Hope it was clear I was just saying it sounded brilliant. I agree everyone wrenches, but it's still nice to get a look at an innovative solution that's holding up. From your text description, it sounds like you're asking a lot more of the bolt than originally intended, which might be fine, but might warrant a hardware grade upgrade, if you know what I mean. Some kind of weld-on solution seems more durable.

oversight - apologies - I did indeed replace with a longer and upgraded bolt. I don't remember the length though. I've built an 80 series since then and all the details bleed together now. However, the sway bar end links are doing just fine. I hope this works for you if you do end up adding the Slee sway bar relocation bracket.

 

[chiplee]

It's not the sway bars that end up bent AFAIK, just the end links.

If someone would make a different sway bar end link though I'd buy them for the same reason. (I don't have the KDSS relo bracket yet, but only because of this issue).

Thanks, me too. BTW, Richards RV received my 2185 today. Just came off the line yesterday. Picking it up Friday! Stoked. LC feels completely different. Did DBA rotors and pads all around and running the TDs on 7 firmness and with 8psi in the airbags feels very stable. Went with an equalizer with 1k bars and will add air as needed to firm up the 240lb rear TD springs. Also picked up two Lion Energy Lithium batteries and two flexible Sunpower 170w panels I'll tape down myself.