Build 327 into fj60

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You really need to specify which chevy rear axle when statements about strength are made.

A sweet 10 bolt.... So much better.

In all seriousness a 14 bolt out of a late model 2500hd is what I would want. Disk brakes with a built in parking brake drum, 4.10 gears and limited slip. There are plenty available for under 500$. Run some 8 lug adapters up front or swap that as well and you will have a much nicer setup with many more options later. I priced it after the fact and I would have spent less going that route and been happier with the end product. Now I have a $800 adapter 3.7 rear end no locker. To get even close to a stock chevy setup I would have to change the gears, install a low cost limited slip and convert to disks which would run me over $1000. At that point the axle would have no parking brake and still be considerably weaker.
 
I'm not afraid of the ECU I just don't want to deal with one.
Not much to "deal with" and they can make diagnosing an issue easier sometimes.

Yeah I'm sure there is quite a price difference between them! Lol

diesel repairs are a little out of my price range too.
They aren't that expensive, and shouldn't be very frequent.

I'm gonna end up making it into a mud bogger. It's an IL truck and it's gonna get run in the mud.

I can also get a turbo 350 transmission for 40 bucks.
Mud sucks and gets into everything and tears it up. But to each their own. and there is a reason a TH350 is so cheap.

Tentatively the plan I'm going with is 327 engine, turbo 350 trans and np205 tcase. Go SOA with the yota axles and build spring packs with the 60 spring packs I have and some 62 rear springs packs. Regear to 4.11's and run 38 boggers on 17's. Get new drive shafts made up.

If I go with the np205 will I need to run a Chevy rear axle?

that engine with a TH350 is not gonna be very highway happy at all, also that transfer case is a 1.98:1 the stock toyota one is 2.28:1, tho the slip of the auto will make up for the difference in gearing pretty easily. the 4.11 gears and 38 boggers will NOT be a good combo at all. extremely under geared. They engine will rev like a big gay mud truck and be all loud but the tires arent gonna have any wheel speed. It may sound cool, but in reality the auto is just slipping cause the gearing and power are wrong for that combo. Not to mention those boggers are HEAVY! I have 39.5 boggers on my crawler and each one weighs 110lbs each with NO wheel. I also run a centered 14B chevy 1 ton rear axle with a yota t-case (opposite of what you are thinking) and so my driveshaft is at an angle, this is no problem for binding, however you may have a vibration problem if you do not run a DC.

Damn those adapters are steep!

I looked a little bit ago and the belhousing to go from a v8 to h42 is almost $1300.
I have a SBC to a land cruiser manual transmission bellhousing in my shed....

If you are going for power, you'll see a ton of ranger overdrive parts on the trail one day
:doh::bang:

:popcorn::lol::cheers:
 
I am rethinking a lot of aspects of the set up I came up with.

Gonna keep the 327 though. It was a gift from a friend and it was given to me because he wants to see me to put that engine in my truck.

You bring up a lot of good points Cruisinfj60.

I'm now leaning towards keeping the Toyota running gear and putting the 327 in front of it. I was shocked @ the price for Mark's adapter with out looking @ what came with it. But it would make the swap qik-n-slee-z
:)

The truck will get run in the mud a lot but maybe one day I'll get to head west and do some rock crawling.

Do you think I would be better off with 4.56 or 4.88 gears? What ratio are you running?
 
I am currently running 4.56's in both of my rigs. My crawler has the 39.5 boggers and a built D60 up front and 14B out back with an SM420 (7.05:1 first) to a 2.28 toybox to an early 3 speed cruiser case (2.31:1) giving me 169.32:1 crawl ratio. But it is an absolute dog in high range and struggles to get up to speed in 4th.

My Fiona (light duty crawler / street legal rig) is on 38.5 Bias TSL with stock H42 4 speed (3.55:1), stock split case transfer case (2.28:1) and once you get moving it does just kinda ok, in the rocks it isn't nearly low enough and would greatly benefit from a lower first gear and some lower axles gears. That truck being a street truck still I would probably run a 4.88 and a different trans to better suit my needs.

your truck plans being on similar sized tires I suggest going to the 4.88. That will enable you to maintain enough wheel speed that is needed in the mud but gearing low enough to easily cruise around town and you will still have a little bit of rubber overdrive (spedo will read slower than what you are actually moving due to larger tires.) enabling you to keep the RPM at a tolerable and more fuel efficient level.

As some have said it is technically not legal to put an engine that is older than the vehicle it is going into in it. The engine must be the same year or newer than the vehicle it will go into. Now that said depending on location of you and the could be purchaser this could be a major deal breaker and could take the vehicle off the market instantly to a large number of people. On the other hand, the buyer just may not know or care and therefore it wouldnt matter to either party. Just something to consider.

On the 327... A lot of people I see are bashing it, and it does have some flaws for sure depending on the year of the heads and what not, among other things, but it is still a good motor. Yes you will loose a little torque down low over a 350, but you will be pretty even to the I6 (at about 800 RPM) and you will have much more as the RPM's come up. So I think you will be happy. I think in the long run you would be much happier with a nice powerful and light 5.3, or LQ4 or LQ9 6.0. But it is your truck and you can do as you please.

I am going to be doing a 350 swap into my crawler in the next year or so depending on how business stays. Only real reason for me to switch... A buddy of mine with a YJ is dropping an LT1 into it and being that I have the smaller tires, heavier rig, and still on leafs all around (only one of the group I wheel with and I have the smallest tires and biggest rig...) I am playing "keeping up with the Jones'". It does help that I already have my 350 that has been rebuilt a few years ago and has been in my garage wrapped in plastic awaiting its time to be used. I will be running 96-99 chevy vortec heads to help a little with power as well as an edelbrock air gap intake with a decent duration cam (it will kill my bottom end but I have enough gearing it wont matter to much) supporting valve train and some longer rockers and to make sure to bump it into the 400+hp range I will be using my nitrous I pulled off of another car I sold a while back and keeping my propane.
 
Dude thank you for the advice! I assure you it won't be lost on me.

I looked at a gearing calculator and I'll be @ 3200 rpm's @ 75 mph. If I run 38's with 4.88 gears. My speedometer will be wwaaaaayyy off but I'm looking @ autometer electronic gauges.

I'm planning on keeping the crane fireball cam and use arp hardware. Run an edelbrock intake and a 650 cfm carb, hooker headers and msd ignition.

I looked @ the EPA regs and what I took from it is that no engine swap is technically legal unless for example it's a Chevy engine going into a Chevy vehicle of the same year or newer.

I don't plan on selling the truck and I'm not moving to Kaliphornia, Hellinois has gotten bad enough. I have a jetta if gas prices go crazy again.

If I don't like the 327 I'll find a 350 block that will bolt in and make a 383. Just find a 68 camero or chevelle roller to put the 327 in.

That sounds like a sweet build you have coming up. Just put a big block or a 6bt in your 60. Maybe a duramax or find a way to put a twin turbo on a 6bt? Let the Jones' keep up with you.
 
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I looked at a gearing calculator and I'll be @ 3200 rpm's @ 75 mph. If I run 38's with 4.88 gears. My speedometer will be wwaaaaayyy off but I'm looking @ autometer electronic gauges.

Donno what calc you are using, but mine says that your speedo will be almost exactly dead on..

http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

I looked @ the EPA regs and what I took from it is that no engine swap is technically legal unless for example it's a Chevy engine going into a Chevy vehicle of the same year or newer.


http://www.epa.gov/compliance/enforcement/air/documents/fuelwaivers/engswitch.pdf

Long and short of it. You must use a same year or newer motor that has all of the factory smog equipment on it. EPA specifically allows engine swaps. It is not difficult..
 
I used the wrong calculator. It assumed it kept the same gear ratio but switched tires.

What about people who put a 6bt's or 4bt's from bread trucks or big blocks into 60's doesn't that count as putting a heavy duty engine in a light duty vehicle? Wouldn't that be considered an illegal swap?

What's the difference if the engine is a carb'd small block from the 80's or a carb'd small block from the 60's? Neither engine have great emissions.
 
What about people who put a 6bt's or 4bt's from bread trucks or big blocks into 60's doesn't that count as putting a heavy duty engine in a light duty vehicle? Wouldn't that be considered an illegal swap?

Nope, both diesels are available in light duty trucks. (1 ton Dodges have the 6bt)


What's the difference if the engine is a carb'd small block from the 80's or a carb'd small block from the 60's? Neither engine have great emissions.

80's emissions standards are significantly stricter than 60's emissions.

http://www.epa.gov/greenvehicles/detailedchart.pdf

Carbed small blocks in the 80's were so weighted down with smog stuff that they were seriously limited. It was not till fuel injection came into it's own that engines could breathe again. I would seriously rethink your ideas of an engine swap if you are going to use a carbed 80's V8 for your swap. The emissions crap on them would almost all have to be replaced by now and would be a nightmare.

And even more importantly. It's against federal law.
 
Eh screw it. I'll just refresh the 2f soa it and then beat the hell out of it until dies. I'll save the 327 to put into a better 4x platform.

I really don't want EFI. I bought the 60 to get away from EFI and CEL's and doing emissions and blah blah blah.
 
I've had my truck for about two months. The shop in Little Rock that did the prepurchase inspection said it had a 1980 Chevy 305. I took it to my local shop in New Orleans today and they said it's actually a 1969 Chevy 327 engine block that could have God knows what in terms of mods. The prior owner said the odometer was tracking about 25% off actual the entire time he owned it.
 
327's can be great motors as long as smog is not required in your area.
 
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