34's on stock setup - it's done, now some advice...

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Ironman Foam Cell Pro kit from Metaltech is now up to $1305. SPC UCAs are a little cheaper on Amazon at $577. Buy a 22mm wrench to get the top nut off the rear shocks and you're scaring the hell out of $2k total. (Not counting the beer you have to buy to get a friend to help install)
 
A lift isn't going to change rubbing on the frame with the wheels turned - only backspacing or spacers will. I saw the updated pics of your trimming and it looks good, but I'd also trim the front bumper horizontally up a few inches for extra clearance when the suspension cycles. Not sure how far you can go up and keep the factory fog lights, but if you want to keep them I'd trim to the highest point you can without hitting the housing.
It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).

Other than the bottom corner of the bumper I don't think the front will run under normal driving now. It might rub the front top of the liner under full compression and turning - I still need to figure out how to test the articulation. Mud flap area seems to clear now but that's the sketchiest spot under normal driving, probably due to the wheel offset (which I went with to avoid uca and kdss clearance issues in the future).
 
It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).

Other than the bottom corner of the bumper I don't think the front will run under normal driving now. It might rub the front top of the liner under full compression and turning - I still need to figure out how to test the articulation. Mud flap area seems to clear now but that's the sketchiest spot under normal driving, probably due to the wheel offset (which I went with to avoid uca and kdss clearance issues in the future).
I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!

This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.

 
This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.

I was very interested in going with ironman, until I saw this video recently. I wonder if the springs he had were too stiff?
I was looking at this kit 200 Series Land Cruiser Performance Kit with Foam Cell Pro Shocks
or this Dobinsons kit Amazon.com: Dobinsons 2.0" Lift Kit Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series 2007-2016 Medium Load Front and Rear: Automotive
 
Are the Ironman shocks adjustable?

For a "budget" system my Tough Dog setup is very compliant and also a foam cell design. I had someone riding with me through the trails this weekend and they raved about how well it felt and he has Fox external resis on his Tacoma. At full soft setting its like a '83 Lincoln. At full firm it rattles your fillings. With 7 adjustments in between. Plus, UCAs aren't totally needed unless you get 35s, which I learned this weekend.
 
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The Ironman front struts are adjustable. They use a threaded collar, so you can raise or lower the spring perches to compress or relax the spring.
The spanner wrench you need to adjust them is not included in the kit and I don't know where you can buy them. They're very easy to adjust while off the vehicle, but it's pretty tough once installed.
Where did you get your Tough Dog setup?
 
One thing I'd like is to actually maintain a slight rake even after lifting, so that I have to compensate less when towing. @TonyP, I thought I read in your build thread that tough dog added about 2" up front but less in the rear?
 
One thing I'd like is to actually maintain a slight rake even after lifting, so that I have to compensate less when towing. @TonyP, I thought I read in your build thread that tough dog added about 2" up front but less in the rear?


The kit is designed for a 2" front and 1" rear, basically a loaded leveling kit. When unloaded it sits with a slight rake, but when loaded to design it sits level.

@1MAC I'm the North American distributor for Tough Dog. There are a few options for C/Os, springs and shocks.

J
 
The Ironman front struts are adjustable. They use a threaded collar, so you can raise or lower the spring perches to compress or relax the spring.
The spanner wrench you need to adjust them is not included in the kit and I don't know where you can buy them. They're very easy to adjust while off the vehicle, but it's pretty tough once installed.
Where did you get your Tough Dog setup?

I was talking about compression adjustments. I got mine from Trail Tailor (@reevesci).

One thing I'd like is to actually maintain a slight rake even after lifting, so that I have to compensate less when towing. @TonyP, I thought I read in your build thread that tough dog added about 2" up front but less in the rear?

Unloaded it's slightly raked but in my full camp setup it's fairly flat. Mind you I have heavy springs in the rear too. I towed one of my BMWs last week, not sure of the tongue weight (it was a good bit) but there was no rake then.

If you're going to Breck you can try my 200 out.
 
I was talking about compression adjustments. I got mine from Trail Tailor (@reevesci).



Unloaded it's slightly raked but in my full camp setup it's fairly flat. Mind you I have heavy springs in the rear too. I towed one of my BMWs last week, not sure of the tongue weight (it was a good bit) but there was no rake then.

If you're going to Breck you can try my 200 out.
That's a very nice offer. Wish I was going with you guys. I'm heading to Silverton Saturday with some friends in our local TLCA chapter.
I'm not totally in love with my Ironman setup. I plan to lower the front just a bit after this trip and see if the ride improves.
 
Tires are a big expense, get the size you want now and only pay once.

Slee is running 35s on stock height. Granted, he has an aftermarket bumper up front, but it looks like you've already cut away most of the lower wheel well liner in that area anyway.

If you are going to install a lift "eventually" go ahead and get the SPC upper arms. They are adjustable, which will allow you to move the wheel a little front to rear or other way around to get the clearance evened up.
 
Tires are a big expense, get the size you want now and only pay once.

Slee is running 35s on stock height. Granted, he has an aftermarket bumper up front, but it looks like you've already cut away most of the lower wheel well liner in that area anyway.

If you are going to install a lift "eventually" go ahead and get the SPC upper arms. They are adjustable, which will allow you to move the wheel a little front to rear or other way around to get the clearance evened up.

"Stock height" on the Slee, though, is on a height adjustable LX570 with ARB Sahara bar up front, and Slee rear...plus a lot of cutting and shifting of material. Also, Slee is now running Icon wheels which I think are somewhere around +40 offset. Not sure the exact number...
 
"Stock height" on the Slee, though, is on a height adjustable LX570 with ARB Sahara bar up front, and Slee rear...plus a lot of cutting and shifting of material. Also, Slee is now running Icon wheels which I think are somewhere around +40 offset. Not sure the exact number...

The Icon wheels are +25 offset. They're actually the same ones I have. I actually think I rub more because by sticking further out the edge of the tire which might tuck in behind the mud flap is now further out and rubs (or rather was rubbing) that spot.

If I do a lift I will do the UCAs. If I don't do a lift I may downgrade to 33s and run them for 4 years or so and then replace them with 34s at which point I'll have the lift and bumper sorted out. Or I may stay with 34s if I can figure out how to compress the suspension to ensure it doesn't rub when wheeling, since I seem to be running without rubbing on the road now.
 
with added length bump stops and adjustable arms, you should be able to wheel with this size tire without damaging anything.

have you tried to put a jack under the lower control arm and lift just one wheel (passenger side) then turn the steering wheel and see where you have contact?
it won't get to full compression, but should give you an idea of where the wheel will be.
 
For today's safety moment. never work or get under a vehicle supported by a jack. previous recommendation has inherent risk, so only do something like this with safety in mind. don't stick your noggin in the wheel well while on a jack!

that's what selfie sticks are for.
 
I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!

This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.


Yah I watch all of his vids, def knows what he is talking about forsure! I don't disagree with him, the Ironman CFP gets a bit rough when you push the suspension, as did all of the Old Man Emu kits I've run in my previous LC's and Tundra's. Is it the best kit out there, nope, not even close, but for a thousand bucks I knew that was the case. Like most rigs and suspensions they have their sweet spots! Doing 10 to 20mph over rough road is def not a sweet spot on the Ironman CFP kit, that's forsure, but bring it up to about 30mph+ over somewhat rough terrain and she smooth's right out. So yah if ya got an extra 3-5k laying around for a setup I would not recommend the Ironman CFP, I would proly lean toward ICON or the BP-51just from the rigs I've been around that run those. But for a grand I would say it's very similar to all of the base Old Man Emu kits I've run over the past 20 years. Just my 2 cents...
 
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I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!

This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.


Sidenote, my 200 with the CFP rides a bit nicer than my Tundra with the Old Man Emu kit on it. Just my opinion. But then that also all depended on what I was going over, the speed etc...
 
But yes without a lift the tire comes very close to the frame on the right front side when the wheel is turned right, and still comes to the mud flap area.

It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).

Right - I was referring to your earlier post when you suggested a lift might alleviate rubbing issues with the frame. A lift by itself won't affect rubbing on the frame, but wheel offset and spacing will. Even if it barely rubs the front at full lock, it's pretty easy to just back off a tiny bit on the steering to keep it from catching. My 285/75/17s on RWs doesn't rub anywhere when steering from full lock to full lock, but that's a different offset from your Icons obviously.
 
I was very interested in going with ironman, until I saw this video recently. I wonder if the springs he had were too stiff?
I was looking at this kit 200 Series Land Cruiser Performance Kit with Foam Cell Pro Shocks
or this Dobinsons kit Amazon.com: Dobinsons 2.0" Lift Kit Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series 2007-2016 Medium Load Front and Rear: Automotive
yah good point I didn't hear him mention what springs he was running on the Ironman CFP kit?!? I run the performance springs which are their softer springs.
 

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