305 sm465 np205 swap in fj40
- Thread starter 78fj40
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I had this setup in my old cruiser, only difference is I had a 350. It is a fairly straight forward swap. A few things to consider when you do it, engine placement is probably the most critical step. This is where everything lines up to. You have to make certain you have clearance for the dist in relation to the firewall. Also is the position of the engine to the radiator. Make sure you have room for a shroud.
I ended up measuring a million times before I welded in the motor mounts. I ended up using an old bare block I had to preposition everything before hand. Made things alot easier.
I used ram horns for exhaust manfolds, for ease of exhaust routing.
Used a crossmember from a Blazer, which I had to cut down and reweld, since the cruiser frame rails are narrower.
For the rear I used a V-6 rear from a 2nd generation 4 runner.
The only downfall is driveshafts, It was a PITA to have carry 3 different ujoints when wheeling. If I did it again I would have all chevy running gear.
The V-6 rear never gave me any problems, in fact i think it is stronger than a cruiser rear. I modified the landcruiser e brake cable to operate the drum brakes on the V-6 rear.
I ended up measuring a million times before I welded in the motor mounts. I ended up using an old bare block I had to preposition everything before hand. Made things alot easier.
I used ram horns for exhaust manfolds, for ease of exhaust routing.
Used a crossmember from a Blazer, which I had to cut down and reweld, since the cruiser frame rails are narrower.
For the rear I used a V-6 rear from a 2nd generation 4 runner.
The only downfall is driveshafts, It was a PITA to have carry 3 different ujoints when wheeling. If I did it again I would have all chevy running gear.
The V-6 rear never gave me any problems, in fact i think it is stronger than a cruiser rear. I modified the landcruiser e brake cable to operate the drum brakes on the V-6 rear.
Eskimo
SILVER Star
That's exactly my running gear... It is pretty straight forward, but little things like the slave cylinder mount will give ya fits.
I'm also using a stock Blazer crossmember, cutdown and braced...
My rear diff is a cruiser/minitruck hybrid.. centered cruiser 3rd, cruiser axle tubes (part of them sleeved over minitruck tubes), minitruck outers, with GM disc brakes.. no c-clips.
The driveshafts are easy... keep the toyota flange on the diffs, with the male end of the splines.. get the other end made to go to the NP205 u-joints, and you can carry a spare cruiser flange with slip yokes, for a 5 minute trail fix...
I'm running el-cheapo Summit blockhugger headers, with Saginaw steering.
Oh, better upgrade the radiator!
I'm also using a stock Blazer crossmember, cutdown and braced...
My rear diff is a cruiser/minitruck hybrid.. centered cruiser 3rd, cruiser axle tubes (part of them sleeved over minitruck tubes), minitruck outers, with GM disc brakes.. no c-clips.
The driveshafts are easy... keep the toyota flange on the diffs, with the male end of the splines.. get the other end made to go to the NP205 u-joints, and you can carry a spare cruiser flange with slip yokes, for a 5 minute trail fix...
I'm running el-cheapo Summit blockhugger headers, with Saginaw steering.
Oh, better upgrade the radiator!
